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mfernandes
06-19-2011, 03:44 PM
Well, I made myself this "how-to" where I explain step-by-step how to replace the steering column ignition cylinder as well as the door locks cylinders.


HOW-TO REPLACE IGNITION AND DOOR LOCKS CYLINDERS:

Tools you will need:
Metallic punch or long flat screwdriver
Long clamp
WD-40 oil spray


What we will replace:
We will replace the steering wheel ignition cylinder and both door locks cylinders

I bought the OEM parts. The box included:
-one ignition cylinder (black)
-two door locks cylinders (came with wires and connectors for power locks)
-a set of two OEM Ford Keys
-glove box compartment lock (I’m not using that)

http://i.imgur.com/8ULKW.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Q6lyU.jpg

I send the spare key back to US where that key was duplicated; now I have a set of 6 OEM keys (yes I’m insane!)

http://i.imgur.com/6bgWn.jpg



Procedure A: Replacing the ignition cylinder

SAFETY FIRST: Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. This might prevent damages to certain components of the ignition module


1-Once the battery is disconnected, we can begin with our job

2-“To remove the ignition cylinder from its housing the steering plastic surround must be removed”: FALSE!!!


The job is easier than expected. No plastic trim or surrounding must be removed. To remove the ignition cylinder, put it in the LOCK position.

After that, insert the metallic punch or long flat screwdriver on the hole shown in the picture below:

http://i.imgur.com/YxMjV.jpg

Press the punch or screwdriver upwards and using your other hand, remove the complete assy of the ignition cylinder, with the key on it

After the old ignition cylinder is removed, put the new one in the same position (LOCK) and simply slide it in.


It will only fit in one position. Look at it carefully, and simply align the streaks in it with the steering column streaks. It’s a direct fit, there’s only one way to fit this in.

Once the new cylinder is on its place, test it.

Insert the new key and scroll all the positions in order to check it works fine; OFF – ACCESORY – OFF – ON – START. Do this a couple of times in order to ensure the correct functionality.

This is the new ignition cylinder:

http://i.imgur.com/FsnKR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/1WpNc.jpg

DONE WITH THE IGNITION CYLINDER!!!


Procedure B: Replacing both door locks cylinders


“In order to remove both door locks cylinders the inside door panel must be removed” FALSE AGAIN!!!

There’s no need to remove the interior panels of the door, once again this is a much easier job than expected.

Open the door and locate the black tab shown in the picture below:

http://i.imgur.com/zeRYS.jpg

In order to remove the lock cylinder that black tab is the only thing that should be removed. NOTHING ELSE!

To remove it, you might need to lubricate it (sometimes with dust it can be stacked, like in my case). A WD-40 spray oil will be your best friend for this job.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/woeimages/Engine/544.jpg

Introduce the can spray tool (plastic stick) inside the tab groove and apply just a small amount of oil. Using the clamp just pop out that tab and the lock cylinder is now ready to be replaced.

Using your fingers, remove the cylinder from the outside; disconnecting the metallic rod with activates/deactivates the lock.

The replacement cylinders I’ve got had the connectors for the power locks. As my truck has manual locks, I remove it and replaced with the white tab which came with my original locks.

This is the connector removed:

http://i.imgur.com/Mp6Fb.jpg

Once the original white tab is fit in, attach it to the metallic rod and simply slide the cylinder in the door hole.

After it’s in place, test it several times. Make sure it locks and unlocks correctly.

Once it’s tested, simply slide in the black tab which was removed in first place. Make sure it holds properly the lock cylinder.

In the picture below, I show the interior of the door and how the mechanism must look like once everything is in place, including the original white tab, the rod mechanism as well as the black tab which holds the cylinder in place:

http://i.imgur.com/IQbWr.jpg

Now you’re done!!! Enjoy your new locks and ignition cylinder.
(Obviously, repeat this procedure for the other door)

Here are some pictures of the final results:

http://i.imgur.com/1kkdO.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/OfCDZ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/1WpNc.jpg

Hope you like it... I know its a small contribution ;)

pooleo
06-19-2011, 04:01 PM
:worthless:

And the HOW TO...!!!!!


lol, j/k

mfernandes
06-19-2011, 04:22 PM
there we go... "ape style" worked just fine I gues :D

pooleo
06-19-2011, 04:39 PM
Nice write up, you foreign guys got some pretty strange keys! :eek:

mfernandes
06-19-2011, 05:49 PM
Nice write up, you foreign guys got some pretty strange keys! :eek:

No no... thats an OEM key made in USA pal! It doesnt have transponder, but its a 96-97 american oem key set! All the set is MADE IN USA!

The keychain was from a Mercury 63 my grandfather owned, that was the very same keychain that car had when leaved the production line in Michigan back in the 60s! ;)

cacher
08-01-2011, 07:51 PM
Just an fyi from a guy that used to rekey these, you can pull them all out, and have them rekeyed at a lock shop, then put them back into their appropriate slots. Also, stash one or two original keys in your safe, or safe place, to make copies off of in the future. Unfortunately, the time may come when these/this key may break at those deep cuts in the key, from normal wear, and tear.

relapssranger
08-01-2011, 10:33 PM
also the ignition instructions dont work for 93 maybe 94??

mfernandes
10-10-2011, 05:59 PM
Im an idiot... I havent seen this in months.

Yes, 1 hided one key in the truck chasis... just in case the key breaks or maybe if I lock the truck with the key inside... the rest are in my safe.

I belive the ignition procedure is the same for 93-94... check for the hole in the lower steering column trim pal.

GonzoSS
08-01-2012, 12:44 PM
Great write-up but need to make a correction as I just tried to do this.

When changing the Ignition on post 1994, the key needs to be in the "ON" position. Otherwise, the button on the bottom will not press in. Same for putting in the new ignition, it must be turned to "ON". This took me a few minutes to figure out, so I thought it would be worthwhile to update this thread.

This is also a safety feature, so someone cannot steal your truck by taking out the ignition and putting in a different one with his key.

loganthoeni
09-23-2012, 08:01 AM
working on a 96 for ranger 4cyl (pre march of 96) thought the job was going to be easy, but when i slide everything into place the key will not turn to the off or to the start positions. Its completely locked up!and she needs to get to work tommorow :eek:
I am going to take the whole tree a part today but i would like to know if im doing something wrong.

PS: the new ignition post march of 96 could start the engine but i couldnt take the key out.:confused:

help me out here guys

loganthoeni
09-23-2012, 11:19 AM
:damnmate:

Thats what you get for working in the dark...

If anyone else runs into this problem make sure the inside of the cylinder is lined up correctly and that you have the yoke all the way in. (i had to wiggle twist and wiggle some more to get mine in).

mfernandes
09-23-2012, 11:24 AM
:damnmate:

Thats what you get for working in the dark...

If anyone else runs into this problem make sure the inside of the cylinder is lined up correctly and that you have the yoke all the way in. (i had to wiggle twist and wiggle some more to get mine in).

Glado yuo could finaly do it. Yes, the cylinder has to be perfectly aligned and in ON possition.

KyBucks10
09-24-2012, 09:46 AM
Question. My ignition in my truck has that awesome feature (like most every Ranger out there) where you can pull the key out with it in any position. Id like to replace mine now that I see how easy it is, but my question is which ignition did you guys buy? I was looking on Rock Auto, but they range in price from $15-$50. I don't want to be a cheap-o, but at the same time, I don't want to over kill it either. What did yall pay, and which specific brand did yall get?

Thanks!

mfernandes
09-24-2012, 10:01 AM
I bought the oem ford, as you can see on the pics.

Check this one out: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Ranger-Pickup-Ignition-Key-Switch-Lock-Cylinder-Door-Lock-Set-Black-Face-/140739916710?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c4c0b3a6&vxp=mtr

Dune Runner
10-10-2012, 06:29 PM
Ok I have a question. When you change out the door locks can you change over the rod through the hole in the door? Or does the door panel have to come off? Im going to have to do this soon.

tommyarmour
01-22-2013, 12:25 PM
Ok I have a question. When you change out the door locks can you change over the rod through the hole in the door? Or does the door panel have to come off? Im going to have to do this soon.

I have this same question. I just bought a 99 ford ranger sport and the drivers side key hole is stripped out and ruined so I was going to do this job myself. I just cannot imagine how you can disconnect that rod from the back of the cylinder and change them over. From this thread write up it seems too good to be true. Connecting and disconnection that rod through the tiny little hole the cylinder leaves seems to be impossible. I would like to know if you did yours yet. And how it went for you?

As far as I can see the door panel removal is going to be a must. :confused: BTW Ive been wrong before, :)

mfernandes
01-22-2013, 01:51 PM
I have this same question. I just bought a 99 ford ranger sport and the drivers side key hole is stripped out and ruined so I was going to do this job myself. I just cannot imagine how you can disconnect that rod from the back of the cylinder and change them over. From this thread write up it seems too good to be true. Connecting and disconnection that rod through the tiny little hole the cylinder leaves seems to be impossible. I would like to know if you did yours yet. And how it went for you?

As far as I can see the door panel removal is going to be a must. :confused: BTW Ive been wrong before, :)

It IS possible to disconnect and remove the door lock cylinder from the hole in the door, you just have to twist it a little bit.

If you want to change the entire rod, you will have to remove the panel and work on the inside of the door.

Its not a difficult job, and removing the door trim is a piece of cake: 2 screws on the handle, anotherone behind that bezel and a 4th on the lower corner of the trim (next to the door ventilation). You will find a 5th. screw (torx) behind the window handle if you have manual windows. Push up the entire door trim and youre done.

Hope that helps

tommyarmour
01-23-2013, 09:01 AM
It IS possible to disconnect and remove the door lock cylinder from the hole in the door, you just have to twist it a little bit.

If you want to change the entire rod, you will have to remove the panel and work on the inside of the door.

Its not a difficult job, and removing the door trim is a piece of cake: 2 screws on the handle, anotherone behind that bezel and a 4th on the lower corner of the trim (next to the door ventilation). You will find a 5th. screw (torx) behind the window handle if you have manual windows. Push up the entire door trim and youre done.

Hope that helps

Yes that does help greatly. Thanks you very much!!!!! :)

Now I just have a question about one other thing. I only need to do the drivers side door. Would you suggest buying the entire set to have the same key? Or would you just change out the one? I guess it's personal preference. Where did you buy your locks from? BTW I do have manual windows. :(

mfernandes
01-23-2013, 09:22 AM
Yes that does help greatly. Thanks you very much!!!!! :)

Now I just have a question about one other thing. I only need to do the drivers side door. Would you suggest buying the entire set to have the same key? Or would you just change out the one? I guess it's personal preference. Where did you buy your locks from? BTW I do have manual windows. :(

As you sayed its personal. Offcourse it would be best to find the entire oem set. I found one here in Uruguay; ignition cylinder, both door locks and 2 sets of oem keys, all Ford oem and new!! Just $100.

If you dont mind having 2 sets of keys (1 for the door and 1 for the ignition) thats also ok

tommyarmour
01-23-2013, 12:08 PM
As you sayed its personal. Offcourse it would be best to find the entire oem set. I found one here in Uruguay; ignition cylinder, both door locks and 2 sets of oem keys, all Ford oem and new!! Just $100.

If you dont mind having 2 sets of keys (1 for the door and 1 for the ignition) thats also ok

The ignition is so easy to change it would be silly not to do the entire set at the same time.

I found them on ebay for under 80.

Well actually I found the link in this forum I think. LOL

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140739916710&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

mfernandes
01-23-2013, 02:31 PM
The ignition is so easy to change it would be silly not to do the entire set at the same time.

I found them on ebay for under 80.

Well actually I found the link in this forum I think. LOL

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140739916710&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

That "wolf" guy is awesome!!! My set came with 2 keys only, and I wanted 4 (just in case). So instead of buying 2 blank keys and do them here, I mailed this guy one of the keys and he cuted them there in the US (I think he was from Georgia). He then mailed me all the 3 keys back to Uruguay.

Great guy, get those from him! Dont even doubt about it!!!!

tommyarmour
01-23-2013, 06:03 PM
That "wolf" guy is awesome!!! My set came with 2 keys only, and I wanted 4 (just in case). So instead of buying 2 blank keys and do them here, I mailed this guy one of the keys and he cuted them there in the US (I think he was from Georgia). He then mailed me all the 3 keys back to Uruguay.

Great guy, get those from him! Dont even doubt about it!!!!

Sweet sounds like a plan. Only thing holding me back is the damn drivers side door is sprung. It closes tight and seals when you slam it. And it springs open when you open it. I wasn't sure if a new cylinder would do ok in a door with this issue or not. Thinking about it, it should't matter too much. I just want to be able to protect my belongings in the truck and possibly get a cheapo bluetooth stereo. :) Hands free for me, I cannot stand people that talk on the phone or text and drive. :eviltongue:

Bob C. of Indiana
01-23-2013, 06:08 PM
That "wolf" guy is awesome!!! My set came with 2 keys only, and I wanted 4 (just in case). So instead of buying 2 blank keys and do them here, I mailed this guy one of the keys and he cuted them there in the US (I think he was from Georgia). He then mailed me all the 3 keys back to Uruguay.

Great guy, get those from him! Dont even doubt about it!!!!

X2 on the Wolf guy

mfernandes
01-23-2013, 07:25 PM
Sweet sounds like a plan. Only thing holding me back is the damn drivers side door is sprung. It closes tight and seals when you slam it. And it springs open when you open it. I wasn't sure if a new cylinder would do ok in a door with this issue or not. Thinking about it, it should't matter too much. I just want to be able to protect my belongings in the truck and possibly get a cheapo bluetooth stereo. :) Hands free for me, I cannot stand people that talk on the phone or text and drive. :eviltongue:

>>> I dont understand your issue... my english disctionary froze!!!

X2 on the Wolf guy

>>> If the guy took his time to recieve my keys, do the copy to the blank ones and ship everything 5000 miles away and everything was perfect, you can trust this guy! Really A+++!

lorisweet
06-24-2013, 04:32 AM
my truck is a 1994 5spd 2.3. where is the hole that you used the screwdriver on in my vehicle (if you have any of this valuable information) and could you let me know as soon as possible. thank you very much. I am new to this forum TODAY. I broke my key off tonite and luckily got the truck home but now cannot get the key out of the ignition. Please help if you can.

mfernandes
06-24-2013, 07:53 AM
my truck is a 1994 5spd 2.3. where is the hole that you used the screwdriver on in my vehicle (if you have any of this valuable information) and could you let me know as soon as possible. thank you very much. I am new to this forum TODAY. I broke my key off tonite and luckily got the truck home but now cannot get the key out of the ignition. Please help if you can.

Hi man, sorry, I have no idea of a 94 truck. I think the door frame is the same as mine, but not 100% sure. Did you check on the same spot?
Sorry i can not help you more.

GonzoSS
06-25-2013, 10:47 AM
my truck is a 1994 5spd 2.3. where is the hole that you used the screwdriver on in my vehicle (if you have any of this valuable information) and could you let me know as soon as possible. thank you very much. I am new to this forum TODAY. I broke my key off tonite and luckily got the truck home but now cannot get the key out of the ignition. Please help if you can.

I am not sure on a 94, but I think you have to take off the plastic covering around the steering column. Once you take it off, you will see the access tube at about the 8 o'clock position (when looking at the ignition from the passenger side). When pushing into the tube, you need to push toward the center of the ignition cylinder (not straight up).

One more important thing - you need to turn your ignition to the "ON" position to get the cylinder out. If you do not, the button will not push in (at least it did not for my 2000).

I hope this helps a little bit.

Hey
03-29-2014, 07:24 PM
Does the tab that holds the cylinder in place placed from the inside of door or through the outside????:eek:

mfernandes
03-30-2014, 11:06 AM
Does the tab that holds the cylinder in place placed from the inside of door or through the outside????:eek:

Through the outside, on the B pilar side

the keifer
03-30-2014, 11:51 AM
I am not sure on a 94, but I think you have to take off the plastic covering around the steering column. Once you take it off, you will see the access tube at about the 8 o'clock position (when looking at the ignition from the passenger side). When pushing into the tube, you need to push toward the center of the ignition cylinder (not straight up).

That's what I had to do to my 93 when I replaced mine.

Jrl5735
05-11-2019, 11:18 AM
1994
Ford Ranger V6 4.0 XLT

I've followed the process for replacing a door lock. For whatever reason I cannot remove the tab that holds in the door lock. I've used WD40 and pliers. It'll only come out so far. Tested the passenger side with the same results.

J. Logan

mfernandes
05-11-2019, 11:32 AM
1994
Ford Ranger V6 4.0 XLT

I've followed the process for replacing a door lock. For whatever reason I cannot remove the tab that holds in the door lock. I've used WD40 and pliers. It'll only come out so far. Tested the passenger side with the same results.

J. Logan

If your door has never been taken apart, the tab has been there for 25 years, so keep pulling.
WD40 plus wobbling up and down may help.
If not, take the door interior panel off and try to work it from the inside of the door.

Hope this helps!

Jrl5735
05-11-2019, 03:29 PM
If your door has never been taken apart, the tab has been there for 25 years, so keep pulling.
WD40 plus wobbling up and down may help.
If not, take the door interior panel off and try to work it from the inside of the door.

Hope this helps!

Yup. I've done all that. Took a flathead to edge of the tab from inside and tried to push it through. No luck. Grabbed the tab from the outside with pliers and tried brute force while moving it up and down. Seems like it's stuck in something. I get the same result on the passenger side. It gets hung up on something.