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  #4141  
Old 05-11-2015, 08:13 PM
jheitt jheitt is offline
Ford Tough
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 286
Default Re: Show Your System

how long until Sundown just starts sponsoring you? hahaha
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2008 Sport 4x4, Pro Comp D windows, 265/75R16's, leather, JVC double DIN, Kenwood 5-1/4 components, Clarion XR2420, 4 - 8" Dayton Audio SD215A-88 in 3.6ft^3 @ 38hz
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  #4142  
Old 05-11-2015, 08:18 PM
Hunter96Teal Hunter96Teal is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jheitt View Post
Also a three way is usually a mid bass (woofer) a mid range and a tweeter. Unless its a coaxial. The it's usually just two tweeters (for no reason other then so people can say 'yeah bro 3/4/5 way) on a mid.
They're coaxial.
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1997 Ford Ranger 3.0 Xlt 5spd
2.5 inch leveling kit, 31x10.50R15 Mudstar tires, upgraded sound system, interior LEDs, LED light bar, camoflauge headliner.

It is what it is.
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  #4143  
Old 05-11-2015, 08:27 PM
pk9298 pk9298 is offline
Love me some Axels
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
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So since this thread is bumping. I'm gona build a box. For.....get this. You ready?! The amp. Lol it's gona have 2 or 3 cooling fans built into it. I'm hoping to make like a ram air system for the amp to shoot cold air into it and cool it down some.
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2001 Ford Ranger XLT 4X4
Extended Cab Stepside. Offroad package Tow Package
4.0 SOHC V6. Full synthetic. 85,000 miles
Goodyear Wrangler Authorities A/T 245/75/R16.
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The Lone Ranger
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  #4144  
Old 05-11-2015, 08:48 PM
Markous Markous is offline
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Default Re: Show Your System

Quote:
Originally Posted by jheitt View Post
how long until Sundown just starts sponsoring you? hahaha
Maybe when i get the 6.5 coaxials they are releasing this summer

Right now i'm all alpine with no real bass the 6x8's do alright by that powerpack though
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Last edited by Markous; 05-11-2015 at 08:51 PM.
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  #4145  
Old 05-11-2015, 10:32 PM
casey.mikl casey.mikl is offline
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I got kicked door speakers and want to go to the alpines type R or S? I've got the alpine double din, type R 8 and amp
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1997 B2300 reg cab 2.3 Lima, 15x8.5 Mickey Thompson classic 2, 31x10.50 cooper discover at3, 7.5 open 4.10 rear, dynomax super turbo catback, alpine iva-w200 w/ nav, kicker 6x8s, alpine type R 8, alpine 250W mono amp, power bass 400.4, tool box & camper shell, compustar alarm/remote start.
1956 Ford F100 rust bucket with big plans!
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  #4146  
Old 05-11-2015, 10:37 PM
AmericanPride! AmericanPride! is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,674
Default Re: Show Your System

Quote:
Originally Posted by casey.mikl View Post
I got kicked door speakers and want to go to the alpines type R or S? I've got the alpine double din, type R 8 and amp
The R's are the higher model
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  #4147  
Old 05-11-2015, 11:01 PM
GLH GLH is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter96Teal View Post
They're coaxial.
Son, my Infinity Kappa coaxials would blow your mind. 5 way is no better than coaxial. Redundant gimmickry is what they are.
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  #4148  
Old 05-11-2015, 11:53 PM
Hunter96Teal Hunter96Teal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLH View Post
Son, my Infinity Kappa coaxials would blow your mind. 5 way is no better than coaxial. Redundant gimmickry is what they are.
I just stated that mine are coaxial! And they sound great! My dad had infinity speakers in his Cadillac cts. It sounded pretty good. I don't know if they were the same as yours for he put them in the caddy like 3-ish years ago.
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1997 Ford Ranger 3.0 Xlt 5spd
2.5 inch leveling kit, 31x10.50R15 Mudstar tires, upgraded sound system, interior LEDs, LED light bar, camoflauge headliner.

It is what it is.
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  #4149  
Old 05-11-2015, 11:58 PM
casey.mikl casey.mikl is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmericanPride! View Post
The R's are the higher model
Yeah I know, I worded it wrong. Ment to ask what he has
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1997 B2300 reg cab 2.3 Lima, 15x8.5 Mickey Thompson classic 2, 31x10.50 cooper discover at3, 7.5 open 4.10 rear, dynomax super turbo catback, alpine iva-w200 w/ nav, kicker 6x8s, alpine type R 8, alpine 250W mono amp, power bass 400.4, tool box & camper shell, compustar alarm/remote start.
1956 Ford F100 rust bucket with big plans!
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  #4150  
Old 05-12-2015, 12:03 AM
GSF1200S GSF1200S is offline
Wrist Twister
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 960
Default Re: Show Your System

Well, it was a ton of work but I finally have a decent little system in my truck. Components of system are:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS head unit
Pioneer TS-D1602R Coaxial 6.5" speakers (front stage)
Polk Audio PA-D4000.4 class D amplifier (125wrms x4 @ 4 ohm; 400wrms @ 4 ohm bridged)
Pioneer TS-SWX2502 compact sealed downfiring 10" subwoofer
NVX speaker wire and RCA cables.

I followed some good practice with setup- I ran the power cable down the driver side of the truck, and the RCA cables/ speaker wire down the passenger side. I used the passenger seat belt bolt as a ground. I kept the RCA cables separate from any power wires in the truck. I used zipties extensively to hold wiring in place, and all connections for the deck wiring harness and speaker wires were soldered w/ shrink tubing. I brought the power wire (4awg) through the firewall right behind the fuse box in the engine compartment and placed a plastic insert in the hole to present chaffing of the power cable (the cable is fused at the battery just in case). Results: first install of a stereo in my own vehicle, and I have no noise, no alternator whine, no interference, good radio reception, no rattles or vibration, etc.

I also did extensive door prep. Heres the door after removing the speaker and the moisture barrier:


And heres the door before putting the new speaker in and moisture barrier on (I also dynamatted the large plexiglass covering over the big hole):


I used 1/2" MDF board to create adapter plates for the speakers. As the Ranger has 6x8 speakers standard, this was a lot of work. i used a grinding wheel and vice grips to make the hole large enough to fit 6.5 speakers. Before anyone asks, I plan to run serious components in time, and 6.5 is much more commonly found. Many folk seem to think round speakers offer less distortion too, so.. I fit checked the speakers I have and noticed the tweeters on my speakers wouldnt allow the door panel to fit- the tweeters where up against the plastic grill on the door panel. I placed the MDF adapters IN the door using the lip to recess the speaker in a bit. I placed cheap walmart mattress memory foam behind the speaker to catch/break-up the speaker backwave. I used black/grey permatex RTV on the MDF ring where it mates to the door, and put a bead where the speaker attaches to the ring, mainly to avoid vibrations.

Heres the door with the panel ready to go on:


The amp was a pain. The seat hump under each seat made amp install difficult. I screwed the amp in at the back, and used doorstops under the front to support it. I also had to relocate where the seat plug (for seatbelts/airbags) came out of the carpet.

I took the driver side jumpseat out as I dont need it. I kept the passenger one in case I need to emergency carry 2 other people, but the truck is usually just carrying me. I mounted the sub on the floor behind the driver seat- the seat can still go all the way back and can fully recline. Id like to hit a junk yard and see if I can find the cargo panel that goes where jumpseats go since theres now empty space. Heres what the sub and amp looks like:


I see now the sub doesnt need as much room underneath, so I might lower it. Heres the head unit, and notice the mic on the steering column (for bluetooth handsfree calling):


Cleaned it all up, put the seats in, set my gains (50hz and 1khz at 55/62 volume with DMM), and tried it. HORRIBLE. It was seriously disappointing. However, after playing with crossovers for the sub, doing driver level matching, setting time alignment, toning down a few peaks with the EQ, and most importantly letting the sub and speakers break in, im impressed. It sounds incredible now!

I like that it sounds great but is pretty stealth- nothing except the subbox is visible, and even that you really have to look for since its on the floor and I have decent tint (not blackout, but dark). Most people see "Pioneer" on the head unit and think "cheap." The amp is hidden under the passenger seat. Of course, I have an alarm that warns me, and protection

Any advice, concerns, or criticisms- bring it! Im no expert at this My goal eventually is to use some JBL P660C component speakers, add a small vertically mounted amp where the jump seat was (for tweeters), and run 3-way active with the DEH-80PRS in network mode. I will only need a distribution block, 8 guage wire, a small amp, the speakers, and some speaker wire to make this happen. Thoughts?
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2002 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, 2.3L Duratec I4, 5-speed manual, 4.10 gears, ~96000 miles
Power nothing with air conditioning; crank windows for life!
Throttle cable mod, retained accessory power mod, 2006 thermostat w/resistor mod
Headlight relay harness, Philips xtreme-vision bulbs
P235/75R15 Michelin LTX M/S2s
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  #4151  
Old 05-12-2015, 02:58 AM
GLH GLH is offline
Ford Ranger Driver
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 8,818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter96Teal View Post
I just stated that mine are coaxial! And they sound great! My dad had infinity speakers in his Cadillac cts. It sounded pretty good. I don't know if they were the same as yours for he put them in the caddy like 3-ish years ago.
5way is not coaxial. Co = 2.

----------

Did you reset the gains with the DMM after adjusting high/lowpass and eq, etc ? Are you using the high/lowpass and sub control of the headunit with the amp crossover switch 'off' or 'pass' ?
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  #4152  
Old 05-12-2015, 09:45 AM
Markous Markous is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,121
Default Re: Show Your System

I ran the type S for about a year on the power pack and they really sound good and are probably a better match for the power pack in terms of rms power ratings.
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2007 Sport|DSG|3.0L|2WD|Black Billet|Anzo LED Tails & 3rd
iPhone 6+ Side Slider|iStreamer|AudioControl|Sundown Audio
Big3|Mechman|x2 G65 AGM|Sound dampening
Pictures
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  #4153  
Old 05-12-2015, 09:59 PM
GSF1200S GSF1200S is offline
Wrist Twister
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 960
Default Re: Show Your System

Do any of you want to at least comment on my door prep above? Id at least like to know if it looks like I did it the right way. If I havent, ill just rip it out and start all over.
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2002 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, 2.3L Duratec I4, 5-speed manual, 4.10 gears, ~96000 miles
Power nothing with air conditioning; crank windows for life!
Throttle cable mod, retained accessory power mod, 2006 thermostat w/resistor mod
Headlight relay harness, Philips xtreme-vision bulbs
P235/75R15 Michelin LTX M/S2s
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  #4154  
Old 05-12-2015, 10:22 PM
jheitt jheitt is offline
Ford Tough
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 286
Default Show Your System

I think it looks good. I really need to deaden my doors. Damn fords are so tinny. for future reference 1/4" fiber board is the bomb for making fill plates like you did for the 6.5's.

I also like the sub arrangement. I really need to do something else For mine. I miss all my space.
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2008 Sport 4x4, Pro Comp D windows, 265/75R16's, leather, JVC double DIN, Kenwood 5-1/4 components, Clarion XR2420, 4 - 8" Dayton Audio SD215A-88 in 3.6ft^3 @ 38hz
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  #4155  
Old 05-13-2015, 12:30 AM
GLH GLH is offline
Ford Ranger Driver
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 8,818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markous View Post
I ran the type S for about a year on the power pack and they really sound good and are probably a better match for the power pack in terms of rms power ratings.
Correct you are. I like them on about 60 rms and the Type R's on 100 rms. I still doubt the Alpine power pack does 45 rms x 4, even Class D.
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