Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4ranger99
Ok, I'll check out the rear main when I get in there, in the meantime, where can I get the slave cylinder from?
Thanks!  |
here is a link with a picture tutorial
http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...160484&width=0
here is a write up on did on my first clutch job.
Clutch replacement 2wd
tools
besides the obvious collection of ratchets wrenches etc here are a few specific ones that I remember. 12mm 12point socket for drive shaft removal, 13mm 6 point engine to tranny bolts, 10mm socket for PP, pilot bearing tool, torx 30, creeper, transmission jack( if possible see if you can get one that is more like a basket. I had a flat one and the tranny is anything but flat.....next time I think I might try and make wooden jig that I would secure to the jack and help support the tranny)
you need to Jack the truck up. I saw one post where the guy used 4 cinder blocks and then put a piece of 2x8 over most of the block he then took a short piece of 2x4 and stuck it in the hole sticking out his tire pressed up against it. he did it for all 4 tires and the 2x4 keeps the truck from moving. The wheels end up about 10” off the ground. a good workable height. A mistake I made was I only put the front of the truck on car ramps. I had the ramps on a nice hard flat service but where I was working on the tranny was gravelly and I could not use a creeper and with the rear wheels on the ground it was hard to work.This is the only area I had to work with but it made the project way to difficult. Jack the whole truck up on a nice flat service and get a creeper.
Disconnect Battery
-Disconnect shif lever(shifter) , ther is a bolt with one nut on it. remove the bolt and replace it onto the other side of the bolt. tighten the nut and the bolt will pop out. itis a funky wedge typpe thing. the top knob is held on by pressure it is a pain to take off . you should be able to leave it on and just remove the shift lever and boot as one unit.remove the 3 torx (t30)screws holding the stub into the tranny. the stub might need a little force to pop out. Plug the hole with a rag. removing the stub makes the removal and especially the installation of the tranny easier
-drain fluid
-remove drivesahft(mark where the driveshaft bolts to the differential and where it goes into the tranny. it needs to go back in the same spot to keep it balanced
-disconnect slave cylinder coupling.( see video)
-remove starter
-disconnect backup light connection and wires from tranny
-start removing tranny to engine bolts. I left the bottom 2 in until the final removal. there are 8 bolts all together. before I did my job I read all about how tough some of the bolts where and how they use extensions and dropped the tail end of the tranny down first(this is not a bad idea) to access the 2 top bolts.........however, for me all I used was a ⅜ ratchet and a 6 point 13mm socket and I was able to reach 7 bolts. it took some time to remove them but not a huge problem. the 8th bolt above the starter on the passenger side I use a ¼” ratchet.
-I did not have to remove my exhaust if youhave a V6 I think you need to
-remove crossmember and tranny mount. Place tranny jack under tranny, remove remaining bolts and slide the tranny off the engine.....I got stuck here a little because I could not remove the tranny. I thought I missed a bolt. All it was was the nubs where stuck good. I eventually pried it off. This slowed me down a little. Next time I will just pry it right off knowing I had all the bolts removed
-remove PP bolts. loosen each bolt a little at a time. I put the clutch alignment tool in as i took it off. Replace pilot bearing. Replacing pilot bearing can be a pain. they sell a tool fo rit and I would recommend it. clean flywheel with acetone or lacquer thinner.
-install new clutch and PP I tightened mine to 20lbs. tighten each bolt a little at a time.
-installing the tranny is what slowed me down a lot. I was by myself and I had the not so perfect tranny jack. I would not do this again. you need someone to help you put it back in. I had read a few threads about a guy that uses thread rods or bolts. he puts them in the engine bolt holes and uses then as a guide to slide the tranny in I WOULD DEFINITELY TRY THIS . FIGURE OUT WHAT SIZE AND LENGTH BOLT/ROD TO GET.
-Reinstall everything. the slave I got came with a new o-ring and plastic piece. I installed that on the line and popped the line right into the new slave
The only help I had from another Human was I had my wife come out and pour Dot 3 into the clutch reservoir for me. she said she said she let it go down about half way and filled it about 10 times. I loosened the bleeder screw and just let it gravity bleed, exactly how they show in the video. after I thought it was all clean and no air in the line I tighten the bleeder. I never touched the pedal. the fluid bleeds slowly and it might have taken 5 or 10 minutes.
I am sure I missed a few things. Do some searches and look for other threads. it is a doable job for an average backyard-er. but i urge you to stick with the few things I emphasised ...
To answer your question you originally asked me......I say I took about 7 or 8 hours to do the job I did over Thanksgiving weekend.............if I were to do it again I would absolutely get someone to help me at least in removing and installing the tranny and I would do it with the whole truck jacked up on flat ground with a creeper........I bet I could do it in 3 or 4 hours then..........good
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LUK is the recommended replacement brand. Pepboys sells them for about $260. that includes the PP, disc, slave and PB. I was feeling cheap at the time so I bought the Perfection brand from Advanced with the online discount I got everything for $160. the PP was a LUK.
here is a video for that showing how to disconnect the coupling and how to bleed it