Seen this on another forum and I am very skeptical of "Waterless" wash and wax systems. I just dont foresee me rubbing on a dirty vehicle without water to rinse it away for the most part.

Supposedly, you just take this stuff and spray it on, wipe it to a haze, then buff it to a shine. It's supposed to remove oxidization and works on any non-porous surface.

European Waterless Wax | Car Detailing Wax | Motorcycle Wax | Fukken Wax Canada



I think that I could use it, but ONLY as a wax after the truck has been hand washed with WATER.

maybe someone could explain to me how a waterless wash system works and I could understand more. But i just dont see how it doesnt scratch paint rubbing non rinsed dirt particles around.

has anyone tried this particular wax?

__________________

I never saw it. Even with all the products I used in my detailing company. But I can tell you any kind of spray on wash or wipe off wax isn't worth it. It may last for a day but people don't realize wax is more for protection, not just to make it shine. I would steer clear from stuff like that, it may cause clear coat scratches, looking like spider webs etc. Even if you did wash it first and used that, there may still be particles bonded to the paint that may come off and cause scratching. Best bet is clay bar or compound then apply wax (I prefer pastes applied with an orbital buffer).

I already have plenty of spider webs across my paint . It needs a good bufing

__________________

Yea I use spray wax on my truck every wash and after about ~4 washes I'll actually wax it. My truck gets washed like once a week so spray wax is good enough for me between washes.

__________________
Mods: Xcal 2, K&N Drop-In, Line-X, DSG Heads/Corners, 6000k Hi/Low HID's, 6K HID Fogs, Foglight Mod, Throttle Cable Mod, 6.5" Digital Designs, Rockford P400.4, 2 Sundown SA-15's, MB Quart DSC 2000.1d, Cranked T-Bars, 285/75/R16 Nitto Terra Grapplers

don't be afraid of waterless washes or even rinseless washes. You obviously can't clean mud or tar or anything like that with them, but for a clean up a couple times a week when your truck is clean they work perfect (even after i rains and such...). Much better then a quick detailing spray used to clean your truck. Look into ONR (optimum no rinse) or Freedom Waterless Wash, but are great products I use in some applications.

Rafal

__________________

lol, i dont use anything one the truck until its been washed. no rubbing allowed

__________________

i like the name of the stuff tho. Europeans always get the cool stuff.

__________________
1997 Ranger XLT
4.0 4X4
Grille Guard with Hellas, Alpine/Kicker Sound System, FX4 Level 2 Alcoa's, Level 2 Black Style Dash, Custom Painted Grill, OHC, 2006+ Mirrors, FX4 Cluster, Tinted Windows, 2006+ Tails, Belltech 6400 shackels, Buggman LED's everywhere, PIAA Headlights, High Powered Back-Up Lights, Custom Tailgate, Mustang Dome light.

That's what I mean. After every wash I use spray wax and then like every 4-5 washes I really wax it. And about every 4-6 months I clay-bar, wax, and buff.

__________________
Mods: Xcal 2, K&N Drop-In, Line-X, DSG Heads/Corners, 6000k Hi/Low HID's, 6K HID Fogs, Foglight Mod, Throttle Cable Mod, 6.5" Digital Designs, Rockford P400.4, 2 Sundown SA-15's, MB Quart DSC 2000.1d, Cranked T-Bars, 285/75/R16 Nitto Terra Grapplers

Same here Tyler! when I do the clayying and stuff, i do the Meguiars 3-Step process. Paint Cleaner, Paint polish, and NXT Wax. Seems to make the paint pop

__________________

hey dixie, try this next time.... do what you normally do, before adding the NXT get yourself some Mge's #7 glaze and put 2 coats of it on, then add 2 coats of the NXT. It will really make your red pop that much more, as it will warm up the color before you add the NXT which often lacks warmth. Now the glaze isn't a wax so you don't apply, leave it on, and remove... what you want to do is apply over the entire car, and when you are done applying, start removing in the same order of panels as you applied (if you started on the hood, then bumper, and worked clockwise on your truck, then start removing with your hood, bumper, etc...)

Let me see if I Can dig up some pics of comparison on a red car....

Rafal

__________________

Ok, these are NOT pictures take by myself, but show a great example:

Waxed with carnauba wax (equivalent of adding the glaze to your NXT:

(notice the the paint is "richer" and "wetter" looking)

Used just NXT:

(notice how much shinnier the paint is, but kind of lacks the depths and richness of the above image)

*before anyone starts an argument about the pics above, yes they were taken at different time, with different lighting, but the difference in paint condition remains the same.

Rafal

__________________

Thanks man! But I don't even know where to get stuff like that! O'reilly's?

__________________

here's what the bottle looks like:


I see them at all auto parts places (Autozone, O'Reilly's, NAPA, etc.)
ADS has the bottle for $9.99 if you want to order online

__________________

Also keep in mind, most people will not see the difference between the 2, or a whole lot difference, so it's really up to you. I guess the best way to compare would be try it yourself. Do what you normally do and try to take the best picture you can, next time try the other way, and try to take the pic around the same time, same place, etc. and compare. You might have to do 3 coats of each product to have a noticeable difference. Also, lighter colors (white, silver) lack depth and richness as it is, so doing this will not make as a big of a difference as say that red Integra, or a black truck.

__________________

avendor is a member of my dodge ram forum sitegot mine ordered

__________________
2001 4.0l SOHC Ranger EDGE 2wd,Kenwood head unit,.Towing package, Cobra radar dector,Straight pipes, Black UWS Low Profile Tool Box,Air box mod,Throttle cable mod,Maxed T-Bars, Light Bar,



1964 Chevy C10 inline 6 granny 4 (play toy) painted in bedliner