I have a JL Audio 12w3-v3 in a ported box with a jx 500/1 class D amp pushing the sub at 500 watts rms at 2 ohms (recommended for the sub) and when I play hip hop/rap music it is loud and sounds beautiful, but when I play rock music it is practically the opposite. It is quiet and you can hardly notice it is there.

Sent from my old school HTC EVO Shift so I can screw off at work whenever I want

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1999 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 off road package, Step side bed, Extended cab, 3.0L vulcan v6, 4.10 open gears, Kicker ks-98's in all four stock speaker slots, After market jvc head unit, JL Audio single 12'' W3 sub eoofer in ported box, JX-500/1 class D amp, Memphis 8AWG wiring with inline fuse, Spectre cold air intake, 4 spd with o/d auto transmission

So does a sealed sub sound alright with rap then? I listen to lots of different genres, typically any kind of techno, rap, jazz, and some classic rock. I like a lot of bass, like window flexing bass, but I also like just a nice clean sound sometimes. What would be recommended for this? I would like to start looking into replacing my bass tube. It's just not enough for me now that I've heard 2 Alpine 12's from a friend's system lol. I give demos and I always try to make it do more than it can and it ends up distorting, I'd like to fix that.

Lol do I need to have two enclosures or something?

FRF for iOS

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Me to, country, rock, rap, some dubstep ect. My 10" gives me all the bass i want and more. Ive never had the bass turned up all the way but where i keep it for country can shake the rearview pretty good.

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It's like I've got the level control knob in there for nothing. I've always got it all the way turnt up because otherwise its just too quiet. The gain is all the way up and I'm not using bass boost.

Even my dad agrees. I told him I want to look for something new for a sub and he agreed that its pretty quiet right now, he thought I had it set low and not all the way turnt up.

I mean its not like its not there, but that's pretty much all it is, there. I want more than that lol.

FRF for iOS

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If you like alot of bass and good sound quality get a couple of JL Audio 12" subs that are W3 or higher and get them in a ported box. I have one JL W3 that I started earlier and people say that it sounds like I have two twelves and then I tell them I only have one.

Sent from my old school HTC EVO Shift so I can screw off at work whenever I want

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1999 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 off road package, Step side bed, Extended cab, 3.0L vulcan v6, 4.10 open gears, Kicker ks-98's in all four stock speaker slots, After market jvc head unit, JL Audio single 12'' W3 sub eoofer in ported box, JX-500/1 class D amp, Memphis 8AWG wiring with inline fuse, Spectre cold air intake, 4 spd with o/d auto transmission

I figured a sealed box would be easier to build as well correct? but it has to be air tight correct? I was thinking of leaving the back end of the box open and just slide in into the cubby but that wouldnt even work as a ported box would it?

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Yes your enclosure needs to be completely sealed on a sealed box. The only difficult part in making a ported box is the figures IMO. There are some good port calculators across google you can use to figure out your ports and air space. You might even can find someone to draw you up some plans for your specific sub, then all ya gotta do is build it.

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Id put some sort of back to it. When i first installed the box i built it wasnt completely sealed. It had some big gaps in it, but shortly after i used silicone to seal it and noticed a small difference.

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It's because the box is 'port-tuned' to a certain frequency and some music might not contain that frequency or your subsonic filter is set too high.

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A ported box requires a certain degree of engineering to get the port/tuning/volume correct for the sub being used. With a sealed box, you just need the correct volume for the subwoofer being used and depth, of course.

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A sealed box must be sealed very tightly with braced corners inside and joined mating surfaces. Predrill screw holes. 3/4" or better MDF. Gonna be lots of pressure inside compared to a ported box where the pressure comes out the port.

How do you adjust the subsonic filter?

Sent from my old school HTC EVO Shift so I can screw off at work whenever I want

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1999 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 off road package, Step side bed, Extended cab, 3.0L vulcan v6, 4.10 open gears, Kicker ks-98's in all four stock speaker slots, After market jvc head unit, JL Audio single 12'' W3 sub eoofer in ported box, JX-500/1 class D amp, Memphis 8AWG wiring with inline fuse, Spectre cold air intake, 4 spd with o/d auto transmission

If your sub setup is ported or vented, you should be using a subsonic filter which is actually a highpass filter that is set at a low frequency so that the sub doesn't try to play those frequencies below the box/port tuning. Most good mono amps have a subsonic filter built in nowadays. If you are using the bridged channels of a 2 or 4 channel amp, you can set that pair of channels on HPF and set the frequency dial on 30 or 40 or whatever you need, but often it doesn't go low enough. You can get an F-Mod, which is an in-line filter that connects to the RCA inputs of the amp and the RCA cables connect into those. The subsonice filter should always be set no lower than 5 hz below the tuned frequency of the ported or tuned enclosure. If your enclosure is tuned to 35 hz and the sub is trying to play 25 hz, overexcursion can cause the sub to literally beat itself to death. It can also help a sealed system be more efficient, but isn't needed.

New Pioneer Pioneer FH-X700BT Head Unit.

General features:

CD receiver with AM/FM tuner
built-in MOSFET amplifier (14 watts RMS CEA-2006/50 peak x 4 channels)
built-in Bluetooth for hands-free calling and audio streaming
MIXTRAX for a DJ-inspired audio/visual experience with compatible devices (see Details)
plays CDs, CD-Rs, and CD-RWs, including discs loaded with MP3 and WMA files
Pandora control through iPhone
variable color illumination with separate control of display and buttons
fits double-DIN (4"-tall) dash openings
remote control

Audio features:

Advanced Sound Retriever (ASR) for improved sound quality from compressed music files
5-band equalizer with seven preset tone settings
3-level loudness
low-pass and high-pass filters
subwoofer level control

Expandability:

built in iPod control — no adapter necessary, but adding Pioneer's optional connecting cable lets you leave your iPod cable at home
Android control through USB (requires free Pioneer Connect App)
inputs: front panel auxiliary and USB inputs
outputs: 4-channel preamp outputs (2-volt front, rear/subwoofer)

wish I had android control on mind... sucks because I never had need of it, but now I have a smartphone and I have to run a aux cable.

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so I think Im going to run 2 sealed boxes on each side of the cab, Im aiming for around 1.25 cu ft of airspace. is this how big the box has to be by itself without the sub in it? do I need to account for the airspace the sub takes up in the box? any tips for building a sealed box? (materials glue etc)

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Depends on what subs you are using. What is the make and model of the subs and amp ?

Get you 2 Memphis power reference subs and put them in a cubic foot each I promise you will love them. They are very clean and very affordable