I would run one to each at 1 ohm.

If you are going to spend that kind of money on a system like that i would seriously recommend spending another $150 and get the crossover calibrator (video link in one of my post's above) from Steve Meade Designs & D'Amore Engineering.

The gain matching mode built into it will provide optimal tuning and will help protect your investment in all that equipment.

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I agree. If doing comps, especially.

1000 for the sub 220 for the speakers. It sounds great but this is my third sub. In the truck. It's withstood the beating so far.

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Tim IRONMAN "The bowler" Eagle Scout
1999 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5l 5spd N/A std cab
Lowered 4/6, Intake, Exhaust, Centerlines, and BFG T/A's. Much more
Kicker speakers and 10" Kicker sub with 1,220 watts.
2.3 turbo being built; the Ranger with the iron lung.

1984 Porsche 944 N/A (totaled by old grandma)

NOT. That subwoofer handles 150 watts rms.

well clearly this is a sensitive topic for you... there's way more than 150 going through it. My old solo Baric sounded better, and the Kenwood sounded the best.

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Tim IRONMAN "The bowler" Eagle Scout
1999 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5l 5spd N/A std cab
Lowered 4/6, Intake, Exhaust, Centerlines, and BFG T/A's. Much more
Kicker speakers and 10" Kicker sub with 1,220 watts.
2.3 turbo being built; the Ranger with the iron lung.

1984 Porsche 944 N/A (totaled by old grandma)

What model is that kicker?

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1993 Twin stick XLT 4.0L. 3.73 8.8LS LED's here and there. Plasti-dip lower half. Sony HU. Image Dynamic 5x7 all around. 12" Sony sub. 200,000 club
Build Thread

which one the old solo Baric or the one I have now?

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Tim IRONMAN "The bowler" Eagle Scout
1999 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5l 5spd N/A std cab
Lowered 4/6, Intake, Exhaust, Centerlines, and BFG T/A's. Much more
Kicker speakers and 10" Kicker sub with 1,220 watts.
2.3 turbo being built; the Ranger with the iron lung.

1984 Porsche 944 N/A (totaled by old grandma)

Sensitive ? The Kicker subwoofer is a normal Comp series, right ? You are giving it 1000 watts RMS ? With what ? Your door speakers are getting 220 watts RMS each or 4 x 55 or 2 x 110 ?

4X55. My old analog amp is rated for 1000 watts. I'll check the part number on kicker tomorrow. It's not the typical shitty C10 I know that much. It hasn't been in long enough for me to remember everything about it, but remind me tomorrow and I'll take a closer look.

Wouldn't make sense for me to put much more through my speakers ways. I didn't want a whole bunch of bass to make my treble and mids sound like shit, so I it speakers that are clearer and just use the sub for bass.

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Tim IRONMAN "The bowler" Eagle Scout
1999 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5l 5spd N/A std cab
Lowered 4/6, Intake, Exhaust, Centerlines, and BFG T/A's. Much more
Kicker speakers and 10" Kicker sub with 1,220 watts.
2.3 turbo being built; the Ranger with the iron lung.

1984 Porsche 944 N/A (totaled by old grandma)

Analog ? What do you mean ? What door speakers and full range amp do you have ? There are no Kicker 10" subwoofers that are rated to handle 1000 watts RMS. PEAK or MAX ratings do not count. They are a figment of someone's imagination. RMS is the only power rating you should use for speakers/amps/headunits, etc. I still do not know what is meant by sensitive in your above post. I am here attempting to help people and educate where the need arises, like with you. Case in point - "old analog amp". No such critter exists.

by analog I mean it is not a digital amp like some of the nicer high end ones. Is that a bit better in terms of clarity? It's not like the newer alpines that are fully digital amplifiers. If peak doesn't count, then I guess you can disregard it. To me, it counts. Agree to disagree. My Kickers in the doors and in back I think are DS68's? That just popped into my head I can't remember if that's right or not so don't hold me to it. They're very clear and that's what I wanted, because I cannot stand when voices in music have that sort of bass-like vibration in them. Clearer speakers that aren't meant for bass helps get the music out better and the sub cleans up the act with all of the bass; that was my goal.

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Tim IRONMAN "The bowler" Eagle Scout
1999 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5l 5spd N/A std cab
Lowered 4/6, Intake, Exhaust, Centerlines, and BFG T/A's. Much more
Kicker speakers and 10" Kicker sub with 1,220 watts.
2.3 turbo being built; the Ranger with the iron lung.

1984 Porsche 944 N/A (totaled by old grandma)

Not to be a dick but peak being irrelevant isn't something to disagree or agree on. RMS matters because that's what it's consistently hitting power-wise. Nobody measures speakers by the peak number.

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2001 Ranger XLT | 3.0L | 2WD | Thrush Welded Muffler | Alpine Sub | HIDs

I'm aware, but that doesn't change anything I said... It's relevance is perfectly agreeable or disagreeable, just depends who you're talking to. Obviously, there's going to be situations where it is and isn't relevant. RMS is relevant in knowing how to setup and fine tune a system, I don't doubt that either.

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Tim IRONMAN "The bowler" Eagle Scout
1999 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5l 5spd N/A std cab
Lowered 4/6, Intake, Exhaust, Centerlines, and BFG T/A's. Much more
Kicker speakers and 10" Kicker sub with 1,220 watts.
2.3 turbo being built; the Ranger with the iron lung.

1984 Porsche 944 N/A (totaled by old grandma)

NO. Peak is not a true or relevant number, regardless. It is marketing ploy only, even with the best quality brands. It's a stupid war, at the consumer's cost.

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None of the car audio amps are 'digital' or 'analog'. It is all just normal circuitry, like always. I'm starting to think maybe you think Class D means digital ? I'm not sure why you think of Kicker as sound quality speakers. Speakers an audiophile would consider for sound quality are more like Alpine Type R, Pioneer PRS, Infinity Kappa, Hertz higher end, maybe some Polk, Focal, DTS, not even gonna mention Audisson because none of us will afford them unless we win the lottery. No door speakers are meant for bass really that is under 80-100 hz. Seriously tho, sound quality starts at the source, and maybe you just happen to have awesome source material and a way to get that quality source to your speakers without coloring it too much. I hope you are learning.

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Classes of Amplifiers
An amplifier is classified according to its circuit design and the way its output stages are powered. Although some may assume that for every portion of the input signal there is corresponding 100% output from the amplifier, power dissipation (in the form of heat) and distortion of the audio signal are two key factors in determining the efficiency and fidelity of an amplifier. Each class has its own performance characteristics and advantages.

• Class A amplifiers are desirable for the high quality of their sound, but, because of the configuration of its transistors, a pure class A amplifier is inefficient and runs very hot. This is because even when there is no audio signal, the output transistors always have current running through them. The current flowing through the output transistors (with no audio signal) causes the amp to heat up unnecessarily, and "waste" input energy. Most car amplifiers that boast "Class A" circuitry are really Class A/Class AB hybrids.
• The output transistors of Class B amplifiers actually turn off for half of every signal cycle. This improves efficiency and saves energy, but introduces distortion during the switching periods.
• By far the most common car amp design, Class AB amplifiers also allow current to run through the output transistors when there is no audio signal, but at a much lower level. A class AB amplifier runs cooler, and therefore, more efficiently than a class A, with low distortion and high reliability.
• Class D amplifiers use output transistors as switches to control power distribution — the transistors rapidly switch on and off at least twice during every signal cycle. Class D amps boast higher efficiency, produce less heat, and draw less current than traditional Class AB designs. Class D amplifiers produce higher distortion than AB designs due to the high-speed switching on and off of the transistors, but this distortion occurs at frequencies above hearing, and is easily removed by a low-pass filter.

Anyone ever had experience with Pioneer Premier 6x8s? I think the model number is TS-D6280R

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1996 Ranger XLT | 2.3L 5 speed | 7/9 dropped |

2015 F150 XLT | 2.7 EcoBoost 6R80 | 4/6 dropped | wife’s truck!