Looks good. Glad to see another young member who's into audio and building/paying for things themselves instead of having mommy and daddy get it all for you. By the way, your subs are upside down.

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Mods: Xcal 2, K&N Drop-In, Line-X, DSG Heads/Corners, 6000k Hi/Low HID's, 6K HID Fogs, Foglight Mod, Throttle Cable Mod, 6.5" Digital Designs, Rockford P400.4, 2 Sundown SA-15's, MB Quart DSC 2000.1d, Cranked T-Bars, 285/75/R16 Nitto Terra Grapplers

Nice setup

Ya your subs are upside down

Your not that far from Springfield Mo either.

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Yeah, upside down subs are what you get when your so excited you get in a hurry haha.

I actually just got done re-striping the side of the truck, and painting bumber, grill, wheel well trim, and bed toppers all by my lonesome. Ive been working minimum wage at a local body shop, ive picked up some tips haha.

I do alot of shopping at Creative Car Audio there.

nice system! ive done a crap load of stuff to vehicles but ive never wired up an amp or sub so i guess ill learn that when i get some spare cash haha theres other stuff on my list besides that for now

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1990 Ranger Extended Cab
2.9L V6 5 Speed Transmission
Planning to put a 347 and a T-5 in it eventually

nice system there buddy, 2 12"kickers like those must really hit like a bomb, you must have a good head for that i run a single 6inch subdriver JLAUDIO 6W3v3 in mine at only 120watts and sometimes i get a headache, nice speakers as well 9x13 in the cab, damn those are huge, what's total rms in your system? just curious i got 320total and it can shake the windows like hell your system must be wickedly awesome

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the little winter beater ...I still gotta figure out why I drive this darn 2wd thing when I drive an all wheel drive truck in the summer seriously what the F**K is up with that?!

Nice job on the pos and neg runs to the battery. Most people are like OMG NO YOU HAVE TO HAVE THE GROUND WIRE BE LESS THAN 3 FEET!!11!!!!

Where did you run them? Through the firewall? I found a drain plug inside of my pass. jumpseat that's big enough to fit 2 runs of 1/0. I just ran it along my framerail and to the engine bay.

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1997 Ford Ranger 2.3L
It's lowered and stuff.
My Build Thread

i have a 2003 ranger and i have two JL 12'' W7 subs powered by a 2000 watt amp and it knocks harder than anything i have heard before

wow if that ground wire goes all the way to the battery you need to change it! A ground wire for the amp need to be as short as possible to avoid adding resistance to the load.

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1997 Ranger Splash 4x4 supercab 4.0v6

See, that's where most people fail.

Your negative on your battery is attached to your chassis, which is steel. Copper>steel conductive wise. So, instead of having 3 feet of copper and 10 feet of steel you have to pass your current through, you can just have 13 feet of copper.

And there's no resistance on your ground terminal. Whoever told you that doesn't know shit about shit.

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1997 Ford Ranger 2.3L
It's lowered and stuff.
My Build Thread

wow so the fact that i am an MECP Master certified installer and have been installing car audio for 18 years means that i know nothing? If he were to take that truck to a certified audio show he would not be allowed to compete simply due to the fact that the ground wire is hooked up incorrectly. Ever hear a 4 channel amp with motor noise? That is usually caused by to much resistance on the ground wire. The chassis of the vehicle is what is considered the ground plane of the vehicle. The battery is grounded to the chassis to complete the circuit from the alternator for charging. The case of the alternator is also grounded to the block and the body. !2v electricity does not flow from positive to negative like most people think. It travels from negative to positive. When you run a ground wire to the battery it will work.... however it is not the best way to do it. Think of it this way... if running the ground wire to the battery was the best way to do it then where is there only 1 wire hooked to your negative terminal of the battery? Every ECU and BCM are ground as close as possible to the actual unit themselves.

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1997 Ranger Splash 4x4 supercab 4.0v6

anyway to the original thread starter i hope you enjoy your new system.

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1997 Ranger Splash 4x4 supercab 4.0v6

OH MY GOD. Engine noise/whine is caused by the RCA's being to close to the power wire. Your audio signal is being interfered with by the power wire, thus causing a whine that corresponds to your engine RPM.

Your ground terminal on your battery is hooked to the chassis. So, you're saying that you would rather your ground wire be attached to less-conductive steel rather than a straight shot of copper all the way back to your battery?

Your MECP-ness isn't at all flattering. Just because you install systems the way someone else taught you to doesn't mean you're an audio god.

You're telling me that if you walled off an excursion with 12 15's, you would attach each of your ground wires to your chassis and not to the batteries?

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1997 Ford Ranger 2.3L
It's lowered and stuff.
My Build Thread

actually i ran a 50,000 watt system in my 88 subaru wagon as a pure spl car and took second in the world with 171.4db in 2001. had ten batteries linked with buss bars and grounded to the chassis. Its not a matter of better conductor as far as steel to copper goes. Think of it this way... which would you rather have a single run of say 4 awg ground all the way to your battery as your ground, or chassis ground your amp which basically is the equivalent of 50 runs of zero gauge?

Oh and master certification from mecp just show installation knowledge as determined by the best of the best installers industry wide, not that i learned how to do it someone else's way.

Oh and btw engine noise in an audio system is called.... are you ready?... a ground loop...

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1997 Ranger Splash 4x4 supercab 4.0v6