I have a 1993 ford ranger, that ran great but that needed a exhaust manifold gasket. So I unbolted the breather box and fender to get that out of the way. Next I took out the bottom 3 bolts of the exhaust manifold which came out great. When I did the top ones I snapped one top one off flush. Cant drill it out because I broke the drill bit in the snapped off broken bolt.
So I put the gasket in (there wasn't one in before) and bolted her back up. Also cleaned the MAF sensor with the cleaner made for it.
I put a new o2 sensor in and plugged in the other one.

Now she runs like crap! She idles ok, but as soon as you go to drive it she boggs down and sputters (blurp blurp vblurp vroooom normal then blurp blurp blurp) Almost limping back to my driveway.

When I check for codes I get:
341 (camshaft position sensor A circuit range/ performance bank 1 or single e sensor)
226 (throttle/pedal position sensor/switch c circuit range / performance)
565 (cruise control signal one))(( I HAVE NO CRUISE CONTROL OPTION)
and the running codes are 411 (secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected)


I got another TPS and CPS sensor because of the codes and didn't make a lick of difference. I hooked the volt meter up and not 100% sure I checked correctly but theres voltage there.

What did I do wrong??
Can MAF sensors be installed incorrectly?
Could a broken bolt do that? I know others that drive around with a broken exhaust manifold bolt and they don't have these kinds of issues.

MAF sensors can be installed in reverse and would throw some funky codes. Check the position of the MAF sensor to make sure it's correct. If you're not sure how to tell, grab a Chilton manual and take a look, if you don't own one the auto parts stores usually don't mind unwrapping them for you so you can take a look.

Or you could reverse it and see if that fixes it.

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"this guy should be driving a honda. only an idiot would do that sheit." http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-...is-car-10.html


1993 Ranger XLT
2.3l L4 5 speed manual
stock... for now.
PNW Crew

I took it apart like you said and theres no other way for it to screw onto the throttle body. When I reverse it the bolt holes don't line up.

Then it's on correctly. Is it plugged in? Is the O2 sensor pluged in/screwed in all the way? Is there a seal on the exhaust manifold? Check for leaks around the seal where the bolt is.

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"this guy should be driving a honda. only an idiot would do that sheit." http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-...is-car-10.html


1993 Ranger XLT
2.3l L4 5 speed manual
stock... for now.
PNW Crew

Sadly yes, it is plugged in. I wish it were that easy.
There is a leak around the manifold gasket where the bolt snapped off but the leak was way worse with no gasket

Have you tried unplugging the battery completely? Both positive and negative terminals for about 1-2 hours.

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"this guy should be driving a honda. only an idiot would do that sheit." http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-...is-car-10.html


1993 Ranger XLT
2.3l L4 5 speed manual
stock... for now.
PNW Crew

I have for a minute or so. Will leave them off overnight.
So the 226 code is gone. When we unplugged the iac which is located next to the tps and the. Plugged the iac back in the 226 code was gone and the rpm gauge started working again. Took the iac back off to clean it because it didnt change the trucks performance, it still drove just as bad
Will see in the morning when I hook a clean iac back up and reconnect the battery.
I am at such a loss!!

Is the ignition control modual connected?

__________________
"this guy should be driving a honda. only an idiot would do that sheit." http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-...is-car-10.html


1993 Ranger XLT
2.3l L4 5 speed manual
stock... for now.
PNW Crew

The codes you gave were codes for OBD II (96 and newer) you have EEC-IV (95 and older).

226 Ignition Diagnostic Module Signal Not Received (EI)
341 Octane Adjust Service Pin Open
411 Cannot Control RPM During KOER Low RPM Check
565 Canister Purge Circuit Failure KOEO

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/eec-iv.shtml

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2014 F150 xl 3.7 6 speed auto.

Well that makes more sense.

__________________
"this guy should be driving a honda. only an idiot would do that sheit." http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-...is-car-10.html


1993 Ranger XLT
2.3l L4 5 speed manual
stock... for now.
PNW Crew

Well then, that would make more sense. Now I am at a loss for sure cause I have no idea where to begin. So which error would cause it to run poorly and almost limp home but work good if you drive it like on a racetrack.. but idle ok? Just acts up when you start driving and switching gears
Pretty sure the ignition module is plugged in, where's that located so I can double check?

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Must be the rpm code cause the charcoals canister was removed from it before we owned it and it still worked good. So that takes care of 565. 266 disappeared when playing with the iac plug.
What do I look out that's causing the rpm issue?

I cleaned the iac and reinstalled it and now my only codes are
341 Octane Adjust Service Pin Open
411 Cannot Control RPM During KOER Low RPM Check

I read in one place that I need to make sure my octane adjust service pin is in but I cant find it, does anyone know where it is located? Another place told me it was nothing.

411 seems to be that my idle is too high but I have never touched it so I cant see that being the problem, unless it means something else?


help!! this truck has me at a loss. Could plugging the o2 sensors in be causing this without throwing a code?

Hate ob1 cars lol

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95 Ranger XLT 4x2 2.3 I4 5 speed 206,000 *dead*
96 Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0 V6 5 speed 173,000 *alive*
D35 front, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, limited slip rear diff

Look on the drivers side, the shorting bar may be missing or loose. The spout connector looks the same.

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2014 F150 xl 3.7 6 speed auto.

I found one without a pin and one with a pin, the one with the pin was the spout I think. Anyway tried shorting it out with wire and it runs just as bad and the code is still there

Thanks for all your help everyone but now what do I try next?