Ford Ranger Forum - Forums for Ford Ranger enthusiasts! - View Single Post - Discuss How To:Ring and Pinion Gear Install & Inspection

surfer03133 · 08-11-2009, 07:10 PM

got this from a site: figured it would help a lot of people who want to run bigger tires and have 3.73 or lower
Tech Information
Installation Instructions

On this page: Tool List | Disassembly | Inspection | Assembly | Tooth Nomenclature | Patterns | Break In

Please read completely before beginning.

You can expect many years and many miles of dependable use from your differential if it is set up properly and if you use only top quality parts. You already have quality parts if you bought them from West Coast Differentials. By following these instructions carefully, you will achieve proper set up. We have successfully set up thousands of differentials without using a pinion depth setting tool. We sincerely hope that these instructions are helpful.
Tool List

When working on your differential you will need a wide variety of tools. Using the correct tools saves time and helps prevent parts from being damaged. Here is a list of some of the tools that you may need:

* Dial indicator
* Gear marking compound and a clean brush
* Calipers or a micrometer
* Bearing pullers
* Bearing press
* Three foot long breaker bar or strong impact gun
* Pinion nut socket
* Ring gear bolt socket
* Carrier cap bolt socket
* Six point cross pin bolt wrench
* Brake line wrench
* Pry bars for removing the carrier case
* 24 oz ball pein hammer
* 48 oz sledge hammer
* 48 oz plastic dead blow hammer
* Assorted brass punches
* Punch for marking carrier caps
* Oil drain pan
* Foot pounds torque wrench
* Inch pounds torque wrench

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Disassembly

Make sure that you have all the parts and tools you will need. The extent of disassembly depends on the job being done and the inspection findings. Lift the vehicle using an appropriate lift or a jack and safe jack stands. Always make certain that the vehicle is safely supported before working underneath. Unbolt the driveshaft from the yoke. Remove the differential cover or unbolt the third member. Let the oil drain into a suitable container. Please recycle your waste oil. Remove c-clip axles by removing the differential cross pin bolt and cross pin shaft, pushing the axles in and pulling the c-clips. Full float axles are unbolted at the hubs. Punch both carrier caps with identification marks so that you will be able to re-install them on the same side and in the same direction. Most carriers can be pried out of the housing with a pry bar. Further disassembly depends on the job being done. If you’re changing the ring and pinion or the pinion bearings, remove the pinion nut with an air gun while holding the yoke, or use a long breaker bar and brace the yoke (bolt it to a long board) so that it can’t move. Knock the pinion gear out to the rear with a brass punch, taking care not to damage the threads. Keep track of the location and thickness of all of the original shims. Pinion bearings must be pressed off. Carrier bearings can be pulled using a bearing puller. Internal parts (inside the carrier) can be removed as necessary.

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Inspection

Inspect all bearings and races for pitting or uneven wear. The inner carrier bearing races should not spin on the carrier journals. The carrier races should have a snug fit in the housing. Inspect the carrier race bores for grooves from spinning races. The side gear bores inside the carrier should not have any abnormal wear. All gear teeth (including the spider gears) should be smooth but not excessively shiny. Inspect all gear teeth for pitting, chips, breaks, and for signs of uneven wear and overheating. Inspect positraction clutches for scoring and wear. Inspect the axles for pitted, grooved, or dull and rough bearing surfaces. Check for worn axle splines. All questionable parts should be replaced.

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Assembly

Differential Adjustments

The four essential differential adjustments are pinion depth, pinion bearing preload, backlash and carrier bearing preload. The tables at the back can be used to write down shim combinations and results.

Preparing Parts

Clean all new and used parts with clean solvent. Dry the parts. De-burr the back of the ring gear and carrier mounting surface with a file or wet stone. Wash out the housing with solvent and check all of the oil passages for metal particles or dirt that can lead to early wear. Many housings have oil passages to the pinion and grooves just outside of the carrier bearings. Push rags through the axle tubes, using solvent or brake cleaner until they are clean. Polish all seal surfaces with light emery cloth or fine sandpaper and then wipe them with a clean rag and clean oil or solvent to remove metal particles. Use a moderate coat of gear oil (not grease!) on all bearings and grease (not oil) on all seals and seal surfaces just prior to installation.

Initial Assembly

Pinion depth shims either go under the rear pinion race or on the pinion shaft under the rear pinion bearing. The diameter of your shims will determine where they go. Try using the original shim depth for your first attempt. The rear pinion bearing must be pressed on the pinion shaft and the pinion races must be tapped into the housing with a large punch so that they seat evenly. Install the front bearing and carefully tap the pinion seal in place with an old race. Ford 8" and 9", and GM 10.5" and 12.25" use a pilot bearing which must be tapped in, with a retainer for the Fords. Mount the ring gear to the carrier with a drop of red Loctite on each bolt. Carrier bearings are pressed on the carrier and secured with green Loctite. Note that in Dana Spicer differentials the carrier shims go between the carrier and carrier bearings. Again, try using the original shim configuration.

Install Pinion Gear and Set Pinion Bearing Preload

Pinion bearing preload is measured in inch-pounds, and is a measure of the rolling resistance of the pinion bearings after proper torque has been applied to the pinion nut. Set the preload carefully (see "Set Up Specifications") so that the bearings will have a long life. Use oil on the pinion nut washer surface during all assemblies and red Loctite on the pinion nut threads during the final assembly.

Crush Sleeve Design: If you are unsure about getting the correct pinion depth, it may be easier to install the pinion without a crush sleeve until the correct pinion depth has been established. Always use a new crush sleeve for final assembly. Slide the crush sleeve on the pinion shaft (unless you are using the trial and error method) and install the pinion through the rear of the housing. The yoke usually must be tapped on while applying pressure on the pinion gear head to hold it in place. Use an impact wrench or huge breaker bar to apply the torque necessary to crush the sleeve. Proceed very slowly so that you don’t overload the bearings. The pinion preload will be zero until the bearings contact the races but will then increase very quickly. Use an inch-pound torque wrench to check the preload. If the pinion bearing preload exceeds the specified allowable range, install another new crush sleeve and start over.

Preload Shim Design: Clean the shims completely so that there are no particles that may cause a false preload reading or cause the shim stack to change thickness over time as the vehicle is driven. Slide the shim pack over the pinion shaft to the shelf. Use the original shims on the first assembly or add 0.003" to the original preload shims to make up for the bearings settling into the housing. Tighten the pinion nut to approximately 250 foot pounds. Go slowly so as not to damage the bearing if the preload shim stack is not thick enough. Use an inch-pound torque wrench to check the preload. If the preload is too loose then remove shims so that the bearings will be tighter against the races and increase the preload. If the preload is too tight then remove the pinion gear and add shims so that the bearings will not be as tight against the races.

All Designs: After reaching the correct preload, moderately tap both ends of the pinion to seat the bearings, races and yoke. Be careful not to hit the pinion so hard that it damages the bearings. After "seating" the pinion, check the pinion bearing preload again.