Getting a manual transmission back in after clutch change...

GSF1200S · #1 02-25-2018, 11:01 AM

I've done this job before on other cars without issue, but I'm having trouble with my Ranger.

Whoever owned it before me must have rested their foot on the clutch pedal when they drove as the throwout bearing started to click with clutch in. Whatever I needed to do the clutch slave anyways.

I pull it all out and replace: pilot bearing, flywheel/clutch/pressure plate (Luk brand), and the clutch slave (Motorcraft from dealer purchased ~2 years ago). Used a clutch alignment tool to align the clutch with the pilot bearing- slides in and out effortlessly, and passes the eye test for being centered as well.

Had to sideline the project due to work, but recently got time to finish it up. Go to put the transmission in and my main trouble is the damn concentric clutch slave. This design I understand is to put 7-9lbs of pressure on the throwout bearing at all times, but this makes getting the transmission in tough. The throwout bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers before the input shaft makes it to the clutch splines.

Is this how its supposed to be? I've watched youtube vids etc but none of them show through the viewport or explain in what order contact should be made. I'm certain the clutch is in right (flywheel side towards flywheel, centered, etc). But that clutch slave which has no fluid yet is new and stiff- any suggestions for loosening it up? Is there a way to keep the slave compressed until the trans is in and then release it through the viewport? I can't even get bolts to start (and I never use this method anyways).

Any advice?

vista4.0 · #2 02-26-2018, 08:29 AM

You are doing it right. It wont just slide in and mate up. You basically have to get it all lined up and get a nice even gap between the trans and the block. The gap is usually about .500" or so (been a minute since ive done my last one). Then I usually pull it in with the bolts and try to keep it as even as possible.

GSF1200S · #3 02-26-2018, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vista4.0

You are doing it right. It wont just slide in and mate up. You basically have to get it all lined up and get a nice even gap between the trans and the block. The gap is usually about .500" or so (been a minute since ive done my last one). Then I usually pull it in with the bolts and try to keep it as even as possible.

Thanks for replying. Can you confirm that in fact the throwout bearing makes contact with the pressure plate fingers first? I can't use your bolt trick because unfortunately they aren't long enough to get started. I could use longer bolts to start the process, but I wont until I know I'm going at this correctly.

This wouldn't be much of an issue if the slave wasn't so stiff at its full extended position. I have to compress the slave while trying to keep it lined up and then try to get the splines to line up. I don't know if my new slave is bad or what- it sort of "sticks" at the very end of its travel- its the non-critical part that doesn't actually seal off hydraulic fluid.

I'm thinking I may have to try a different slave.

GSF1200S · #4 02-26-2018, 04:08 PM

Whew... nvm, I got it.

i used a touch of wd40 on a rag to wipe the plastic where the slave boot rides back and forth. The idea was to let it slide easier (on many slaves there isn't even a boot here, so its non-critical anyways). This eliminated the stickiness at the end of the boots travel, and thus on the second try it popped into the splines.

I wiggled just a little bit and it slid right into the pilot bearing, and the bolts were only needed to secure it to the block (I grabbed the ratchet at the head while tightening to make sure i wasn't forcing anything).

Anyways, its in now so on to reassembling