Show Your System - Page 137

DustyXB · #**2041** 07-31-2013, 12:45 PM

Out of all the systems I've had I never had to. You can if you want but you'll probably gonna want to upgrade your sub and amp after that too. Leave it as is for now. Listen to it then decide if you want/need more

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Tickle Monster · #**2042** 07-31-2013, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomdmcpwn

Would you guys recommend that I buy a separate amp to power my speakers rather than running them off the headunit? And if so what's an inexpensive amp? I don't think I would need many watts, correct? Just more than the 15 from my headunit. Haha. My system isn't crazy powered, so idk if amping my speakers would be necessary since its not like I'm running a 1k rms amp/sub. Thanks

It would make a big sufferance in your highs. I have a Rockford 150.2 I usually hide in my build somewhere. I keep it because I've had it in my last 4 builds

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DustyXB · #**2043** 07-31-2013, 12:55 PM

Only problem is with the deck he got, it only has preamp outs for fronts and rear/sub. Another reason I went with my JVC it has all three preamps. So expanding your system with the HU is kinda lame :/ unfortunately.

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Not to say that you can't!

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Markous · #**2044** 07-31-2013, 02:54 PM

I really like my Alpine KTP-445 mini amp, just plug and play with any 2006+ HU. takes the 18x4 rms and bumps it to 45x4, It basically gives you the same volume with less distortion.

They also make a universal version that will work with any HU too.

Good little amp for anyone just wanting a little boost.

M_Pickle · #**2045** 07-31-2013, 03:56 PM

Anybody wanna give me some ideas on my new set up
(2)6.5" db drives
(2)8" db drives
(2)db tweeters
600 watt power acoustik
2 10" kicker cvrs or l7s
1600 w power acoustik
500k farad cap
2.0 farad cap

This is how i have my current system ran
(4) 6.5" db drives
(2)8" db drives
400 w alpine
2 10" xplod 1100w
1000w song
500k farad cap

(2)6.5s in door, amps in toolbox

(Gettin new amps, new subs, one new cap, and trading 2 6.5s for tweeters)

I appreciate any insight im thinkin the 10s between the seats
Amp and cap behind each seat
Tweeters behind the shifter
6.5s in the door
And 8s down the center of my roof

GLH · #**2046** 07-31-2013, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hergy916

I used to have this problem but I've discovered that people don't really think or understand what really goes into building a custom enclosure correctly. I have several pictures of the actual build process of a custom enclosure for people to see and then have examples of some that we have built along with pre-fab boxes on display. A good demo of a correctly built enclosure vs. a pre-fab goes a long way. Also, discussing everything that goes into a custom enclosure is important. Often, people don't think about the time it takes just to get the design figured out especially with ported enclosures. Then, there is the cost of materials. Wood, glue, screws, nails, carpet, etc., etc. We have the largest, most extensive fab shop in our city and I don't mind showing it to people. Once they see/hear the benefits of having a custom enclosure built correctly by us, they quickly understand why a custom enclosure usually starts about $125-150.

Notice I keep saying "correctly." There are lots of people that can build a box, but a correctly built enclosure takes skill, experience and the proper tools. The other reality of it is that lots of people will never even know the difference between a pre-fab box and a custom enclosure so they don't see the value in the extra cost of the custom option. "It's just a box" is something I hear a lot and it used to bother me. This is why I went through the effort to have examples available for people to see first hand and to have working demos for people to hear. One of my favorite things to do is to take a clients sub out of their pre-fab box and build a custom enclosure for it. Once they hear the difference they almost always go custom after that.

I agree. Most subs will work in a ported box but all have different parameter needs. There are subs that just do not do well in a ported box.

Markous · #**2047** 08-01-2013, 06:12 AM

I mentioned getting a couple of the Sundown X-6.5's on the last page with a video Jacob had put up.

Well scratch that idea, he just posted pictures of the X-8 prototype

Thats it beside what i have now, the SA-8.

Conservatively rated at 750w rms

yup thats for me!

tomdmcpwn · #**2048** 08-01-2013, 08:41 AM

Jesus. They're amazing

Tickle Monster · #**2049** 08-01-2013, 10:58 AM

Wow, thats a bigger motor than my SAs. I got to update the orgnaized thread now

tomdmcpwn · #**2050** 08-01-2013, 11:31 AM

What gauge wire would be best for my setup? The amp and sub are 250 W RMS. my dad is saying that we have wire that will work, but it's all skinny.. Like 24 gauge. To my knowledge you want to run something around 8 gauge? But idk if impedance will be an issue. I may just call Crutchfield and ask. Any ideas first?

DustyXB · #**2051** 08-01-2013, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomdmcpwn

What gauge wire would be best for my setup? The amp and sub are 250 W RMS. my dad is saying that we have wire that will work, but it's all skinny.. Like 24 gauge. To my knowledge you want to run something around 8 gauge? But idk if impedance will be an issue. I may just call Crutchfield and ask. Any ideas first?

For power abd ground you should be fine with 8. I'd go with 6 if you can find it but its oretty rare these days. 4 would be plenty but it can be pretty pricey.

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tomdmcpwn · #**2052** 08-01-2013, 11:39 AM

Does it hurt to go bigger? Because wallyworld sells 8 gauge and 6 gauge for the same price for 25'. But I have a low wattage setup so to my knowledge if I ran something like 4 or 6 gauge it would take more flow in the wire than its worth, if that makes sense. I don't know ye technical terminology of what I'm trying to say, I just know what I'm trying to get across. Haha.

DustyXB · #**2053** 08-01-2013, 11:44 AM

Lol go with the 6 that way its there when/if you upgrade

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tomdmcpwn · #**2054** 08-01-2013, 11:45 AM

My next question is about power. Sorry for raping this thread with questions lately, should be done within the next day or 2. What size wire is used for power to the amp? And I have an extra cigarette lighter port not being used ever in my truck, the one closest to the steering wheel on the bezel. Can I tap into that for power to the amp? I believe it's a 12V DC, which to my knowledge is useable. Is this true? And if so would I have to modify it or anything? And should I put a fuse inline if I did that?

Tickle Monster · #**2055** 08-01-2013, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomdmcpwn

What gauge wire would be best for my setup? The amp and sub are 250 W RMS. my dad is saying that we have wire that will work, but it's all skinny.. Like 24 gauge. To my knowledge you want to run something around 8 gauge? But idk if impedance will be an issue. I may just call Crutchfield and ask. Any ideas first?

If you plan on leaving it, use 8, if you plan on future upgrades use 4. You can get some kits of ebay that usually do the job well. Audiotechnix has a decent one.