I have a standard 2 ton cherry picker, its on casters so it should move front to back-side to side, I would lose some pulling power but should not be a problem..... OR.... When I pulled the motor last time I had help, and I put the floor jack under the transmission to hold it in place while the motor was out. Is it possible to hold it up without a floor jack so I could move the truck when the engine is out ? If I can move it out and push it back in the garage I would be able to get at it from the front. Sorry, I'm sure these are basic questions, but I have not planned it out in the past.

__________________
2001 Ranger 5.0, bored 0.30 over, Summit Racing Hyperutectic pistons, Magnum Comp Cam, Ford Racing hydraulic roller lifters, Trick flow push rods, GT40-P heads with Trick Flow springs, Ford Racing water pump, Ford Racing Oil pump, Scorpion roller arms, Fuel cell, Torque Monster Headers, BFG MUDs 35x12. 2500 stall torque converter, B&M shift kit for the 4R70W transmission, Art Carr Gate Shifter.

he said "cherry Picker". Lol. Call it the same in Kentucky. I'm sure with rad out and the fan off the water pump you can get it forward enough the exit left or right. ---------- use a coat hanger to secure the trans to something on the firewall

__________________
MY BUILD THREAD
1999 MAZDA 2500SE, 2.5L 4-clanger, 5 speed, Green n slow. Rangers as daily drivers since 1988.
ASE Certified Mechanic, Builder of Show Destroying Protouring and Classic cars..

Update: I ended up pulling the motor and replacing it with a good stock motor out of a 2001 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0 AWD... Now in the process of finding out what went wrong with the first one...pulled off the oil pan and a visual check every thing looked good...oil pump looked good, took it apart everything on the pump and it looked right, gasket looked good I don't think that was the issue...filter was clean... It's on a stand so flipped it over and removed upper intake, all is good... Removed rocker arms, push rods no issues, Removed the heads, gaskets looked good no issue there, no gasket covering any holes that they should not have so I used the correct gasket on the heads... Hydraulic lifters all good, the Pistons all have a healthy amount of black soot on them... Not sure if that is right... I did find a potential problem, all the Pistons were put in backwards....could that be it??? I'll be finishing the tear down next week but could I have found it?

__________________
2001 Ranger 5.0, bored 0.30 over, Summit Racing Hyperutectic pistons, Magnum Comp Cam, Ford Racing hydraulic roller lifters, Trick flow push rods, GT40-P heads with Trick Flow springs, Ford Racing water pump, Ford Racing Oil pump, Scorpion roller arms, Fuel cell, Torque Monster Headers, BFG MUDs 35x12. 2500 stall torque converter, B&M shift kit for the 4R70W transmission, Art Carr Gate Shifter.

un. Backwards might be a problem because of valve clearance? I'm not that familiar with a 5.0 and how the Pistons look but that might cause an issue.

__________________
1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 auto 4r44e 4x4 XLT Off-road package 4.10 open extended cab pioneer head unit. 12" Crossfire sub with Alpine amp. 16x8 DC2 Rims -12 offset. Gibson dual catback exhaust. Engine swapped from 2005 Taurus with 140K

wrist pin centering is slightly offset is why the piston are directional. If there is no scoring on the crank use new bearings and reassemble the correct way. If the Pistons were separated from the rods and setup to spec with the Pistons backwards there shouldn't be any issues.

__________________
MY BUILD THREAD
1999 MAZDA 2500SE, 2.5L 4-clanger, 5 speed, Green n slow. Rangers as daily drivers since 1988.
ASE Certified Mechanic, Builder of Show Destroying Protouring and Classic cars..

Well I'm not happy right now but I did find the smoking gun. If you look at the picture you notice that the 3 galley holes do not have plugs ... This thing has not had a oil pressure since day one… Problem solved but I took apart the entire motor before I found the problem ... Don't I feel stupid ...image.jpg

__________________
2001 Ranger 5.0, bored 0.30 over, Summit Racing Hyperutectic pistons, Magnum Comp Cam, Ford Racing hydraulic roller lifters, Trick flow push rods, GT40-P heads with Trick Flow springs, Ford Racing water pump, Ford Racing Oil pump, Scorpion roller arms, Fuel cell, Torque Monster Headers, BFG MUDs 35x12. 2500 stall torque converter, B&M shift kit for the 4R70W transmission, Art Carr Gate Shifter.

Holy damn it's a wonder you even got the oil pressure gauge to read anything.

__________________

Well now that I found the problem I'm going to take it slow with this motor and put it back together correctly… I have the stock 5.0 motor in the Ranger now that I'm getting some error codes… I know what they are but I'm not sure how to work around them. One is P 0232 which is a fuel pump secondary circuit high, I'm also getting fuel level sensor which is P0460 and lastly I'm getting P0453 which is EVAP… Problem is I removed the fuel tank and replaced it with a fuel-cell in the truck bed… Has anyone experienced this? And is there a workaround?

__________________
2001 Ranger 5.0, bored 0.30 over, Summit Racing Hyperutectic pistons, Magnum Comp Cam, Ford Racing hydraulic roller lifters, Trick flow push rods, GT40-P heads with Trick Flow springs, Ford Racing water pump, Ford Racing Oil pump, Scorpion roller arms, Fuel cell, Torque Monster Headers, BFG MUDs 35x12. 2500 stall torque converter, B&M shift kit for the 4R70W transmission, Art Carr Gate Shifter.

OUCH! I though it was a prime suspect but still,....

You were dead on!!!! I was thinking plugs in the back of the motor, was not thinking in front until I took off the timing chain cover and pulled the sprocket off that I found it...you won....Win

__________________
2001 Ranger 5.0, bored 0.30 over, Summit Racing Hyperutectic pistons, Magnum Comp Cam, Ford Racing hydraulic roller lifters, Trick flow push rods, GT40-P heads with Trick Flow springs, Ford Racing water pump, Ford Racing Oil pump, Scorpion roller arms, Fuel cell, Torque Monster Headers, BFG MUDs 35x12. 2500 stall torque converter, B&M shift kit for the 4R70W transmission, Art Carr Gate Shifter.

I'm still having issues with a CEL... It's a self induced problem... I fixed all the other codes but now I'm down to one last code and I'm stumped...it's a P0460 fuel level sensor.... I removed the tank!!! It's gone... I put in a fuel cell...I should have left it stock I know but I'm too far into it now... Anyone know a work around? Can I get an SCT tune and delete it... Can I put the sensor in the fuel cell or is it back to the junk yard to find a Ranger tank and go back to stock...I need to pass SMOG.. Any help would be greatly appreciated.....

__________________
2001 Ranger 5.0, bored 0.30 over, Summit Racing Hyperutectic pistons, Magnum Comp Cam, Ford Racing hydraulic roller lifters, Trick flow push rods, GT40-P heads with Trick Flow springs, Ford Racing water pump, Ford Racing Oil pump, Scorpion roller arms, Fuel cell, Torque Monster Headers, BFG MUDs 35x12. 2500 stall torque converter, B&M shift kit for the 4R70W transmission, Art Carr Gate Shifter.

Anyone have any ideas???

__________________
2001 Ranger 5.0, bored 0.30 over, Summit Racing Hyperutectic pistons, Magnum Comp Cam, Ford Racing hydraulic roller lifters, Trick flow push rods, GT40-P heads with Trick Flow springs, Ford Racing water pump, Ford Racing Oil pump, Scorpion roller arms, Fuel cell, Torque Monster Headers, BFG MUDs 35x12. 2500 stall torque converter, B&M shift kit for the 4R70W transmission, Art Carr Gate Shifter.

I would find the resistence of half a tank and go get a resister and stick it in

That's a great idea.

Galley plugs get over looked a lot. Run a tap through there and screw some in


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

__________________
96 ford ranger 4wd 4.0l OHV auto.