I just bought 2 pioneer shallow mount subs....
Specs are
10" 4-ohm shallow subwoofer
interlaced basalt and carbon reinforced IMPP cone
3-layer urethane and fiber-woven radial surround
cast aluminum basket
Air Suspension Control System eliminates traditional spider structure
power range: 50-300 watts RMS (1,200 watts peak power)
frequency response: 20-290 Hz
sensitivity: 90 dB
mounting depth: 3"

bear in mind I am mounting 2 of them...thanks guys

would this be a good match??

Sony XM-ZZR3301 (xmzzr3301) Mono Subwoofer Amps Car Amplifiers Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix

anything from jl audio is the best. i have a jl sub and a jl amp, and its going through stock speakers and sounds great.

^careful with that "best" word. lol
anyway, my suggestion is a kenwood KAC-814D
I have those two subs in two .37 cubic foot sealed boxes wired to a 2 ohm load on that same amp, pushing 250 RMS to each sub, and boy, it cranks.
And I say get a 1.5-2.3 Farad capacitor too, so you get that extra punch.
Sonic Electronix is doing "Server Maintenance" right now, but I suggest shopping there.

however, when the site gets back up, I'm going to do some research and I'll find a much cheaper amp that will do the same thing, because with my experience, with fans cooling the amp (I HIGHLY recommend installing computer fans under the amp) and correct power, fuse, and ground placement, any amp at this level (~300-600RMS) will sound EXACTLY the same. so I actually say go off brand with the correct specs, then just buy it from SonicElectronix.com and you get a full warrenty anyway for like 8 bucks (definitely recommend that too.)

Hope that helps, I'll find some amps and link you too them as soon as their site gets back up.
-TD

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2002 Red Mazda B2300
Short Cab, Short Bed, Pioneer sound system:
DEH-P5100UB deck, dual USB/aux inputs, single CD, organic display, remote
4 TS-A6872R 40 watt nominal speakers
2 TS-SW2501S4 250 watt nominal 10" subwoofers

How much you willing to spend? I bought the older version of this:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu..._GM-5400T.aspx
used 2 years ago and it's still going strong powering to standard mount 10" Pioneers. I'd say keep your subs/amps the same brand, just my opinion. I'd say get this one:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...RS-D2200T.aspx.
That's a good side btw. I just bought my head unit there.

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2006 Ford Ranger FX4 Level II
torsion bar crank, 32x11.50R15's, DSG Alcoa's, S10 Blazer short OHC, black interior, Sonar projector headlights, taillight mod, Nightshades, hood/grille blackout, glasspack and resonator tip side exhaust, Xtang Blackmagic tonneau cover, THE original STX swap.
1986 Ford Bronco XLT
2013 Ford Focus SE

^those amps will only power each sub at 95RMS/150RMS respectively, and the sub can handle up to 300RMS. I suggest finding an amp that will at least power them to 200RMS.

Or, most modern amps come with a "line out" RCA jacks, you can run two amps, one for each sub. it will still be a mono channel though.
-TD

__________________
2002 Red Mazda B2300
Short Cab, Short Bed, Pioneer sound system:
DEH-P5100UB deck, dual USB/aux inputs, single CD, organic display, remote
4 TS-A6872R 40 watt nominal speakers
2 TS-SW2501S4 250 watt nominal 10" subwoofers