No oil pressure after oil change! Help!

jmoore16 · #1 09-12-2012, 07:26 PM

Ok, I have searched and still don't know what to do with my problems.

I have a 1986 302 block (probably F-150) in my 1995 Ranger.

I decided to change the oil for the first time.

After draining both humps in the pan and putting an off brand oil filter on, I added four 1/2 quarts of 10W30 and started it to wait for pressure and top it off.

Problem 1) No oil pressure on the gauge in the cluster or on the mechanical gauge underdash after 5 or 10 seconds so I shut it off. I have a remote oil filter located on the passenger frame just above the front sway bar.

Problem 2) I checked the oil and there was oil at least four inches above the full mark on the dipstick. Way high after only adding 4 1/2 quarts.

I have an F1SE-6675-BC (1991 T-Bird 5.0L) double hump oil pan, an E3TE-6750-CA (1983 F-150) dipstick. I didn't find part number on the dipstick tube yet.

Question 1) Do I need to prime the oil system before I get pressure?

Questions 2) What dipstick do I need to work with my F1SE pan?

Thanks guys!

John

Rangerman49 · #2 09-12-2012, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmoore16

Ok, I have searched and still don't know what to do with my problems.

I have a 1986 302 block (probably F-150) in my 1995 Ranger.

I decided to change the oil for the first time.

After draining both humps in the pan and putting an off brand oil filter on, I added four 1/2 quarts of 10W30 and started it to wait for pressure and top it off.

Problem 1) No oil pressure on the gauge in the cluster or on the mechanical gauge underdash after 5 or 10 seconds so I shut it off. I have a remote oil filter located on the passenger frame just above the front sway bar.

Problem 2) I checked the oil and there was oil at least four inches above the full mark on the dipstick. Way high after only adding 4 1/2 quarts.

I have an F1SE-6675-BC (1991 T-Bird 5.0L) double hump oil pan, an E3TE-6750-CA (1983 F-150) dipstick. I didn't find part number on the dipstick tube yet.

Question 1) Do I need to prime the oil system before I get pressure?

Questions 2) What dipstick do I need to work with my F1SE pan?
Thanks guys!

John

Did you happen to PRE fill both oil filters, if you didn't they will take time to fill up...You can try and prime by disconnecting the coil wire and grounding it and turn the engine over a couple of times and see if you see pressure on the gauges ....then re-connect the coil wire and start the engine and count to ten ,see if pressure comes up.

Don't worry about the oil level yet till you get oil circulating and oil in both humps/sumps ..

blhde · #3 09-13-2012, 04:10 AM

I know if I dont prefill my single filter I wont have pressure for 20-30 seconds.

If you want to play completely safe pick up a oil pump primer, it will spin just the pump and and allow you to check the pressure and prime the system.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-901011/

It maybe over kill but if you have never ran this engine before and dont know if it had pressure in the past this is the way to go.

jmoore16 · #4 09-13-2012, 10:55 AM

Well, I did try and prime the engine. No pressure.

The pump is pumping, but there seems to be a problem with the pressure relief valve on the pump. Oil runs through the relief valve into the pan...

Anyone know how to fix this with the pan on?

tomboy · #5 09-13-2012, 11:00 AM

Screw the filter off and see it has any oil in it, if not, then do as blhide said and prime the pump.

Rangerman49 · #6 09-13-2012, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmoore16

Well, I did try and prime the engine. No pressure.

The pump is pumping, but there seems to be a problem with the pressure relief valve on the pump. Oil runs through the relief valve into the pan...

Anyone know how to fix this with the pan on?

If your sure that the pressure relief valve in the pump is bypassing that means a new pump...If the spring that holds the check ball against it's seat is broken that would cause no pressure.
Question , were you turning the pump in the correct direction???
If you were not ,then you just blow air in the oil pan and you would hear it. You should have a lot of torque on the drill if the pump is good and your going in the right direction...

blhde · #7 09-14-2012, 01:41 AM

I would assume he was cranking the engine so the pump would turn in the right direction.

Drop the filters and see if that changes anything. Its possible you have a brick for a filter.

Rangerman49 · #8 09-14-2012, 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blhde

I would assume he was cranking the engine so the pump would turn in the right direction.

Drop the filters and see if that changes anything. Its possible you have a brick for a filter.

I was referring to when he said he was priming ,distributor removed..

The Count · #9 09-14-2012, 07:44 AM

Let it run for longer maybe

Prime it, take out the dizzy and put a drill in there and run it up, will turn the oil pump, then check your gauge when you do that.

blhde · #10 09-14-2012, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerman49

I was referring to when he said he was priming ,distributor removed..

He didn't post anything about the distributor being pulled. Its hard to say what method he is using to prime the engine.

jmoore16 · #11 09-14-2012, 06:33 PM

Sorry guys, I'm in Chicago shooting for the Wood Brothers this weekend.

I took the distributor out and primed the system by turning the pump driveshaft. I turned it in firing order direction. The other direction caused a gurgle in the oil pan. Anyway, in the correct direction, no pressure. I removed the filter just for fun to see if it was the problem. Oil shot out so the pump is pumping. I put on a Motorcraft FL-1A and prefilled it. Oil just goes from the pump to the remote filter and back to the pan.

This is why I assume it is the relief valve in the pump...

Make sense?

----------

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerman49

If your sure that the pressure relief valve in the pump is bypassing that means a new pump...If the spring that holds the check ball against it's seat is broken that would cause no pressure.
Question , were you turning the pump in the correct direction???
If you were not ,then you just blow air in the oil pan and you would hear it. You should have a lot of torque on the drill if the pump is good and your going in the right direction...

Yup, the wrong way just gurggled and the proper direction was tough for my drill. It would even spin the drill a little backward when I stopped.

Rangerman49 · #12 09-14-2012, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmoore16

Sorry guys, I'm in Chicago shooting for the Wood Brothers this weekend.

I took the distributor out and primed the system by turning the pump driveshaft. I turned it in firing order direction. The other direction caused a gurgle in the oil pan. Anyway, in the correct direction, no pressure. I removed the filter just for fun to see if it was the problem. Oil shot out so the pump is pumping. I put on a Motorcraft FL-1A and prefilled it. Oil just goes from the pump to the remote filter and back to the pan.

This is why I assume it is the relief valve in the pump...

Make sense?

----------

Yup, the wrong way just gurggled and the proper direction was tough for my drill. It would even spin the drill a little backward when I stopped.

Well, it sounds like your pump is fine! What I don't understand is how the previous owner rigged your remote filters. When I've installed remotes in a couple of cars in the past, I installed an adapter on the stock oil filter location and run lines to the remote filters (I had duel setup) It's possible he tapped into the oil gallery in the block somewhere, which doesn't make sense to do, but this MAY be causing air being trapped especially if the remote filters are higher than the top of the block.
When you get back home, see if you can get some photos of the setup.

blhde · #13 09-15-2012, 02:40 AM

Its also possible there is a kink in the return line from the filters.

Somewhere there is a blockage in the system forcing the pump to pop the pressure relief.

jmoore16 · #14 09-17-2012, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerman49

Well, it sounds like your pump is fine! What I don't understand is how the previous owner rigged your remote filters. When I've installed remotes in a couple of cars in the past, I installed an adapter on the stock oil filter location and run lines to the remote filters (I had duel setup) It's possible he tapped into the oil gallery in the block somewhere, which doesn't make sense to do, but this MAY be causing air being trapped especially if the remote filters are higher than the top of the block.
When you get back home, see if you can get some photos of the setup.

I also have an adapter where the stock filter would go that lets me run a supply and a return line to the remote filter housing. It worked before and it isn't kinked. I don't understand how something simple could be wrong....

Rangerman49 · #15 09-17-2012, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmoore16

I also have an adapter where the stock filter would go that lets me run a supply and a return line to the remote filter housing. It worked before and it isn't kinked. I don't understand how something simple could be wrong....

I think there's a simple solution to this issue too!
Question #1 Did you replace the filter with the same brand or did you change and if you did change was it a direct replacement?
My thinking here is that the filter is not letting oil pass back to the engine because it's blocking oil from entering the filter.
You already have said that your getting oil to the filter but now you have to see if it's getting pass the filter by disconnecting the return line at the adapter (center one is the return) and see if it's getting passed the filter when you prime it again..No oil output, your filter is the problem..