5.0 swap thoughts and questions - Page 3

IDM · #31 02-21-2013, 05:57 PM

I misunderstood you. I think it should, but I'm not 100% sure. Check out the Explorer forums and maybe you'll figure it out.

4rdranger · #32 02-22-2013, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IDM

I misunderstood you. I think it should, but I'm not 100% sure. Check out the Explorer forums and maybe you'll figure it out.

NP, I did not ask it vary clearly. I think it should to, but I since the VSS sensor is in the tranny. I think that the wiring would have to be different, at least has to be another wire for the VSS.

street_racer2679 · #33 02-22-2013, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toyoracing

So you're saying or implying you would be willing to take the risk of your newly installed engine and transmission grenading? Because I've seen many set ups that only have so many miles and yet have more problems than one with a lot of miles. I really want to consider a v8 swap but theres a lot of hurtles and considering like I stated that this will possibly be a daily driver, the thought of a v8 toy which sucks gas like water and has the noise characteristics of a Mac truck as well as other short comings still make me wonder about just doing a punched and forged 4l swap or a 4.6 swap. Heck, for the money I may just buy a f150 like my old one and just go balls out on that since I still have many old parts at my brothers shop. Food for thought really, and heck even a light turbo set up on a 3.0 sounds tempting.

Also, do you mean brake stands or burn outs? Because I can do a brake stand all day and a small burn when I want, but a full on rollout, not happening.

My 5.0 ranger is a day driver and as far as MPG goes I get around 18

Psychopete · #34 02-22-2013, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toyoracing

So you're saying or implying you would be willing to take the risk of your newly installed engine and transmission grenading? Because I've seen many set ups that only have so many miles and yet have more problems than one with a lot of miles. I really want to consider a v8 swap but theres a lot of hurtles and considering like I stated that this will possibly be a daily driver, the thought of a v8 toy which sucks gas like water and has the noise characteristics of a Mac truck as well as other short comings still make me wonder about just doing a punched and forged 4l swap or a 4.6 swap.

How is risking putting in a rebuilt or used 5.0L any different than the "forged 4.0l" lol engine that has to be built? Do you even know the differences in piston materials they use? People throw that term around left and right, but I don't think they really understand the pros/cons. How is used or rebuilt 4.6L any different than a 5.0L (besides being more expensive for 4.6L for aftermarket)? Why do you need/want any convincing from us to do an engine swap?

toyoracing · #35 02-25-2013, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Psychopete

How is risking putting in a rebuilt or used 5.0L any different than the "forged 4.0l" lol engine that has to be built? Do you even know the differences in piston materials they use? People throw that term around left and right, but I don't think they really understand the pros/cons. How is used or rebuilt 4.6L any different than a 5.0L (besides being more expensive for 4.6L for aftermarket)? Why do you need/want any convincing from us to do an engine swap?

Although the condescending tone is what I got, I also understand your point. Most engines come with hypernumatic pistons (pardon the spelling please) anymore and they're not good for a whole lot than being strong-ish and cheap, and forged basically being well, forged metals allowing for greater strength but often suffering in daily driveability, like there being more piston slap on initial start up, and the cost if say there was a breakage. And that's why I'm on the ropes because I am weighing the pro's and con's, and having peoples input is shaping what route I actually want to go. As far as the 5.0 being cheaper than a 4.6 is just simply incorrect in the initials especially in the aftermarket. Take a 4.6 pre pi heads from 1997 and earlier, and swap in pi heads from a newer model and you easily have an engine pumping out 260 wheeled HP, port the heads, add bigger valves and you have 330+ wheeled HP. I've owned 3 valve 4.6s in the past and loved them, and in this day and age the 4.6 is the modern day 5.0 with the benefit of being a tad more efficient, lighter and the down sides being complexity and electronics. But even if you got a carb set up you eliminate the complexity.

The main reason I'm looking asking and gathering is because my old lady and I just got a garage added to the house and my truck and her truck will be paid off in a month, so I have time and I want to gather the pro's and con's of all routes since I'll finally have the space and time to get my wrench on. By the way, for all who's posted thanks for the input!

jester03 · #36 03-11-2013, 08:46 PM

As far as I know the 4.6 and the 5.0 motors are about the same the only difference is in the heads so if you buy a 4.6 amd modify the heads you basically have a 5.0 so why not go with the 5.0 from the start

patrickposton92 · #37 03-11-2013, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jester03

As far as I know the 4.6 and the 5.0 motors are about the same the only difference is in the heads so if you buy a 4.6 amd modify the heads you basically have a 5.0 so why not go with the 5.0 from the start

The 4.6 is totally different from the windsor 5.0. I have done many swaps, ive put engines in vehicels that never should have had them. I say 1. The 5.0 is the route you want to go.2. If possible use a 1985 up engine for the roller camshaft. 3. I didnt catch if your truck is 2wd or not, if so go with a t5 five speed and a rear end gear of around 3.23, this will help your mileage on the highway and still give you some giddyup in the lower gears. 3. Depending on the year of your truck a carburated setup would be easier, but fuel injection isint out of the question. 4. any transmission from any small block ford will bolt to a 5.0 engine sizes include 255-260-289-302-351w. I think any t5 from any vehicle will work with the correct input shaft and bellhousing. I can try to field any other questions you may have. Hope this helped.

IDM · #38 03-12-2013, 03:52 PM

The bell housing on my T-5 is from a 93 Mustang. The sn95 bell housing would not fit with my external slave cylinder set up.

patrickposton92 · #39 03-12-2013, 04:01 PM

Could you use a different slave cylinder setup? Ive always liked the cabel setup myself.

IDM · #40 03-12-2013, 07:46 PM

Ranger clutches are hydraulic and Mustang clutches are cable. My clutch is hydraulic. I'm not sure about all Rangers, but Gen 3s are.

patrickposton92 · #41 03-12-2013, 07:59 PM

Idm, you are correct, to my knowledge all rangers used a hydraulic clutch. I never said you could just bolt in and go. You can just bolt in. The fact of the matter is everyone seems to overthink this v8 swap. Its a lot easier than its made out to be. You just need to make some decisions before you start ( 2wd or 4wd, auto or man. Efi or carb etc.) and then get what you need to make it happen.

street_racer2679 · #42 03-13-2013, 04:35 AM

So can you throw a set of mustang long tubes on a 5.0 in a ranger?

jester03 · #43 03-13-2013, 04:49 AM

A Ranger's engine bay is only so big a 5.0 is probably cramped in there by itself

street_racer2679 · #44 03-13-2013, 06:29 AM

Not if you modify the inner fenders

Psychopete · #45 03-13-2013, 07:30 AM

patrickposton92 - you can use cable clutch, you have to modify the clutch pedal to use the cable. It's easier to use hydraulic with an external slave.

street_racer2679 - you need to be more specific about what year and combo, but what you're thinking probably isn't going to bolt in with out steering or frame clearance problems. There is tons of information on headers out there. It really depends on what you have Ranger wise, and what you want to run transmission wise.

jester03 - The 5.0 with the short FEAD fits like Ford should've made 5.0L Rangers. The longer FEADs are tougher, but they fit fine, too.

street_racer2679 - the inner fenders are not an issue, it's the length of the engine bay that makes it tough, not the width.