Sup Fellas!

I know it's been a while since i've posted anything about my work in progress of a system but, considering now that i'm actually making some progress i'd get back to ya'll.

Last time you heard from me i wired up 4 component speakers (2 6s, an 2 6x8s) along with an amplifier; Infinity's Reference Series 475a. As far as i know i'm putting ~75 watts into each of the 4 ohm speakers. I know i should be able to get ~90 into each if i bridged the channels but, i haven't gotten that far yet.

As of now, i have a sealed dual .88 cubic in. box with Alpine's SWR-12D2 (1k rms rated but, have been told they will reach higher without any strain) sitting in it wired up at 2 ohms ready for my mono block amplifier (yet again another Alpine.) MRX-M240 2,400 watts at 2 ohms.

The subs an amplifier are in my room as i have came up with several problems that i have not been able to look up exactly. That's where ya'll come in. This forum has yet to let me down an always seems to be extremely helpful.

I've been told by my local automotive audio installer that even though it says that on the box they never actually reach that. (felt as if he was tryin to play me like some fool) Now, i do understand that most the time they don't but he was tellin me that my amplifier would only reach aprox. 1k rms. guess i'm askin is if any of you would happen to know if these actually reach at least close to what they say, so i don't sound like a complete idiot when i try to talk about it.

The Big problem that i'm having, is that i want to be able to run a healthy supply of juice to my system without it putting to much strain on my vehicle/equipment. I have done some simple math an calculated that i have ~3k watts. More than likely it's less than that but, i rounded up. I've been looking into new alternators an been told several times that a 200amp would suffice along with a big battery upgrade. I don't plan on running it with the vehicle off so i'm not to interested in isolating another battery. Would all of this do? an if i do upgrade the alternator an battery would it be ALMOST as simple as the first installation? Probably going to run into a lot of shorts with other fuses because the vehicle is an 87 an it's not meant for that much but, that's part of the fun :)

Please feel free to comment and correct me if i'm wrong on anything. I am open to most suggestions.

200 amps should be fine. Just remember that it won't do 200 amps at idle. A smaller pulley should help a bit. Do the big 3 as well.

what should i be looking for in idle amps?

Not commenting on the alternator issue, that's for someone else. But be sure your power cable is adequate: 4 guage at least.

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98 XLT 3.0 manual 4x4 standard cab 6ft bed
RTFM!!!

Sorry. I got this thread confused with another.

I'm guessing that you have two of these subs correct? This being the case, a 2 ohm load would be good. As for not putting too much strain on your trucks electrical... I would say at minimum you should be doing a larger alternator and larger battery. If you have 3k watts rms available you will use all that 200 amp alternator has to offer. Remember if your sub amp requires 175 amp itself, you still have your mid/high amp and the truck to power with it. Turn on your headlights, heater/AC and other accessories and you'll quickly use up 200 amps. I would consider a second battery closer to your amplifiers. Need to make sure they are the right type, too. Not a pair of cheap auto parts store lead acid tanks. Get some AGM batteries. Make sure to do all the proper wiring upgrades under the hood as well. Another thing to keep in mind is this amp is rated at 2400 @ 14.4 volts. In order to get that power, you need to keep your trucks voltage up at 14.4. This can be more challenging than people think and as the voltage drops in your truck, you can expect an increase in current demand which will simply add strain to your charging system.

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2001 XLT, 3.0, 18k miles, stock???
www.streamline-audio.com

What did Alpine get for a test rating on your M240?

I am going to be using a M55 and they clamped it at 581w at 2 ohms.

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Yes, i have 2 of the subs.

Feeling fairly confident on the progress that i have made an will soonly perform. I am looking into adding a second battery (thank you Hergy916 for being specific).

Wiring however will probably be a nightmare for me once i get to that point but, as of now i'm looking to upgrade the equipment first. I'm still looking at keeping this a daily driver even though it's a bit excessive however; i've been looking at some of the competition alternator that quote anywhere from 250 - 300 amps. Would this be a healthy alternative? and if i do such an upgrade would that effect my MPG, if so how much? (not looking for exact numbers just a little clueless). I want the set-up to last for sometime.

Another section that i remain moderately uneducated about is the voltage that my vehicle puts out. i understand the concepts an all but, it can be fairly irritating doing circles on webpages that never seem to lead to an answer for me. How am i suppose to get 14.4+ volts out of a 12 volt battery? is that where the second one comes in? And would it be possible to add a large enough battery and alternator that i could bypass adding a second battery? i don't plan on running the system with the vehicle off as of now.

Heres a pic of the subs an amp.

Attached Images

IMG_20130515_143945 (1).jpg (91.6 KB, 11 views)

I figure it out like this

2400 watts max divided by 14.4v running voltage multiplied by 1.2 (most class d amplifiers run in the 80% efficiency range) = 200 amps for audio, plus another 50-60 amps just for the vehicle.

250 amp alternator would probably work good for you

To answer your question your alternator provides the 14.4v you see in the specifications while the vehicle is running.

Some companies rate their amplifiers at 12.8 volts so you know you will get alot more power at 14.4v

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I am very sorry. Got my threads all confungled.

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Sorry, Nord. I got this thread and another thread mixed up.

Sorry for the thread hijack Nord.

I guess Alpine lied about my M55 then (smaller Alpine X-Power amp) rated at 550w @ 2ohm

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It's all good after looking into it more mine does say it runs at 14.4 volts

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Got one of these to inside the box

mine read "ouput power(RMS) 2400W min. ------- 2768W <--- which is under Actual. what exactly does this mean? cause with all this info im gettin a tad bit lost haha

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Been looking around, not entirely sure about compatibly however; fab work isnt going to be a problem. Would this one do? Didn't look to deep into as i figured i'd hand it over to the experts. If installed properly with the shortened pully. correct me if im wrong but 250 at IDK rpms at 14 volts?

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...3l-diesel.html

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The other thing that is really boggling my mind is how should i be concerned with idle amps?

It means the amp will output 2768 watts RMS (AC) into a 2 ohm load @ 14.4 volts DC.

Just be sure you get an alternator that will supply the total amps you need, at idle.

k, this is very good to know an i thank ya for all the time everyone has put into this forum but! one last thing... i see that some alternators are 12/16 volts, does it need to be at least the 16 volt compatible? and can any alternator basically mount up, given that fab work isnt a problem? Will have a mechanic place in for me. Cba to do that myself