I have the 92' Ford Ranger XLT with 2.9 V6 and auto locking hub 4WD.

I have been delaying repacking the front bearings for awhile. I'm not crazy about the auto locking hub setup since it uses the cam assembly with the locking key and spindle key way. I think this is a poor design.

Would I be able to covert to manual locking hub? Would it be expensive, complicated, or not? With the manual locking hub 4WD setup, it would eliminate the cam, locking key, and key way.

What parts would I need to do this?

On my 96 is was easy. I bought a set of mile marker hubs off ebay. You must replace the axel nut. If you switch the hubs and not the nuts it ruins the spindle. The axel nut kits are cheap. Kit is a part number 95-27997 or 95-27988 i think but double check and i believe you need a 428 hub. Off ebay like 140 for everything shipped and should not take more than an hour. This conversion was well worth it for me. Made my 4x4 much more reliable.

Hey Matthew,

I did some research on this. And I did see three primary manufacturers of the conversion kit including the Mile Marker brand. Can you answer a few questions for me?

1. So it looks like I wouldn't have to disassemble any further than the outer wheel bearing to perform the auto to manual conversion (unless I want to repack bearings)........correct?

2. Am I substituting the cam assembly and locking key with kit parts? Do I keep original adjusting nut?

3. Does the kit come with instructions?

4. What do you mean by 'axle nut?'

5. How did you learn about this? Can you recommend an online instruction or tutorial? Thanks Dave

I bought all mile marker and it worked well. I did this 7 years ago and still have the truck and have not had any issues. You take the nut off that goes on the spindle and replace it with the nut that comes in the kit. The original spindle nut which is what i was calling an axel nut it driven by the splines on the axel and the end pf the nut had 3 dogs that engaged the hub and locked it in. There was a little picture that showed what order to put the parts back on in. It was very easy. Worst part was getting a socket big enough to do the job. I replaced my bearings while i was at it becuase i was already in there and that was also easy. I did not replace the race just the bearing. Basically if i recall you remove the old nut and a couple thrush washers and replace them with new parts from the kit. After that the hubs slips back over the wheel studs just like the auto locker and your done. Also make sure you never drive around with 1 on and 1 off. Bad things can happen.

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As far as where i heard about the kit... When i bought the hubs it said you had to change those parts for the hubs to work. If you dont the new hubs will fit and work but it will destroy your spindles. Let me tell you how i know that. I had to buy the hubs 2 times. I also had to replace my spubdles. I read the directions the second time but not the first.

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Matthew Vogt
96 Mazda B4000
4.0 4x4

If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy

What about the electronic control module and the electric shift motor (near transfer case underneath) both leftover from the old auto locking hub set up. Do you disconnect electricity from those parts or pull fuses?

my vehicle the hub's do not shift using electricity. The transfer case shift using electricity. You still use the knob on the dash to put it in 4-wheel drive you just have to lock the hubs in from the outside. I assume that's what you're talking about.

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Matthew Vogt
96 Mazda B4000
4.0 4x4

If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy

I'm not sure I am understanding. My current auto locking hub 4WD on my 92' Ranger is called 'touch drive' I press a button on the dashboard which then turns on the electric shift motor underneath. The shift motor engages the auto locking hub into 4WD.

If I do the manual locking hub conversion, then I am all done with the touch drive button control and the electric shift motor..............correct? I don't still need an additional control inside the truck do I?

It won't shift your hubs but will still shift the transfer case...

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2011 Toyota Tundra 5.7 DC 4x4
Ranger free since 4/14/14
1972 bmw 2002tii
1974 Kawasaki mc1m 90

I think I understand now. I still need a functioning pushbutton control and an electric shift motor in addition to the manual locking hub kit.

And actually both the touch drive button control in the cab and the electric shift motor could both be broken.

It would be too expensive to do all of this. I guess I can't do this then.

The main reason I wanted to do this was to get rid of the locking key and keyway setup to avoid any disassembly problems when repacking bearings. Heck, I guess it would make more sense to convert to straight 2WD if that can be done. It would nice to have 4WD. But I don't really need it.

Correct what will happen is the button on the dash will still run the small motor that is attached to you transfercase.

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What makes you think its broken. I will tell you there is a little plug on the shift motor that gets goobed up. I had to pull and clean mine with qe cleaner once. Packed it with dielectric grease and it fixed it right up. Also depending on where you are in us look up the pull a part. Parts are cheap but you have to pull them yourself.

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Matthew Vogt
96 Mazda B4000
4.0 4x4

If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy

Ok Matt. I'll check that electric shift motor plug underneath. If I remember correctly, I don't think the indicator lights illuminate on the pushbutton control. It's been years since I checked.

I was reading on line and I saw a Ford truck from the 1960's that employed the locking key way hub design.

I also wanted to send a diagram of my auto locking hub and wheel bearing set up. Should I attach it to this discussion? Or should I send it via private message/email?

Attach it here.

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Matthew Vogt
96 Mazda B4000
4.0 4x4

If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy

Ok. I found a wire connector on the electric shift motor underneath. It looked clean. But I applied dielectric grease anyway. I did see a dirty, greasy speedometer cable/sensor type gadget. Is that the 'gooey' thing you're referring too. Is is electric?

Here is my thinking. The manual locking hub will still work in 2WD. So it might be worth purchasing the manual locking hubs and kit just to be rid of the cam/lock/key way deal.

I pasted the diagram below of my current auto locking hub. Do you remember what parts you eliminated when you converted to manual hub? I know you have a 96.' But your's might be the same or similar to mine.

If i recall its everything from cam assembly out.

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Matthew Vogt
96 Mazda B4000
4.0 4x4

If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy

from cam assembly out...................that's what I thought

The pushbutton control indicator light doesn't illuminate. Checked fuse and it's ok.

I'm tempted to buy those conversion parts. Would you in my case?