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  #16  
Old 02-27-2018, 07:58 PM
bassgod334 bassgod334 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 4
Default Re: Battery draining

Well theres also the chance after each start up your battery is used and your alternator is actually not functioning properly therefore not resupplying the juice back to the battery. I'm not sure about you but I know the system in my truck especially when sitting at an idle, takes more power than my alternator is capable of giving. Which shortens their life greatly.

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  #17  
Old 03-20-2018, 12:43 PM
dvrich dvrich is offline
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Default Re: Battery draining

Quote:
Originally Posted by bassgod334 View Post
Well theres also the chance after each start up your battery is used and your alternator is actually not functioning properly therefore not resupplying the juice back to the battery. I'm not sure about you but I know the system in my truck especially when sitting at an idle, takes more power than my alternator is capable of giving. Which shortens their life greatly.

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High power stereos should be powered by deep cycle gel cell batteries only.
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  #18  
Old 03-20-2018, 07:35 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
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Default Re: Battery draining

Quote:
Originally Posted by rangerXbassboss View Post
that may be it i let my buddy do it... Anyway to figure out if that's it...?
Quote:
Originally Posted by GLH View Post
The yellow power wire from the head is constant power for memory. it goes to the battery. The red power wire from the head is switched power. It goes to an accessory fuse in the fusebox.

Far easier way to figure out such a simple wiring issue. If you can turn the radio on when the vehicle is off, its wired incorrectly. If the radio doesnt hold a memory, like clock or stations. its incorrectly wired. - simple. Best way to think about it is this: All aftermarket radios come with a "red" wire and a "Yellow" wire. ~ Red is wrong. The metaphor here is everyone assumes "red" is hot or constant power, its not.. Yellow is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hergy916 View Post
That was your voltage when the truck was running? If so, that's too low. Should be closer to 14.4 with the engine running. Corrosion could also be the problem. Clean your terminals and test again. Even if this doesn't solve your problem it needs to be dealt with.
IF its the amps that are the concern here is a SO MUCH FASTER way to calculate the issue. Take both amps, somewhere on one end is the fuse(s). Add them up. If you have two amps and one amp has 2 @ 20amps, the other has 3 @ 30 amp fuses. you have 40+90 amps of power = 130 amps of draw. At 3/4 volume you may find depending on quality of said amps and their power supplies that you're bordering on near 75-90amps of draw.

You said its a 93 Ranger? it has a 95 amp alt to it. And less than 5 amps goes to charge the battery, the rest goes to running the vehicle and its various accessories while the truck is in motion. People act like all that Alt power goes right into the battery. the battery runs all of the extra things like lights, wipers, radio, aux features, phones charging on cig lighter plugs, fog lights.. etc.. Hell, your phone is likely charging on a 2.1a charger. headlights are around 20a-30a ea in some cases. PLUS, if you got a penchant for stepping on that vertical pedal often from stop light to stop light on "cruise night" guess whats going on?

Your battery isn't getting a sufficient charge with all that going on. So over time whether that's a month or 6 months, you've slowly been killing that battery. Eventually you will kill the Alt too. I've actually had a vehicle where the ECU controlled Alt voltage and because of that and the Amplifier which drew a 120A at full tilt. I'd kill a battery one year, the alt the next, back to the battery, and then the alt would take a shit again. Shameless plug for the guys over at 12* North for my upgrade. I didnt feel I had enough going on to warrant a 300a alt but you may want to consider the same alt. https://www.12degnorth.com/product-p...-92-00-4-0l-v6. NOW, you can run all your accessories, the vehicle, and charging system effectively. Even if you dont go with them, there are companies that you can source that have alts that will work. Stay away from the rewinds UNLESS they're rewinding as a custom setup otherwise you'll likely have issues sooner than later again.

I dont have a large system in my truck anymore but I easily have 135a of LED lighting and other accessories that use it up along with a dual battery system and 3 batteries (one crank battery, 2 deep cycles).

Quote:
Originally Posted by dvrich View Post
High power stereos should be powered by deep cycle gel cell batteries only.
Thats a huge matter of opinion and usage.. as well as old school thought processes. May as well ask who makes the best oil filter for argument.

Deep cycles are meant for L O N G and slow power drains, not bursts of power draw from large stereo systems. Just like the reason why you dont put a Winch on a deep cycle.. you'll kill it with any moderate use let alone heavy use. What helps is additional batteries. The more batteries the more AH (amp hours) which extends EOKO parking lot use. and Gel cell batteries are also old school thinking and although the myth of them freezing in cold weather is partially untrue, they actually work well in cold weather but charging in cold weather when not used enough does to lead to failures, many which are due to OP errors.

You would do best to use an AGM battery to which many companies offer, I prefer Exide but that's merely my preference and much like that damn oil filter argument, you aren't going to get a fanboy of Optima or Interstate batteries to move on their opinions despite knowing Interstate MAKES Optima batteries itself. I do me, more than 2 decades in 12volt.. I just do me and offer my $ .02 on the subject,
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Last edited by Undrstm8ed; 03-20-2018 at 07:39 PM.
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