Ford Ranger Forum - Forums for Ford Ranger enthusiasts!

Go Back   Ford Ranger Forum - Forums for Ford Ranger enthusiasts! > >
Forgot Password? Join Us!

Welcome to Ford Ranger Forum

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread

  #1  
Old 11-05-2018, 04:22 PM
chicknhawk99 chicknhawk99 is offline
Ford Ranger Owner
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 17
Default GoldMember 5.0 Swap and Project Log

First things first, This can be achieved by anyone, as long as you have plenty of time, money, and tools.
Sorry if it makes anyone un-happy about the length but seeing as it took me almost two years to find all the information I did and still had questions, I figured i would post my list problems about the swap. Feel free to message me or post with any questions
Picture of my truck when I first bought it:


Give it I am only 19 years old when I accomplished this task, it took me almost four months to complete it, and that was with my father helping me at some parts. But that is also being a full-time commuter college student and only being able to work on this in evenings and weekends. I started on Thanksgiving break and finished early February.

Like most people have said, it is going to be the easiest when you buy an entire explorer (this is what I did). I say this bc you can have the vehicle as storage for parts and if you need the other side of a wire connector, it’s only a few yards away. Also, you can part out the explorer to try and gain some money back.
I'm going to be completely honest with y'all and give you all the specifics of money, parts, everything.. Like "JAMMANICA" posted in the "what they don't tell you thread", you are going to spend more than you asked for, you are going to spend double the amount of time you thought, and parts you bought aren't going to fit (had this moment a few times, your best bet is to go ahead and register for amazon prime). And finally, make sure you have a junkyard close and make friends with the cashiers to get parts cheaper. By the end of this I was getting half off everything since I went so much.

And if you like a lifted truck, BUY A BODY LIFT, it makes life so much easier with this swap. It clears the transmission tunnel greatly, the spark plugs are so easy to get to, like 20 minutes plug change, gives more hand clearance for working on the side of the motor and lots more. Its possible to do it without the lift, but it makes it so much easier.

Last thing before we start, my father is an electrician by trade and everything else for hobbies, saying this, I grew up wiring houses and computers, so what was easier to overcome by me, might be harder for someone else.

So lets get to it:
I got a hell of a deal on my explorer, I got it a 2000 Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition for $500 with only 160k miles on it and the only thing wrong was an exhaust manifold leak.
My plan was to rip the motor and transmission out of the explorer on Thanksgiving break, put the motor on a engine stand, and rebuild it from ground up and finishing the motor before Winter break. Then rip the motor out of my ranger during winter break and install the motor before I started school again. Well between school and working across winter break, my motor wasn’t finished until mid-January and I didn’t rip the motor out my truck until the last week of January.



I’m not so positive on how I should format this but im mostly gonna say the part, purpose, and if I had a problem with it ill explain with the part.
__________________
"Goldmember"
- 1999 Ranger XLT X-cab 4X4
- 5.0 - 4R70W - BW4406
[url]http://www.fordrangerforum.com/general-ford-ranger-discussion/143903-gldmmbrs-mods-5-0-swap-lots.

Last edited by chicknhawk99; 11-07-2018 at 01:33 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-05-2018, 04:30 PM
chicknhawk99 chicknhawk99 is offline
Ford Ranger Owner
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 17
Default Re: GoldMember 5.0 Swap and Project Log

Motor:
Everything from the original explorer can be used(or replaced factory without changes), if you remain AWD. Otherwise, if you use a BW4406 from a F-150, you must take your motor mount ears and slot the holes so you can shift the motor to the passenger side at least a ” (make sure you cut the correct way, I almost didn’t).
5.0 vs 3.0


Short-block:
I went ahead and ripped my entire engine down to just a short block. I re-honed all the cylinders and sanded down the deck to get a little smoother/flatter finish. I also replaced the oil pump and pickup tube on the bottom of the motor.
Cylinder Heads:
Knowing it had an exhaust leak, I took extra care with the cylinder heads. Mostly half of all the manifold bolts broke off inside the head so I had to cut the manifolds off and remove all those stubborn bolts with a drill and easy-outs (life savers). I took a Dremel and sandpaper and I removed all the rust and smoothed out the mating surfaces for the new factory cast manifolds.
I went ahead and removed everything from the heads and cleaned everything up, polished my valves and reseated those into their proper positions with valve grinding paste. It’s a PITA but with the carbon build-up, it needed to be done.

Valve Covers:
The Explorer's factory valve covers are shorter in height than most other 5.0's. Since i was installing the intake spacer, i didnt worry about them not fitting with the intake.

Intake Spacer
Installed a 1in phenolic spacer between the upper and lower intake manifolds. I would suggest taking the new “studs and nuts” they give you, with the motor on a stand, install the intake with the studs and nuts, then weld the nuts to the studs to create an actual bolt (or take an easy way out and buy bolts long enough, but good luck with that). This is because when the motor is installed, the intake can not be lifted up the 6 inches that the studs are sticking up, it hits the firewall. The problem i ran into with this was the EGR tube that runs from the passenger manifold to the intake. Since there is now an additional inch under the intake, that tube needs to be extended. I just went to the JY, found another car with a really long egr tube, cut it off and welded a piece of it to the center of my stock tube, then sealed the welds with exhaust pipe sealer.
---------

Transfer Case:
I used a Borg Warner BW4406 transfer case from an F-150. Had 50k miles on it from the junkyard, it bolts to the adapter already on the 4R70W from the BW4404 AWD case from the explorer. Be careful what years you get it from due to different sensor holes being in the tail-shafts. This case is huge and you will only have about an inch on each side of it when installed, I had to cut a couple ridges off the drivers side so it wouldn’t hit the frame rail.
Also, there is a frame support crossmember underneath the gas tank, near the end of the transfer case tail-shaft. Do yourself a favor and grind out those pop-rivets and remove this crossmember for easy installation of the transmission/transfer case. And just replace it afterwards and use grade 8 bolts instead of the rivets. I installed the combo with the crossmember in the first time and cussed the entire time, the second time I removed it and it took me a third of the time to re-install it because I wasn’t fighting it.
The shift motor from the ranger can be used on the BW4406
The output spline on the BW4406 is also 31-spline, be careful to get this bigger spline and not the weaker version on some that are only 28 spline. I would also recommend going to the junkyard and picking up a spare so you can leave that one inserted in the case while you fill it and install it (I didn’t and lost some fluid) while leaving a good one jointed to the driveshaft



-------

Drive-shafts:
Front - Front driveshaft from a 1997-2003 Ford F-150 4x4 with a 4.6L engine. You need to make sure it comes with the u-joint and flange for the end that connects to the transfer case. On the diff side the u-joint gets bolted straight to the flange with torx bolts
Rear – I used my factory rear driveshaft that I had a shop cut and balance. They ended up cutting right at the compression part of the driveshaft. There’s a sliding part on the factory one that my truck had
U-Joints – this is where I spent most of my time, the d*** conversion joints are a PITA. I went through double the amount I needed trying to find the right ones. I ended up using a caliper and getting the size of the head caps and going on summit to find the part numbers with ones that correspond to the yoke’s
On the left is the factory Ranger's slip joint that got cut off of my driveshaft when they shortened it. The right is a 28-spline slip yoke that i got accidentaly from the junkyard. hint to the reason i know of the two different sizes


-------

Axles:
Rear – I ripped out an axle from the junkyard ranger that had the 8.8 factory axle with 3.73’s. Kinda wish I went ahead and swapped to a higher gear ratio but that’s what the explorer that I had came with stock so I figured speedo wouldn’t be so bad. But still regret it since I can use a tune to correct the speedo
[IMG][/IMG]
Front Diff – no need to swap this out but I just wanted to include that the explorer’s front diff also fits like factory rangers, including the CV axles (if you do not have vacuum or manual locking hubs)

----------

Pats:
To make the computer happy, you either have to re-program your keys with ford or swap from the explorer. I chose the later and am satisfied with it. I swapped the module from behind the airbag, both door lock cylinders, and the ignition cylinder. It all swapped easily including the doors. And now I still have 2 working keys that are factory to the truck and I can program more to it.




-------

Radiator:
I used a factory explorer radiator. Man, that thing is thick compared to the rangers.
Fan – with the tight space on the ranger, I chucked the clutch fan and installed a dual electric fan set-up from a mercury (cougar I think). They are single speed fans but with a controller some have made it to where one fan is on during low temps and both are on during high temp. I have a thermostat sensor installed in the factory housing on the front of the motor, but I have not taken the time to hook it up to the “Volvo dual speed controller” that others have used. I just have the fans on a 30amp relay and fuse and signaled to cut on anytime the key is on. It might reach 190* in 90* weather but my normal operating is mid 180’s.


Last edited by chicknhawk99; 11-08-2018 at 06:44 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-05-2018, 04:42 PM
chicknhawk99 chicknhawk99 is offline
Ford Ranger Owner
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 17
Default Re: GoldMember 5.0 Swap and Project Log

Oil Filter Problems:
The explorer I got, it came factory with a 90* fitting that came off the block and pointed the oil filter forward, it didn’t have a cooling hose or fittings like the pre-97 IIRC. I chose I didn’t want my filter there and I bought a Perma-Cool relocation kit (summit # PRM-10691). Well when I went to install it, the factory “bung” that is in the engine block was a different thread than that of the relocation kit. So I searched and searched and finally found one that fit a fox-body engine and had the correct thread I need for my kit so I got that.
This kit also comes with just barb and hose clamp hoses. Being a young stupid adult, I installed it with those and just doubled up the hose clamps on the ends. Well two days later I was driving, and I lost all oil pressure and saw smoke trailing me. Well turns out one of those hoses popped off the barbs and pumped all my oil out. So, I learned my lesson and went to Napa and got crimped hydraulic hose made for tractors (80 dollars, ouch). But now no more worries about a hose popping off.
And since I have a body lift, I routed my lines around the front block to in front of the radiator and mounting my filter to the inside of the frame in the space between the ac rad and the front bumper. Go ahead and roast me for a Fram filter but it was jsut the cheap first one i used upon startup. It now has a K&N oil filter




-------

Wire Harness:
The only thing that I had to change was the wiring for the AC- it was the connector next to the battery beside the radiator. Otherwise the compressor kept short cycling and didn’t produce cold air. Simple fix, re-pin the connector.

-------

Fuel Pump:
Since I had the 3.0 FLEX model (dumbest thing ever), the fuel pump runs at a different pressure than the 4.0 models and the 5.0. I cant remember the exact pressure but there are threads out there with it. I just ordered a 4.0 fuel pump for my model year and everything was plug and play and is still producing the correct pressure and amount. Also, the fuel pump from the explorer will also not work, they have different fuel hats and ports.

----------

Transmission:
I used the factory 4R70W transmission that came in the explorer, go ahead and do yourself a favor and use a new torque converter (I had to rip my transmission back out to replace it, PITA with that huge transfer case). Also, install the TRANS-GO HD2 shift kit (lot firmer shifts) and put a drain plug in the oil pan to help you later (I did luckily and lot easier to remove my transmission again).
I also installed a large cooler (Hayden Automotive #679) in the factory location and remade all brand-new lines with 3/8ths hard line from Napa. Make sure if you do this to have a quality tubing bender and not just the cheap one with a cylinder and arm on it that does 5 different sizes. It kinks the lines too much and you don’t see half of them and then the torque converter gets too hot since the fluid can’t flow and you have to remove the transmission and put a new one in.

__________________
"Goldmember"
- 1999 Ranger XLT X-cab 4X4
- 5.0 - 4R70W - BW4406
[url]http://www.fordrangerforum.com/general-ford-ranger-discussion/143903-gldmmbrs-mods-5-0-swap-lots.

Last edited by chicknhawk99; 11-07-2018 at 01:21 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-07-2018, 01:22 PM
chicknhawk99 chicknhawk99 is offline
Ford Ranger Owner
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 17
Default Re: GoldMember 5.0 Swap and Project Log




I finished everything in May 2018 while working on it on the weekends and evenings after college. I drove it two weeks later to OBX and had a blast, still wished I had something like 4.10’s or higher but oh well. Now fast forward to today, the truck is at a performance shop being looked over to go on a dyno and get a custom tune and a SCT X4 programmer. Hopefully I can get more torque and power out of this motor and transmission set-up. (Right now already in 4-low, my brakes can barely hold the truck from inching forward because of the torque)


In the future I do plan to swap to a higher gear ratio to gain more torque, take the 8.8 rear axle out of the explorer in order to have disc rear brakes, and to finally hook the fans correctly to help warm up during winter.

To answer the obvious questions, “how much did you spend?”, “would you do this again?” and of course “what would you do differently?”
I would so do this swap again in a heartbeat if I came across another good deal like what I did. I picked that explorer up cheap, parted out what I didn’t need, then sold my almost new 3.0 motor (with only 32k miles on it), and before the tuning which most people wont need, I was only in the hole for about $1,300. But tuning and the tuner are going to run around another $800 so that puts me father up but still not bad for having a rebuilt V8 motor in a ranger.
If I were to do it again, since now I have a hatred of ATF, (between swapping tranny’s in my mustang and then the truck) I would so swap in a F-150 M5OD-R2 transmission which bolts to the 5.0 and the BW4406 transfer case. If I had realized how “easy” it is to convert a ranger to manual when I first started this, I would have swapped it but by the time I realized that, I had already put too much money into the 4R70W to turn around and start from scratch again. In the long run it would have been cheaper in my perspective and have more power/torque through the manual IMHO
__________________
"Goldmember"
- 1999 Ranger XLT X-cab 4X4
- 5.0 - 4R70W - BW4406
[url]http://www.fordrangerforum.com/general-ford-ranger-discussion/143903-gldmmbrs-mods-5-0-swap-lots.

Last edited by chicknhawk99; 11-07-2018 at 01:24 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
3.0 to 5.0, 5.0, 5.0 swap, bw4406, explorer

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New enthusiast first project (5.0 swap) Andrew_Dallas General Tech 4 12-18-2015 06:46 AM
2001 project 2.3 project theplowboy General Tech 11 09-26-2014 06:38 PM
finished sub project(project log pic heavy) mbgoalie9 Audio / Video 20 10-09-2012 08:56 PM
My Seat Swap Project (w/ pics) '00 Explorer to 88 Ranger MeanMark87 Interior Tech 1 04-14-2012 02:41 PM