I'm running my system with a 4 channel amp. Two door speakers are amped, and the rear are bridged for my subwoofer. I would like to have two tweeters on the dash. Do I have to get another amp? How would you do it? I have 75rms two each door, and 150 to the sub.

__________________
Drive fast, take chances...

Personally, I'd go with a matched component set and mount the two closer together. This will allow you to run both the mid and the tweeter on your existing amp, it will include the crossover, and can probably be had for less hassle and money than another amp and wiring kit.

__________________
2004 Edge 2wd 3.0 5spd Ext Cab
Sonic "still think I'm a teenager" Blue

truly simpler for sure but what may be a hassle/additional funds for some may not be the ideal answer for all of course.


Ideally, you could use that amp to run all of the mids and tweets as a true 4 channel.

The two front channels would run the front tweeters, the two rear channels running the front mids. This would depending o the amp allow you to utilize the active crossovers in the amplifier instead of the passive ones and with some good tuning would sound better. More separation and better imaging would result on top of the sound-staging effects.

Then a separate dedicated lower frequency amp for the sub(s). this would keep that original 4 channel amp from heating up prematurely which affects sound Q similar to that of an overly hot engine in hot climates would.

The tweeters should be mounted as close as you can to the mids and as equally apart from the drivers head or the center of the vehicle as possible, i.g. the distance between kick panels in time alignment is better and distance wise more even say than door panels installed speakers or say even worse,.., dash speakers from the listeners ears.

Some arguments may remain as to whats better, the primary drivers ear placement or that of the entire passenger compartment. Personally, I spend more time in my vehicle than anyone else ad with that, if everything is setup right, it SHOULD be a vast improvement over what the passenger(s) may be used to anyway so.. lol

http://www.cdtaudio.com/installs/speaker_placement.htm

Here's a good source to read, of course everyone hears something different so you have to kind of play around with things. But this gives you some of the basics when it comes to time alignment and proper speaker placement rules if you will. the creativity in the installation thereof is of course based upon as I said, the listener.

__________________
_______________________

My Build Pg. Threads
+ 93' Ranger Overlanding Build
+ 94' Ranger Bed Overlanding Trailer Build
+ 12° North Industries ~ I Support

You could run them off your headunit as long as you use some type of crossover be it built into your HU or an inline external bass blocker type deal.

I wouldn't run it that way but you could if need be.

__________________

not to bust your balls but, if you wouldn't do it knowing it wouldn't be a good solution why would you suggest it?

Im not even going to bring up the obvious fact that the amplifier already has an active HP crossover in it.

__________________
_______________________

My Build Pg. Threads
+ 93' Ranger Overlanding Build
+ 94' Ranger Bed Overlanding Trailer Build
+ 12° North Industries ~ I Support

What deck what amp and what speakers do you have currently? A bit of t/a would raise the stage way up. Our door speakers are high enough that for regular listening you really don't need a higher mounted tweeter. However, if you want one then you want one. Something small would do the trick to just help raise the stage a touch. This can be easily crossed with a cap and ran off deck power. Something like the Dayton ND16FA would be perfect. Cross it to play from 5000 and up give or take.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

----------

That doesn't help if it isn't meant to run an active front stage though. Your run of the mill budget 4ch uses the same 50-200 or whatever crossover for both high and low. If it doesn't have a 10x multiplier then it's no help in this situation.




Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

__________________
2008 Sport 4x4, Pro Comp D windows, 265/75R16's, leather, JVC double DIN, Kenwood 5-1/4 components, Clarion XR2420, 4 - 8" Dayton Audio SD215A-88 in 3.6ft^3 @ 38hz

Not everyone can afford to do it the way i would, i just suggested an economical alternative that pretty much anyone can afford to implement.

I do not know Troy's full situation and just gave my opinion based on the description in the original post.

I did not state it wouldn't work good, everyone has their own ideal end goals.

__________________