Just used some ls s10 swap mounts with 1/4" plate welded to the crossmember to lift the motor high enough to clear the steering rack.

The steering shaft is really close and we will have to get creative with the headers. Also will have to modify the heater box and cut off the big void where the ac evaporator would go.

Well a bit more progress. The intake pipe is just hanging in there and needs to be shortened to fit the maf and the ecu needs to be mounted.

https://imgur.com/Nsychhf

I am trying to go back and read this thread. I'm looking to drop an LS engine in an early 02 explorer. Everyone keeps taking about the K member needing to be re-worked. How did you do yours? I did read about the S10 mounts. Did these allow a straight drop in?

We had to add 1/4" spacers between the crossmember and motor mounts to get the pan to clear the rack and pinion. I think if we had a lower profile rear sump pan we wouldn't have had to anything to make it clear. Also have to notch the rear passenger lca mount to clear the bells housing on the 4l60e.

You need to check the angles from the transmission to rear end. I had the wrong angle and it broke transmission housing


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Ouch. Ya I still have to check that. Will have the drivesshaft guy double check it as well

Yeah my transmission was down and so was my rear end. I just had to add a shim. I think it's posted on here somewhere


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This is what I went off of



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Does anyone have a pinout diagram for a brake light switch for an 03 ranger?
In the process now of doing the wiring and need to hook up some wires for the torque converter lockup.

You might try this site but not 100% sure if it will have what you are looking for:

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd

If it doesn't I do have access to alldatadiy.com and can search for it today.


EDIT: Ok is this what you need?

__________________
2003 Ranger XL | 2.3L | 2wd | 5spd manual | standard cab | short bed | 112" wheel base | 3.73 rear (open diff) | no power windows or locks but at least it's got A/C!

That helps. I will have to just test the pins with a multimeter to see if one of those two circuits is normally closed. I'm guessing that pins 4 and 5 are open normally since they go to the brake lights. So maybe 2 and 3

Check this out. I think this is what you need:

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=38457 (look at the second page)

__________________
2003 Ranger XL | 2.3L | 2wd | 5spd manual | standard cab | short bed | 112" wheel base | 3.73 rear (open diff) | no power windows or locks but at least it's got A/C!

Thank you that helps alot. Looks like there is no normally closed circuit.

Getting close. Fuel pump next. Headers are still gonna be a nightmare.

https://imgur.com/a/5Ja4e

First fire up!