Haven't really heard of it. But I know there are some others that are similar that simply push a little more wattage out. I'd do it if I didn't want to go crazy

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2003 Mazda B3000 Dual sport
Exterior: Plasti dipped fender flares,17x9 HELO flat back rims,33 inch terra graplers,Billet grille insert,4 inch spindles, 3 inch blocks,Bilsteins all the way around (soon to be),Kensun HIDs 8000k Bi-xenon hi/lo & fogs
Much more!

Well, decided im going to improve my front stage. What I have doesnt really pump the midbass unless a song is naturally mixed with lower highs. I can eq the higher frequencies (deh80prs hu), but its not a perfect solution. Not sure if im explaining this right as im an audio noob.

Current:
DEH80prs standard mode, Polk audio PA4000.4 class D amp, pioneer ts-d1702 6.5" coaxials, pioneer compact downfiring 10.
Front two channels of amp drive ts-d's at 60wrms, back two channels bridged throwing 350wrms at the sub.

Prospective build:
DEH80prs network mode (2-way active), PA4000.4 amp, Kenwood class AB amp (for tweeters), silver flute 6.5" woofers, Seas Prestige 1" textile dome tweeters (mounted on the door below sails), pioneer downfire 10.
Front two channels of PA4000.4 throwing ~75wrms at silver flutes, back two channels bridged 350wrms at the sub, kenwood amp throwing 30-50wrms at the tweeters.
Tweets highpassed at about 3.5khz not sure on slope, silver flutes bandpassed 80hz 36db/octave slope to 3.5khz not sure on slope, sub with shallow slope (6-12db) low passed at 80hz. My sub due to its small enclosure plays up into the low 100s with ease, so crossover is mainly for me to control peaks and avoid localization.

Thats what I got so far. Anyone got alternatives? I need to do the front stage before I move to the sub. Im going to build my own box and use a dayton 12" 4 ohm single voice coil sub when I get around to it.

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2002 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, 2.3L Duratec I4, 5-speed manual, 4.10 gears, ~100,000 miles
Power nothing with air conditioning; crank windows for life!
Throttle cable mod, retained accessory power mod, 2006 thermostat w/resistor mod
Headlight relay harness, Philips xtreme-vision bulbs
P235/75R15 Michelin LTX M/S2s

I had the 1st gen of those power packs, they worked really good with the Type S 5x7's i first had and then made the Type R "6x8"s that replaced them work pretty good too.

Now that i have a decent class a/b four channel amp on the speakers i wouldn't want to go back.

I see they even have a tiny mono amp now for a small sub in the same type of form factor.

Edit - If you're going to have 1500w on the substage i would guess the little power pack will have a difficult time keeping up

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Yeah it wouldn't be running at 1500 watts the entire time. I would have it turned down with the knob and turn it up whenever. Eventually I'll add to the speakers with a decent amp. My Mazda has a alpine head unit, kicker 5x7 (all4) powerbass 600.4 and alpine type R 8 and 250w alpine class d mono amp. Love the sound. But now that I have the room why not go big? Planning on using the infinity speakers that are a little more fond of head unit power. Thinking either spending a little on the power pack or waiting and installing a 4 channel down the road.

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1997 B2300 reg cab 2.3 Lima, 15x8.5 Mickey Thompson classic 2, 31x10.50 cooper discover at3, 7.5 open 4.10 rear, dynomax super turbo catback, alpine iva-w200 w/ nav, kicker 6x8s, alpine type R 8, alpine 250W mono amp, power bass 400.4, tool box & camper shell, compustar alarm/remote start.
1956 Ford F100 rust bucket with big plans!

Or go home

I with ya man, love my system but the bass knob rarely gets turned down

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My bass knob stays down these days. Loving my mclarens and their sq

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2003 Mazda B3000 Dual sport
Exterior: Plasti dipped fender flares,17x9 HELO flat back rims,33 inch terra graplers,Billet grille insert,4 inch spindles, 3 inch blocks,Bilsteins all the way around (soon to be),Kensun HIDs 8000k Bi-xenon hi/lo & fogs
Much more!

That's how it is in the Mazda lol. It's only an 8 but I love it. Just installed (on Sunday) a pioneer ib flat 12 in a sealed box with an alpine 500watt class D in my moms Silverado. Cut the dual 12 box in half and installed just the 1 sub. Probably only around 400 watts and it sounds good! Makes me wonder what those 2 10s and 1500 watts will sound like!! Gonna need to pull my carpet and dynomat the whole truck. Don't wanna hear a bunch of rattling outside of the truck

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1997 B2300 reg cab 2.3 Lima, 15x8.5 Mickey Thompson classic 2, 31x10.50 cooper discover at3, 7.5 open 4.10 rear, dynomax super turbo catback, alpine iva-w200 w/ nav, kicker 6x8s, alpine type R 8, alpine 250W mono amp, power bass 400.4, tool box & camper shell, compustar alarm/remote start.
1956 Ford F100 rust bucket with big plans!

My one 10" on 2kw is pretty impressive for what it is, you should be bumping quite nicely with that set-up!

You won't regret the dampning, trust me

I also had to use a few business cards folded up slid under the edges on the rear sliding window, it makes the most noise after you dampen.

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My rear slider is power and missing the seals. I need to get seals for it and get the window pulled to put them in. I don't want to tear the truck apart for the matting but would help in the long run. Not planning on doing the doors. Probably just the floor and back wall. Amp will be mounted on the back wall behind the seat back and the subs will be in a 3/4 mdf box under the back seat.

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1997 B2300 reg cab 2.3 Lima, 15x8.5 Mickey Thompson classic 2, 31x10.50 cooper discover at3, 7.5 open 4.10 rear, dynomax super turbo catback, alpine iva-w200 w/ nav, kicker 6x8s, alpine type R 8, alpine 250W mono amp, power bass 400.4, tool box & camper shell, compustar alarm/remote start.
1956 Ford F100 rust bucket with big plans!

You might want to consider popping the door panels off and adding a thin strip of folded damper in between the edges of door reinforcing tube and the outer skin. Ford uses some type of adhesive for attaching these but i have heard it produce a rattle under bass strain.

Doing the floor and back wall even at 25% coverage will make a difference for sure. You'll appreciate it on the highway too.

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Can say that again. I have everything around that sound deadend. Damn window is ridiculous. And it makes me loose so much pressure. I was at like a 144 then pushed my hands against it and my friends push on the outside. Did a 148.2

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2003 Mazda B3000 Dual sport
Exterior: Plasti dipped fender flares,17x9 HELO flat back rims,33 inch terra graplers,Billet grille insert,4 inch spindles, 3 inch blocks,Bilsteins all the way around (soon to be),Kensun HIDs 8000k Bi-xenon hi/lo & fogs
Much more!

DAMN! that sucks up alot of energy, wow!

I'm tempted to try something with some plasti-dip on the glass then dampner on top of that, i'd mask out some area so i'm not blind while driving though.

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I want to silicone he shit. Had a solid glass one. And it broke with 3 inches left to get out of the truck

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2003 Mazda B3000 Dual sport
Exterior: Plasti dipped fender flares,17x9 HELO flat back rims,33 inch terra graplers,Billet grille insert,4 inch spindles, 3 inch blocks,Bilsteins all the way around (soon to be),Kensun HIDs 8000k Bi-xenon hi/lo & fogs
Much more!

got my tweeters mounted. BTW does anyone have door panels for sale cheep for a 89-93 ranger/bronco

Full system consists of JVC KD-S88BT headunit
Pyramid PB717x 2 channel (need to replace it with something better) running Polk audio db6501 components in the front doora infinity reference 1211a @1ohm pushing a Soundqubed HDS215 in a custom ported box nothing in the back for now

That amp isn't 1 ohm stable