i've got a 94 ranger with 710,000 miles,i've replaced the clutch,throw out bearing and slave or any combination 5-6 times in the last 8-10 months,last week after putting in a perfect reman 5 speed tranny,with new clutch,slave and throwout,it seized on me and i couldn't go from 4th to 2nd or first,i had to muscle it into 3rd and when i got into a parking lot ,i tried reverse and kinda forced it into it,and with the clutch pedal pushed all the way in,it went into reverse and bucked and killed,like the clutch wasn't fully disengaging,the master,fliud reservoir,and both lines to clutch master and clutch master to slave are pretty new,anybody got any ideas as to what the hell is going on,i've changed everything too many times,the dealer is stumped,so i thought i'd try outside help,would love to finally be able to get this fixed,any help would be greatly appreciated......thanks

Im going to say it for the rest of us. We need a picture of the Odometer...wow 710,000 miles???

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1998 Ford Ranger

147,000 on chassis, 50,000 on engine.
3.0 v6 5 speed 4x4...4x4 don't work lol

What I hope to do- Paint wheels, new head unit, exhaust, fix four wheel drive.

trucks in the shop,however i'll try to get a pic,in the meantime,can i have some help with my prob.....

i would take it back wherever you got the reman trans from, and bitch and tell them to fix it.

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1998 Ford Ranger

147,000 on chassis, 50,000 on engine.
3.0 v6 5 speed 4x4...4x4 don't work lol

What I hope to do- Paint wheels, new head unit, exhaust, fix four wheel drive.

it's not the trans,after the truck cooled off abit we could shift it with no prob,it's in the clutch-throw out assy somewhere,i've had this prob too long and have bought replacement parts from 3 diff parts houses,with the same results,the clutch pedal goes kinda mushy and i cannot shift.....

Sounds like the slave or master cylinder is shot. With that many miles, I would just replace both and be done with it.

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Sgtsandman's Work in Progress
2011 Ranger XLT, 4X4, 4 door Super Cab. 4.0L, 5 Speed M50D-R1HD, 3.73:1, 8.8" open differential, Jason Pace cap
2019 Ford Ranger STX FX4, Super Crew, 2.3L Ecoboost, 10 speed automatic, 3.73:1 with rear locker, Leer 100XR cap

Is there an an adjustment that can be made between the clutch cable and pressure plate? Maybe the cable is stretched and isn't letting it release? Heck maybe the fork at the end of your clutch pedal is bent after 700,000 miles?

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08 4.0 Sport 4x4
Stock

the clutch,pressure plate and slave and throwout bearing ARE brand new,only 5 weeks old,there is no clutch cable as the system is hydraulic,and there is no clutch fork,the slave is just a big piston in a cylinder with the throw-out bearing fitted over the end of it...........

Not talking about the shift fork just the pedal. Is the clutch pedal itself actually deformed or bent? Just a wild guess. I thought that clutch pedals can be adjusted or am I nuts?

Another wild geuss is that the parking brake could be partially engaged.

Also isn't there a system that inhibits the engagement of the shifter when the engine speed and rear end speed are out of a certain range? Maybe the sensor or the actuator for that function aren't working.

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08 4.0 Sport 4x4
Stock

the clutch pedal is not bent and to my knowledge there's no adjustment,parking brake wouldn't matter as the problem is 100% in the clutch or throw-out bearing,after only 3-5 000 miles it's already not working right,like it was worn out already,this is a re-occurring problem i'm having,if you read my first post,i have replaced the clutch and slave cyl and throw-out bearing assy about 4-5 times in the last 10-11 months,like the manufactorer has gone to cheaper materials that are not holding up,the only sensor i have that your talking about,is the one that will only allow the truck to be started up when the clutch pedal is pushed in,wether it's in gear or neutral,a kind of safety switch,so it can't be started in gear and immed started moving.......

Here is a link for you to check out. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/90...l-bracket.html
My pedals seemed a bit loose, and I saw that the rod that the pedals pivot on had a lot of slop. I just ordered a new bracket that includes both brake and clutch pedals for $66 shipped from www.tituswillfordparts.com
Cheaper than the $99 the guy in the other Ford forum paid.
Good luck, and let us know what you find.

Bob: My '93 has only 330,000 miles on it and have experienced similar cluth problems. Today I pulled the trans for the third time - the second for clutch problems. The first time it was acting similar to what you discribe. I was researching and found an interesting article at

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

titled Clutch fluid breakdown causes problems.

The point is that clutch dust and moisture infiltrate the fluid and cause slave cylinder failure. When you changed your slave cylinder - did you bleed enough to completely change the fluid? I didn't have to and I think it may have caused the second failure. My truck in in pieces in my driveway right now. I plan on a complete hydrolic purge prior to attaching the new slave cylinder. I'll post the result when I finish the job on Monday.

I promised a follow up post so here it is.

I found a post at http://www.trustmymechanic.com/forum...&view=previous that contained Ford bulletin #93-12-19. (copied below)

I modified the on vehicle procedure slightly. My master cylinder is an original and the Reservoir connection is on the firewall end so air will rise out of it - unlike the MC illustrations I have seen on most posts, diagrams and videos. I pulled the plastic section of the line out side the frame and attached the old slave cylinder (so as not to introduce contaminated fluid into the new unit) and laid it on top of the left front tire. I flushed the system using a normal bleeding "down - open - close - up" sequence until I ran 4 reservoirs of fluid through it. During this process I made sure that all the molded bends were stretched or positioned so any air would not be trapped. The molded bends in my line made three potential air locks, so this is an important point.

The new slave cylinder had air in it – so bleeding it like this is easier than after assembly.

If you have a MC with the reservoir connection on the low end, you have no option but to remove it and do a bench bleed sequense.

The clutch kit I purchased was from Perfection. Here is a link to their training video on this issue.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?=HgNTDG...ayer_embedded#!

When I put my truck on the ground, the clutch worked perfectly - engaging at about the half-way point of the pedle travel.

I hope that by now you have solved your problems. Maybe this post will help others.


Ford bulletin #93-12-19

ISSUE:
A "soft" unresponsive clutch pedal may be felt or the driver may be unable to release the clutch. This is caused by air entrapped in the clutch hydraulic system.

ACTION:
Use the information in this TSB article in addition to the bleed procedure specified in the 1993 Service Manual. This article includes detail as well as extra service tips for easier hydraulic clutch bleeding.

The clutch hydraulic system for the 1993 model year is new and more difficult to bleed than the previous hydraulic system. Therefore, a different bleeding procedure is required for these vehicles.


RANGER, EXPLORER, AEROSTAR

The most difficult systems to bleed are on the Rangers, Explorers and Aerostars. Follow the bleed procedure as outlined in the 1993 Service Manual, This procedure with the addition of the bench bleed process is included in this TSB article.

NOTE: WHEN INSTALLING DRY CLUTCH CYLINDER OR TUBE SERVICE PARTS, DO THE BENCH BLEED PROCEDURE FIRST.




BENCH BLEED

The compact vehicles are more difficult to bleed because the downward angle of the master cylinder makes it difficult for air to escape up into the reservoir. Therefore, if the master cylinder is removed from the vehicle and bled while held in a vertical orientation (a bench bleed) air can escape much more efficiently.

BENCH BLEEDING PROCEDURE (CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER)


1. Remove master cylinder, line and reservoir from vehicle and assemble with replacement parts required based on initial concern.
2. Hold the master cylinder vertically with the reservoir feed hose in the highest position on the body,
3. Fill the reservoir and extend above the master cylinder and assure the quick connect on the clutch line is below the master cylinder. (Lightly clamp reservoir in a vice).
4. Using a small screwdriver, depress the internal mechanism of the male quick connect coupling to open the valve,
5. Stroke and hold master cylinder pushrod.
6. Close quick connect valve.
7. Release master cylinder pushrod.
8. Fill reservoir.
Repeat Steps 4 through 8 four more times.
9. With the master cylinder still being held with the outlet tube and reservoir feed tube ends high, quick connect closed and the reservoir full, proceed as follows:
10. Push the pushrod into the body several times quickly to expel any remaining air.
If it is a remote reservoir, pinch the supply hose with your fingers two or three times to help move air into reservoir.
When the movement of the pushrod is .160" (4mm) or less when stroked in Step 10, reinstall the master cylinder into the vehicle and couple it to the slave cylinder.

ON VEHICLE BLEED PROCEDURE, CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER

Under normal conditions, disconnecting the clutch coupling will not introduce air into the system. However, if there appears to be air in the system (spongy pedal or insufficient bearing travel), the system must be bled. The following procedure is used with the hydraulic system installed on the vehicle.


1. Disconnect the coupling at the transmission with a coupling disconnect tool (T88T70522A) or equivalent by sliding the white plastic sleeve toward the slave cylinder while applying a slight tug on the clutch tube.
2. Clean dirt and grease from around the reservoir cap.
3. Remove cap and diaphragm and fill reservoir to the step with Heavy Duty Brake Fluid (C6AZ-19542-AA or BA) (ESA-M6C25-A) or equivalent.
CAUTION: BRAKE FLUID MUST BE CERTIFIED TO DOT 3 SPECIFICATION.



4. By hand, apply 10-15 lbs. to clutch pedal.
If pedal is hard (.25-.50 "movement), skip to Step 9.
If pedal is spongy, proceed to the next step.
5. Using a small screwdriver....
Depress the internal mechanism of the male coupling to open the valve.
6. While continuing to hold the valve open, slowly depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold.
7. Remove the screwdriver from the coupling, closing the valve.
8. Release the clutch pedal.
9. Refill the reservoir to level at step.
NOTE: THE RESERVOIR MUST BE KEPT FULL AT ALL TIMES TO ENSURE THAT THERE WILL BE NO ADDITIONAL INTRODUCTION OF AIR INTO THE SYSTEM.



Repeat Steps 4 through 7.
Install cap on reservoir.
Reconnect the coupling to the slave cylinder.
Check that the connection is secure by applying a slight tug to the clutch tube.
Stroke the clutch pedal as rapidly as possible for five to ten strokes.
Wait one to three minutes.
Repeat Steps 10 and 11 three more times.
Loosen the bleed screw which is located in the slave cylinder body next to the inlet connection.
Depress and hold the clutch pedal while tightening the bleed screw 3-5 N-m (2.2-3.7 lb-ft).
Refill the reservoir to level at step.
The hydraulic system should now be fully bled and should release the clutch. Check the clutch reserve per the instruction in the 1993 Service Manual, Section 08-00.

F-SERIES, BRONCO

Since full size vehicles have master cylinders which are mounted in a level attitude, they bleed more efficiently than do compact vehicles. However, some difficulties may still be encountered if the new procedure is not used.


VEHICLES WITH CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDERS

The procedure given in the Service Manual on page 08-00-9 is incorrect. Use the same bleed procedure as specified for the compact vehicles which is included in this article. The optional bench bleed procedure may be used, but is probably not necessary.


VEHICLES WITH EXTERNAL SLAVE CYLINDERS

The procedure in the 1993 Service Manual should be modified as follows:

Do not use the Alternate Method.
After Step 7 and before Step 8, do the following...
Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission.
Holding the cylinder so that the port for the tube is at the highest point, slowly push the pushrod into the cylinder and slowly let it return. Be sure the reservoir is full of fluid beforehand. Repeat this step two more times.
Reattach the slave cylinder to the transmission.
Rapidly depress the clutch pedal 10 times through a travel of about 1" (25.4mm).
If the pedal is not hard within .25" (6.35mm) to .5" (12.7mm) of travel, repeat Step d.

in all the posts I see no mention of the pilot bearing......has that been replaced, or even checked.....