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  #1  
Old 11-19-2013, 07:20 PM
jschrades jschrades is offline
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Default Sub & Amp Qs & sub metal cap rattles!

Hey everyone,

I have an Audiopipe 12" shallow sub.
Specs: Audiopipe TS-F1200 Single Voice Coil 12" Flat Subwoofer, 2000 Watts Power (PMPO), 1000 Watts Power (RMS), Frequency Response 25-1000Hz, Sensitivity 91 dB, Composite Foam Surround One Piece PP Cone, Chromed Rigid Pipe Steel Basket, 5.5" 4 ohms 2-Layer Black Aluminum Voice Coil, Nomex Spider, Mounting Depth 105mm (4.13"), 80 Oz Magnet (TSF1200 TS F1200 TSF-1200 Audio Pipe)[/SIZE]

(Source: http://salestores.com/audiopipetsf.h...A#.UowYimS4E_4)

The amp that I received with it is a Majestic 400W Bridgeable Four Channel.

I got my Ranger in october'13 and love it. The first thing I did to it was get a sub and amp, but I'll admit right out that do to my student sized budget I went the craigslist route for this set.

On songs with deeper bass, it sounds pretty good, but songs that hit hard but not that low, the metal cap on it rattles really bad. I attempted a quick fix of ductaping (yeah, I did) the metal piece to try and reduce the rattling, but it was not effective enough.

I don't know much about configuring car audio, especially when it comes to pairing subs and amps. I definitely bought the set hastily because I really wanted some punch, and I got a cheap deal. My questions really fall to a couple areas:

Any ideas on how to get the metal cap to not rattle so bad? Some songs it's really unbearable.

I've discovered this type of amp isn't ideal for a sub.. is this 400W four channel (only to the amp) making me miss out on sub performance? Is there anyway this is tied to the rattling?

Thank you everyone for any guidance on this.. I'm up for any suggestions on whether this set is truly doable for good bass.
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Jordan
2005 Ford Ranger XL Reg. Cab 4Cyl 5spd stick
Oxford WhiteRhino Lining, Diamond Plate Tool Box, 12 inch Audiopipe Shallow subwoofer, Tinted windows, Black window rain guards & black bug deflector
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  #2  
Old 11-19-2013, 09:42 PM
casey.mikl casey.mikl is offline
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Post pics of the sub. The rattling is the sub itself? The amp is for door speakers not a sub. It won't put out a sufficient about of power for the sub. Also shallow mounts aren't gonna sound super boomy like a normal sub. I have a pioneer champion shallow mount 12 and love it. But took it out and am putting in an alpine type r 8 in a couple days. But if the cap is loose maybe try to super glue it down? But if you do gotta make sure the glue doesn't get to coils or the suspension system of the sub. Or it will be stuck and won't move at all.

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1997 B2300 reg cab 2.3 Lima, 15x8.5 Mickey Thompson classic 2, 31x10.50 cooper discover at3, 7.5 open 4.10 rear, dynomax super turbo catback, alpine iva-w200 w/ nav, kicker 6x8s, alpine type R 8, alpine 250W mono amp, power bass 400.4, tool box & camper shell, compustar alarm/remote start.
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:43 PM
Jaws Ranger Jaws Ranger is offline
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I had a sub that rattled... When I pressed on it, it went away so I just threw it away lol

ford4thot is my bff
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  #4  
Old 11-19-2013, 09:45 PM
casey.mikl casey.mikl is offline
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I had a pair of db drives that the spider came loose from the chassis and rattled like crazy. I got some 3000psi clear epoxy and put that on the spider and clamped it to the chassis. Good as new. And they pounded.

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1997 B2300 reg cab 2.3 Lima, 15x8.5 Mickey Thompson classic 2, 31x10.50 cooper discover at3, 7.5 open 4.10 rear, dynomax super turbo catback, alpine iva-w200 w/ nav, kicker 6x8s, alpine type R 8, alpine 250W mono amp, power bass 400.4, tool box & camper shell, compustar alarm/remote start.
1956 Ford F100 rust bucket with big plans!
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:05 PM
jschrades jschrades is offline
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image-3305639791.jpg

It seems to be the sub... I was messing around with it and applied pressure on the cap when the rattling was going on, and that suppressed it a bit.

I was thinking about the super glue- thanks for the heads up on being careful on where it gets in to.

Jaws... Are you saying you threw out the whole sub or the cap?

So looks like if I really want to do it right, I need to get a proper amp.

Thanks for the info already keep it coming if there's more!
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Jordan
2005 Ford Ranger XL Reg. Cab 4Cyl 5spd stick
Oxford WhiteRhino Lining, Diamond Plate Tool Box, 12 inch Audiopipe Shallow subwoofer, Tinted windows, Black window rain guards & black bug deflector
G O B E A V S
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:07 PM
Jaws Ranger Jaws Ranger is offline
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Lol the whole sub, but I was a different sub than that, it was only $50

ford4thot is my bff
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96 Ford Ranger 2.3 - Loads of mods
03 DSG Mustang GT 5 spd- CAI, Flowmaster cat back, Sequential tail lights, 70mm T.B. 265/305
1992 GMC C1500 4.3 Long Bed 91K
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  #7  
Old 11-19-2013, 10:13 PM
casey.mikl casey.mikl is offline
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Get propor amp and a new sub sounds like to me

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----------

If the entire sub makes noise when you press down on it then I bet it's blown. I would get a class d amp or a 2 channel for the sub and use that 4 channel to hook up to your door speakers.

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1997 B2300 reg cab 2.3 Lima, 15x8.5 Mickey Thompson classic 2, 31x10.50 cooper discover at3, 7.5 open 4.10 rear, dynomax super turbo catback, alpine iva-w200 w/ nav, kicker 6x8s, alpine type R 8, alpine 250W mono amp, power bass 400.4, tool box & camper shell, compustar alarm/remote start.
1956 Ford F100 rust bucket with big plans!
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  #8  
Old 11-21-2013, 02:12 AM
GLH GLH is offline
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Default Re: Sub & Amp Qs & sub metal cap rattles!

Good luck finding a mono amp that will do a true 1000 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. I doubt the sub will actually handle that anyway. There are alot of good mono amps that will work just fine with that sub. You should get one with a subsonic filter that limits the lowest freqs that are sent to the sub since it won't play very low anyway. I would say 40 hz is about as low as you should ask it to play. If your headunit has lowpass settings, set it to somewhere around 80-120 hz and set your sub amp crossover to full or through or off. If you don't have dedicated sub controls built into your headunit, use the crossover on the sub amp you get.

This 2 channel is a good deal on a good amp that can be bridged to give your sub a solid 500 watts RMS. You can just set the crossover to HPF and 40 hz and use the headunit lowpass also, or if your headunit don't have sub controls or lowpass, just set it on LPF and 80-120 hz.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777M225....html?tp=35757
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  #9  
Old 11-21-2013, 02:12 AM
GLH GLH is offline
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Posts: 8,818
Default Re: Sub & Amp Qs & sub metal cap rattles!

Good luck finding a mono amp that will do a true 1000 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. I doubt the sub will actually handle that anyway. There are alot of good mono amps that will work just fine with that sub. You should get one with a subsonic filter that limits the lowest freqs that are sent to the sub since it won't play very low anyway. I would say 40 hz is about as low as you should ask it to play. If your headunit has lowpass settings, set it to somewhere around 80-120 hz and set your sub amp crossover to full or through or off. If you don't have dedicated sub controls built into your headunit, use the crossover on the sub amp you get.

This 2 channel is a good deal on a good amp that can be bridged to give your sub a solid 500 watts RMS. You can just set the crossover to HPF and 40 hz and use the headunit lowpass also, or if your headunit don't have sub controls or lowpass, just set it on LPF and 80-120 hz.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777M225....html?tp=35757
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