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01-29-2015, 02:13 PM
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The Projectionator
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 861
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Torque converter diagnosis & compatibility
I've identified possible internal torque converter damage on my '03 2.3L's 5R44E auto. There were metal chunks hidden in the geartrain, specifically jammed into the overdrive ring gear and chilling on top of the valve body. However, none were in the fluid pan. Upon complete disassembly, I found some burnt-up clutches and some wear marks on a gear or two, but nothing significant. Nothing is chipped, and all looks to be OK. None of the bearings are in pieces, and all seems well.
Since I can't find anything in the transmission itself that could produce these chunks, I can only assume that it's from the converter itself. Other than cutting it apart and inspecting it myself, is there any other way to verify this? I preemptively purchased a remanufactured converter anyway, but I'd like to confirm the source of those metal shavings before moving forward with this rebuild.
On the note of that reman. converter, it's an Alliance F57 that I bought from RockAuto. It's listed as a compatible part, but I can't find any information on it. A quick search led to some conflicting information, and now I'm confused. An eBay seller was offering a Daaco F57 for sale, but emphasized that it's for a 4.0 auto only, and will not work with anything else. However, the specs on RockAuto said it's for a 4R44E or 5R44E. The 4.0 only uses a 55. I know for sure I have a 44 since the two rear planets only had four pinions each instead of six. So did I buy the right converter? Visually, it looks exactly the same. But internally, I have no way of knowing.
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2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2.3L I4 Duratec DOHC, 5R44E 5-speed auto, RWD, 7.5" Open w/ 4.10 Ratio, Gibson split-rear catback
Sonic Blue Pearl with dark gray trim
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01-30-2015, 04:26 AM
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Buy a Ford
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 194
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Re: Torque converter diagnosis & compatibility
97HFB, 97HFC, AF, BAA, BAB 4.0 codes
7BA, AA, BA, BFA, CA, CFA, DA, EA, FA, HCA 3.0 and 2.3 codes
Also you can tell by the fin angle on the covers The low stall is for the 4.0 and the fins are straight. The high stall fins are at an angle. This is for the 3.0 & 2.3. Best to use code from original converter. Also check all the pinions in OD planet for end play and side to side movement. They will spit out washers/shims and leave metal like you are seeing.
125538[/ATTACH]
125539[/ATTACH]
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Brad
Morgantown WV
Like us on Facebook @"Otto Matics"
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02-01-2015, 04:04 PM
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The Projectionator
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 861
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Re: Torque converter diagnosis & compatibility
Sir, go buy yourself a cookie. PM me a copy of the receipt and a paypal address, and I will pay you back for it.
That's some mighty useful information there. I took a look at the converter RockAuto sent, and the fins are at an angle (I came so close to typing "angles are at a fin…). Once again, RockAuto's catalog proves to be slightly confusing, but ultimately correct. As far as I can tell, they're all "F57" converters, just with different codes at the end. This one didn't have that, but since it does have the angled fins indicative of high-stall, I think it's safe to assume it's correct.
My manual did mention checking the OD planet pinions, but I haven't done it yet because I suck. I'll check that out before putting everything back together.
Thanks again for the info!
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2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2.3L I4 Duratec DOHC, 5R44E 5-speed auto, RWD, 7.5" Open w/ 4.10 Ratio, Gibson split-rear catback
Sonic Blue Pearl with dark gray trim
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Tags
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converter, rockauto, f57, information, torque, auto, gear, 5r44e, chunks, metal, buy, compatible, led, conflicting, search, quick, visually, reman, note, rebuild, forward, knowing, alliance, internally, listed |
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