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  #1  
Old 05-28-2016, 12:06 PM
dangerranger01NJ dangerranger01NJ is offline
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Default rear pinion seal changed, anyone know the torque specs?

So I just changed the pinion seal on the rear of my 06 fx4, 8.8 axle code R7 and I tightened the nut that holds the yoke on and now the rear will not spin freely, does anyone know the torque spec on it? Also with the trak-lok posi would 80w90 be okay or should I put friction modifier in also, the factory manual says 80w90 unless it's a level II which it is not.
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Old 05-28-2016, 12:43 PM
Jimmyspy Jimmyspy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerranger01NJ View Post
So I just changed the pinion seal on the rear of my 06 fx4, 8.8 axle code R7 and I tightened the nut that holds the yoke on and now the rear will not spin freely, does anyone know the torque spec on it? Also with the trak-lok posi would 80w90 be okay or should I put friction modifier in also, the factory manual says 80w90 unless it's a level II which it is not.

There is a torque spec, but I believe it's for when the pinion is unloaded (I.e. The diff/fluid/ring gear not installed)

You needed to carefully mark the location of the nut before removal and count how many turns it took to take it off. Then, return the nut to exactly the same position when you reinstall it to avoid damaging the crush sleeve. If you didn't do that, I'm not sure how to correct it without tearing the axle down. Hopefully somebody will chime in with some ideas on that.

As far as friction modifier, the trak-lok is a clutch style limited slip, so it will need a friction additive.
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  #3  
Old 05-28-2016, 12:48 PM
dangerranger01NJ dangerranger01NJ is offline
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Yea I marked the nut and put it back in the same place the Haynes manual says 15-30 ft lbs but that's in the "axle removal and installation" section
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maxed out torsion keys, Add a Leaf, 3" higher then stock, LT265/75R16 BF Goodrich all terrain KO2s on 16x8 Black Rock 997 Type 8 Wheels, 15% front windows, 5% back windows. Cobra 40 Channel CB and a 3' Firestik II, 3157 Pilot LED backup light bulbs and 2 KC Dayligher 100 Watt lights
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Old 05-28-2016, 12:52 PM
Jimmyspy Jimmyspy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerranger01NJ View Post
Yea I marked the nut and put it back in the same place the Haynes manual says 15-30 ft lbs but that's in the "axle removal and installation" section

As long as the nut is in the same location after the same number of turns, your fine.
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  #5  
Old 05-28-2016, 12:55 PM
dangerranger01NJ dangerranger01NJ is offline
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Should I be able to spin the axle shafts pretty easily? Because when I tightened it to where it was now it's pretty hard to turn by hand, it's not locked up or anything but there's a little more resistance
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maxed out torsion keys, Add a Leaf, 3" higher then stock, LT265/75R16 BF Goodrich all terrain KO2s on 16x8 Black Rock 997 Type 8 Wheels, 15% front windows, 5% back windows. Cobra 40 Channel CB and a 3' Firestik II, 3157 Pilot LED backup light bulbs and 2 KC Dayligher 100 Watt lights
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Old 05-28-2016, 05:04 PM
Jimmyspy Jimmyspy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerranger01NJ View Post
Should I be able to spin the axle shafts pretty easily? Because when I tightened it to where it was now it's pretty hard to turn by hand, it's not locked up or anything but there's a little more resistance
It should have some resistance to it. (Assuming wheels are off the ground).


As long as the nut is in the same location, it should have the same amount of torque on it, and it should be putting the correct amount of pre-load on the pinion bearing (this is the important part)
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Old 05-28-2016, 05:35 PM
dangerranger01NJ dangerranger01NJ is offline
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Okay, so now I think the pinion bearing may be bad, almost 180,000 miles on it because now slowing down around 20-25 mph I hear a sound best described as "oversized tires rubbing the mudflaps" not at high speed, there's not really any humming while driving. Just at that point while slowing down. Could that be something with the rear brakes? I pulled the drums off and everything looked fine
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2006 Ford Ranger FX4 Off Road
maxed out torsion keys, Add a Leaf, 3" higher then stock, LT265/75R16 BF Goodrich all terrain KO2s on 16x8 Black Rock 997 Type 8 Wheels, 15% front windows, 5% back windows. Cobra 40 Channel CB and a 3' Firestik II, 3157 Pilot LED backup light bulbs and 2 KC Dayligher 100 Watt lights
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  #8  
Old 05-28-2016, 05:40 PM
transman304 transman304 is offline
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Default Re: rear pinion seal changed, anyone know the torque specs?

That's why your pinion seal was leaking. Failing bearing is the cause 80% of the time.
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  #9  
Old 05-28-2016, 05:45 PM
Jimmyspy Jimmyspy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerranger01NJ View Post
Okay, so now I think the pinion bearing may be bad, almost 180,000 miles on it because now slowing down around 20-25 mph I hear a sound best described as "oversized tires rubbing the mudflaps" not at high speed, there's not really any humming while driving. Just at that point while slowing down. Could that be something with the rear brakes? I pulled the drums off and everything looked fine
Is there any play in the pinion shaft?

A bearing could make that type of noise, but so could a lot of other things.
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Superlifted
33x12.5 Duratracs

1995 Ford Ranger STX 4x4 ext. cab 4.0l v6 SOLD
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  #10  
Old 05-28-2016, 06:12 PM
dangerranger01NJ dangerranger01NJ is offline
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No with the driveshaft on and everything tight where it should be there is very very minimal play pushing up and down (where the U joint meets the yoke) and it doesn't move forward or backwards at all. One of these days when I get some time I'll have to pull everything out (the seal leaks anyway I just found out) and check the bearing and the sleeve and whatnot.
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2006 Ford Ranger FX4 Off Road
maxed out torsion keys, Add a Leaf, 3" higher then stock, LT265/75R16 BF Goodrich all terrain KO2s on 16x8 Black Rock 997 Type 8 Wheels, 15% front windows, 5% back windows. Cobra 40 Channel CB and a 3' Firestik II, 3157 Pilot LED backup light bulbs and 2 KC Dayligher 100 Watt lights
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  #11  
Old 05-28-2016, 06:37 PM
Jimmyspy Jimmyspy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerranger01NJ View Post
No with the driveshaft on and everything tight where it should be there is very very minimal play pushing up and down (where the U joint meets the yoke) and it doesn't move forward or backwards at all. One of these days when I get some time I'll have to pull everything out (the seal leaks anyway I just found out) and check the bearing and the sleeve and whatnot.
Is there play in the ujoint? That could cause noise as well


Yea, sometimes it takes a few try's to get a seal that won't leak. It's really easy to damage the seal when installing it.
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Superlifted
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1995 Ford Ranger STX 4x4 ext. cab 4.0l v6 SOLD
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  #12  
Old 05-29-2016, 08:15 AM
dangerranger01NJ dangerranger01NJ is offline
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I got a new seal and I'm gonna make sure to scrape all the old sealant off this time, also I'll shine a light in there and just see if I can check the crush sleeve and stuff I also picked up some valvoline 80w90 with friction modifier
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maxed out torsion keys, Add a Leaf, 3" higher then stock, LT265/75R16 BF Goodrich all terrain KO2s on 16x8 Black Rock 997 Type 8 Wheels, 15% front windows, 5% back windows. Cobra 40 Channel CB and a 3' Firestik II, 3157 Pilot LED backup light bulbs and 2 KC Dayligher 100 Watt lights
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