Well,
I swapped my coil packs. No difference even with disconnecting battery before repair. If I take the #2 plug wire out of each coil, there is an arc about 1 inch long and when the engine is revved and allowed to return to idle, there is spark no matter if the truck is shaking or not.
I decided to put my snap-on timing light on the #1 cylinder (on the POWER STROKE coil side) and found that when the engine is running smooth at idle, it stays right about where it should be. Now when I let it start shaking, the timing ranges from 20-30 degrees out and is completely erratic. Now what on earth can be causing this spark to register out of time at idle, and then go back to being correct?
I decided to check the coolant temp sensor ranges at hot and cold - correct resistance (3.2K at 190 degrees).
Cycled TPS - range is correct
Checked MAF sensor - there is a resistance of 135,000 ohms through MAF SIGNAL and MAF SIG RNF (in other words, through the resistor).
I cleaned the MAF sensor yet again, and it made a tiny bit of difference. I swear to gosh that thing is overly sensitive. I blew a tiny tiny bit of air from my mouth onto the sensor from a 10 inch distance and the truck idled down slowly then abruptly quit.
So, I'm still leaning towards some kind of MAF problem or an injector problem.
I still am puzzled at how, when warmed up, the truck will stop shaking at idle. However, it will shake if you slap the gas pedal when warm, but will quickly recover.
This is a serious issue primarily because it affects how I leave a stop sign and pull out onto a busy street. The Gear shifter often bounces side to side about 4 inches - that's absurd in my opinion.
