I am still having a shifting problem with my 4r44e transmission that is driving me nuts. Just wondering what symptoms other people have had when there valve body gasket was blown?.

Just trying to determine if that will be my next move.

Just about any transmission made before 2003 is a suspect for this issue. Unless previous work was done, you won't have the upgraded separator plate with the bonded gaskets.I would argue that it's worth replacing just for that, even if you can't confirm it's blown.

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2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2.3L I4 Duratec DOHC, 5R44E 5-speed auto, RWD, 7.5" Open w/ 4.10 Ratio, Gibson split-rear catback
Sonic Blue Pearl with dark gray trim

That is exactly what I was thinking. I am kind of mad that I took it to a transmission shop and they dropped the pan and only put a new filter in. Now I have to tear it down and take the valve body out. Not sure why they didn't do the updates while they were in there.

Did you ask about any other repairs or authorize any other work to be done?

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Brad
Morgantown WV
Like us on Facebook @"Otto Matics"

No that was my fault. I thought they would check the TSB on the transmission but I guess I should never assume anything.

Did you try swapping out the vss sensor? Does your speedometer work? Abs light?

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

You can pick up the updated separator plate with bonded gaskets at any local Ford dealer. The price will come out to about $50 though. You'll also need at least a gallon and a half of transmission fluid to recover the losses. My recommendation is Valvoline maxlife Dex/Merc. It meets/exceeds the Mercon V specs, and you can pick it up by the gallon at Walmart for cheap. Grab a new pan gasket and filter from a local auto parts store too, and you shouldn't have any trouble doing the whole job yourself.

Just keep in mind that you'll also need an in-lb. torque wrench, and an adapter for a T-30 torx bit. If the gasket did indeed blow, you'll need a good light source and the will to hunt for every last piece of it in both the valve body and the case. You don't want chunks of that getting stuck anywhere.

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2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2.3L I4 Duratec DOHC, 5R44E 5-speed auto, RWD, 7.5" Open w/ 4.10 Ratio, Gibson split-rear catback
Sonic Blue Pearl with dark gray trim

The symptoms will probeby be different depending on where the gasket blows. My 2000 was last making the first shift, and it was rough when it did, and the second shift was almost none exsistant. The od light would flash, top gasket was blown in 3 places, one on the left front, another on the left side, and by the rev servo. New gaskets and filter, it shifts great now.

That is the strange thing about it. I do not get any over drive light flashes.

VSS was checked and I was told it was good. I don't have a abs light on and speedometer works just fine.

One of the transmission shops I talked to said it was not the gasket or I would not have reverse. But I agree that depends on where the gasket might have blown out at.

Yes I think I will get a new bonded gasket and put it in. Just a shame after a total fluid flush of 20 quarts that now I have to waste 5 quarts or so dropping the pan again.

Do you guys think I could reuse the pan gasket being it has only been on for two weeks?.

is it cork or cut rubber?

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2021 F150 5.0 Screw

Past:18 F150 2.7, 16 F150 5.0, 14 F150 5.0, 07 F150 5.4, 03 Ranger 4.0

Master Certified Ford Parts / Warranty Admin

I understand that if the vb gasket is blown you will get no engine braking in first gear. I have a '99 3.0 auto that shifts strange in the higher gears, but it does have engine braking in first. I'm no fan of this transmission.

In all fairness, Ford's bonded separator plate update fixed this issue to death. I've never heard of anyone ever having a problem with it. I'm sure it happens from time to time, but it's certainly not common anymore. That plate is a truly magical fix. Now if they would've just come up with it a decade or two earlier, that would have been even better…

And the reason that gasket blows is because the valve body bolts lose their torque overtime, backing out ever so slightly. It totally depends on which bolts loosen, and how the vehicle is driven afterward. The gasket could've just recently blown, so you might have caught it before the full list of symptoms will show up. There's just no way to know for sure without dropping the valve body and checking.

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2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2.3L I4 Duratec DOHC, 5R44E 5-speed auto, RWD, 7.5" Open w/ 4.10 Ratio, Gibson split-rear catback
Sonic Blue Pearl with dark gray trim

That was a great explanation. It just started doing it at Christmas so I bet you are right and it just blew out.

Can you get the bonded gasket anywhere else but Ford?. Or can they be ordered online from Ford?.

Anyone have a part number for it?

I went to ford to get the bonded plate with the gaskets, parts guy said only way to get it was with a new valve body, but he did have the separate gaskets.

The part number is 1L57*7Z490*AA. I just picked it up from my local Ford dealer for $45.

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2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2.3L I4 Duratec DOHC, 5R44E 5-speed auto, RWD, 7.5" Open w/ 4.10 Ratio, Gibson split-rear catback
Sonic Blue Pearl with dark gray trim