Show Your System - Page 343

Mazda0610 · #**5131** 04-09-2016, 09:37 PM

I defiantly hammered my door and put in my 6.5s . Oh whale lol any ways in today's big 3 anything that coulda went wrong did. From the terminals not fitting the wire to the oreilys chick saying that the new bolts would fit to the new terminal stripping out to not being able to get the final terminal tightened down. Good news is we got
It.

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And yes that is a positive amp wire attached to the alternator distribution block. And even worse it had a fuse that gave it live power. No amp just the fuse. I was like wtf

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One last thing. That - looks close to the belt but there was a lot of clearnece

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Markous · #**5132** 04-09-2016, 10:00 PM

I am tempted to get a rivet nut tool so i can take a 8x10 square of 1/4" PVC or something and bottom mount the speaker to it and bolt the whole thing into the door. After i open the door hole a little of course.

These new speakers have a mounting depth about 1/8" deeper (bottom mounted) than my current type r's top mounted so i shouldn't have and issues in that regard thankfully.

What motor do you have in your truck Zach? that isn't the t mounted style alternator that i have.

The perspective makes the case ground look close but that can be decieving.

Mazda0610 · #**5133** 04-09-2016, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Markous

I am tempted to get a rivet nut tool so i can take a 8x10 square of 1/4" PVC or something and bottom mount the speaker to it and bolt the whole thing into the door. After i open the door hole a little of course.

These new speakers have a mounting depth about 1/8" deeper (bottom mounted) than my current type r's top mounted so i shouldn't have and issues in that regard thankfully.

What motor do you have in your truck Zach? that isn't the t mounted style alternator that i have.

The perspective makes the case ground look close but that can be decieving.

Not my truck lol. That's a Chevy 5.3 . My Alts on the other side. All very easy to work on.

Markous · #**5134** 04-09-2016, 10:14 PM

Ah that makes sense, i was like WTF does he have in there?

One thing i don't like is that upper rad hose routing on our trucks. Wish it didn't go right over the top of the alt.

Mazda0610 · #**5135** 04-09-2016, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Markous

Ah that makes sense, i was like WTF does he have in there?

One thing i don't like is that upper rad hose routing on our trucks. Wish it didn't go right over the top of the alt.

Ug. I zip tied mine too it. It has done good. Or I believe it is zip tied to it. May have changed the routing

GSF1200S · #**5136** 04-10-2016, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Markous

Have any pictures by chance? or a link to a good how to guide?

I've got some 6.5 coaxials that are going in (hopefuly soon) and i've only just started gving it some serious thought on how i'm gonna do it.

I can figure it out for myself but any tip or tricks will help.

I just got done with the electrical and mounting the crossovers in the cab yesterday, and today ill be mounting the speakers in the door.

Yeah, you have to enlarge the hole width wise for sure. Another problem comes in with top mount depth. The Ranger door has plenty of space behind the speaker depth wise, and even with big magnets youll be fine. However, the grill of the plastic door panel is pretty close to the speaker. If you try to put an mdf or even cutting board adapter on top of the mounting hole, the door panel will hit the tweeter and probably even the speaker when you put it all together. What I did was enlarge the hole quite a bit, then cut out and installed mdf adapters behind the speaker hole instead of on top of it. Once the speaker was screwed down, I had about 1/8" to 1/4" of space between the tweeter and the door panel. Even without a tweeter, I dont see how a 3/4" or even 1/2" mdf adapter would work mounted on top of the hole.

I put a lot of black RTV on the MDF adapter so that when I screwed it into the door, the RTV would essentially act to isolate the adapter plate from the door skin. Then I sealed the adapter to the door with black RTV (to eliminate the back wave canceling sound from the front), and created a black RTV ring where the speaker could sit against. The hole is sealed and I got no vibrations/resonance when I put it together, so I must have done something right.

Im hesistant to post pictures because frankly ive never done anything so ghetto as to cut into a metal door skin, nor have I ever used RTV in such a way. But if it helps, fuck it- ill take some pics before and after I install the driver.

Good news is I have access to the tweeter cuts without having to pull the door panels. It also means when/if I go active, itll be easy to do since I wont have to touch the door panels again either.

casey.mikl · #**5137** 04-10-2016, 09:15 AM

Picked up a quantum audio 10 in a pro box for $60. image-91443288.jpg

image-2076631644.jpg

Think I should be able to flip it make a little bit of money

Big 4.0 power · #**5138** 04-10-2016, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by casey.mikl

Picked up a quantum audio 10 in a pro box for $60. Think I should be able to flip it make a little bit of money

could it fit in the back of a ranger? ----------

Quote:

Originally Posted by GSF1200S

I just got done with the electrical and mounting the crossovers in the cab yesterday, and today ill be mounting the speakers in the door. Yeah, you have to enlarge the hole width wise for sure. Another problem comes in with top mount depth. The Ranger door has plenty of space behind the speaker depth wise, and even with big magnets youll be fine. However, the grill of the plastic door panel is pretty close to the speaker. If you try to put an mdf or even cutting board adapter on top of the mounting hole, the door panel will hit the tweeter and probably even the speaker when you put it all together. What I did was enlarge the hole quite a bit, then cut out and installed mdf adapters behind the speaker hole instead of on top of it. Once the speaker was screwed down, I had about 1/8" to 1/4" of space between the tweeter and the door panel. Even without a tweeter, I dont see how a 3/4" or even 1/2" mdf adapter would work mounted on top of the hole. I put a lot of black RTV on the MDF adapter so that when I screwed it into the door, the RTV would essentially act to isolate the adapter plate from the door skin. Then I sealed the adapter to the door with black RTV (to eliminate the back wave canceling sound from the front), and created a black RTV ring where the speaker could sit against. The hole is sealed and I got no vibrations/resonance when I put it together, so I must have done something right. Im hesistant to post pictures because frankly ive never done anything so ghetto as to cut into a metal door skin, nor have I ever used RTV in such a way. But if it helps, fuck it- ill take some pics before and after I install the driver. Good news is I have access to the tweeter cuts without having to pull the door panels. It also means when/if I go active, itll be easy to do since I wont have to touch the door panels again either.

i don't blame you on wanting to post pics

01redrangaaa · #**5139** 04-10-2016, 09:56 AM

I am in the process of building a box in my ranger for 3 JL W1's I have two right now but I always need more haha. Obviously in a standard cab ranger there is limited space so I need all that I can get. And I do not want to do a blow through lol. Therefore, when I build this box I want to make it one big sealed chamber instead of three separate chambers to save space. Does anyone know what effect this would have on the sound of the subs. I know it will sound fine because I have done it before but I just want to know if there are pros and cons for the two different styles. All input is appreciated.

casey.mikl · #**5140** 04-10-2016, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big 4.0 power

could it fit in the back of a ranger? ---------- i don't blame you on wanting to post pics

Yes

Markous · #**5141** 04-10-2016, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 01redrangaaa

I am in the process of building a box in my ranger for 3 JL W1's I have two right now but I always need more haha. Obviously in a standard cab ranger there is limited space so I need all that I can get. And I do not want to do a blow through lol. Therefore, when I build this box I want to make it one big sealed chamber instead of three separate chambers to save space. Does anyone know what effect this would have on the sound of the subs. I know it will sound fine because I have done it before but I just want to know if there are pros and cons for the two different styles. All input is appreciated.

As far as i know as long as they aren't wired seperately to the amp but instead wired together to present one impedance load to the amp there shouldn't be an issue.

That just what i know though, take it with a grain of salt.

01redrangaaa · #**5142** 04-10-2016, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Markous

As far as i know as long as they aren't wired seperately to the amp but instead wired together to present one impedance load to the amp there shouldn't be an issue. That just what i know though, take it with a grain of salt.

That's what I'm thinking but also kind of worried about the box having no bracing, although I could do some sort of brace with a majority of it open so the air could still more throughout

Markous · #**5143** 04-10-2016, 10:23 AM

How much power are you going to be pushing them with?

Whats your enclosure going to be built with?

01redrangaaa · #**5144** 04-10-2016, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Markous

How much power are you going to be pushing them with? Whats your enclosure going to be built with?

around 200-250 per sub and with standard mdf 3/4". Unless you would recommend a sturdier peice of wood to prevent from having braces

Markous · #**5145** 04-10-2016, 10:36 AM

I think you should be ok, i would maybe just drill a few pairs of holes through front and back in the same spots and use wooden dowels to put through them.