View Full Version : 2600 watt amp + 15 " Kicker CVR question

04-12-2010, 12:09 PM
I have a 2600 watt class D amp and a 15" kicker CVR. It's suppose top be able to handle 500 watt rms 1000 max. (I know your suppose to look at the rms watts.) the amp is rated at 1200 rms at 2 ohms which is what im running at. I have also heard that class D amps ussually convert 20% of power to heat but ut I'm wondering how do I adjust the amp to get the max I can from my speaker without blowing it? and if the amp says 1200 watt rms what is probably the actual rms watts? Thanks for the help :)

04-12-2010, 12:22 PM
So, its a dual 4ohm CVR, correct? If so, then you will be running at 1200rms at full efficiency. On a stock electrical you will most likely not be running at full RMS. So, maybe you will be running 1000rms. In that case, you can use a DMM to calculate your gains (take the output voltage on a speaker terminal, square it, divide by resistance) to calculate what amount of watts your amp is running at. Also, you can just set it by ear. Play the music with all bass enhancement on your settings leveled out at zero, then adjust your gains, then sub levels on your hu and all other stuff until you start hearing distortion.

Basically what I'm saying in a nutshell, is don't run your gains so high if the rms level that the amp puts out is higher than the max power rating on your sub.

04-12-2010, 12:31 PM
yes its a dual 4ohm CVR, but whats a DMM? & do you about how much they are? Sorry for the questions, I just turned 17 and this stuff is fairly new to me. I understand what you saying about everything else. I also remember reading that some amps are rated at something like 15 volt systems when stock cars mostly have 12 volt systems or something like that. Thanks for the info.

just another question, Why are people always setting the bass gains to like negative 6 or more? isn't that taking bass away or does this have to do with distortion too?

04-12-2010, 12:45 PM
It's okay. I'm 18 and I've been reading about car audio for like 2 years now. I still have stuff to learn.

A DMM is a digital multi meter. It calculates like running voltage, amperage, resistance, output voltage, etc. Basically if you want to run a system right, you'll probably need one sooner or later. They;re like $20 at walmart.

The amps that say "2000W RMS at 14.4V" will put out 2000 rms at the stock running voltage of a car. Ignition on, but engine off will yield a 12V reading. The alternator runs with the engine on and charges the battery at the same time. With your car on you will see 14.4V +/- .2V or so.

People modify their electrical with multiple alternators that are HO, or High Output alternators. For instance, my buddy has (2) 230amp alts. Along with a Missing Link Audio module which allows the electrical to run at like 15V. So when you see an amp that puts out 2kw at 14.4V, it'll put out more than that at 15V. But if you've got a 15v system without the amperage to keep it up from your alternators, you will see major voltage drop and power drop from your amp when it puts out that 2kw. So, that 2kw will be there for a moment, but then your voltage wil drop causing the power from your amp to drop and you will no longer see that 2kw.

04-12-2010, 01:02 PM
so when tuning my amp and everything I should have my truck running instead of just the key turned backwards becuase of the little bit more of power? And for 20 bucks im deffinitely going to have to get a DMM i always thought these devices would be much more thanks man.

04-12-2010, 01:08 PM
I hooked up a single blue LED lift to my rear speaker and it hits with the bass when i turn the bass gain up a like +1 are people hooking up interior lights to play with their music? I was just playing around & thought this seemed kinda cool but i dont know what connecting lights to speakers do in the long run or change the ohms or anything.