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  #1  
Old 06-08-2013, 05:58 PM
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Default Chugging at low rpm ....... please help

So I have a 2003 Ranger , 2.3 4 cyl, 5 spd and it has always ran well , and pretty smooth

a while back, basically all of a sudden, a problem arose where it started having a chugging/sputtering/lowww power/ missing problem at low Rpms ...
after about 3000 rpms , there will be a surge of power and the chugging stops and it seems to run normal again . this happens with all gears .
Idle and rev is fine and normal
when gas is applied , the chugging starts / gets worse--- with smooth gas pedal, there is light chugging and then after approx 3k rpms , the chugging is gone , and it revs normal with normal power....

So from 1st gear/ roll the idle is normal , but will chuggg badly with gas pedal,in other gears , with more load, chugg is worse .... revs and power return when rpms get near/above 3k ....
Even on the highway , if in 5th gear and rpms drop too low Severe chugging will start , and check engine will blink

When this problem first arose , I checked the usual issues ....
I checked codes and for any intake air leaks, I checked the wires and plugs and the coil ...

problem codes were these , I dont have the correct code numbers but these are the problems ......
-- Intake runner manifold control stuck open
-- misfire cylinder 1
--02 sensor malfunction

I did find the vacuum tube to the intake runner control valve switch, was broken .....
I cut and reconnected it ( didnt immediately fix or change anything)


soo
I replaced the o2 sensor , I installed some new plugs, checked the wires/coil they are newer , and looked ok ...
I replaced a fuel filter , I tried some gas and fuel injector cleaners
air filter is fine ...

Problem appears to be a vacuum issue .
or an issue with the Coil/ wires


I have torn down the whole intake manifold to find the prob with the runner control only to find that it seems to work and still holds pressure

I have tried to bypass the intake runner control switch/solenoid switchy thing, i have tried it both ways , without any differences ( well very little )

I think vacuum air holds the intake manifold runner control flapper open , allowing more air at higher rpm, RIght?

I have been dealing with this issue a long while now ....

I have checked codes again again..... Mostly getting the misfire codes now ( misfire cyl 1 and 4 ) , I believe the vacuum leak is still present ......

I have not replaced the intake runner manifold control switch yet , as i have seen the code the same since ......

I will be investigating the vac system thoroughly, but thought I would post this issue and see if anyone has had a similar problem and has found a solution

I would love to find a way to bypass the runner control switch , without buying a new one






Any one have any ideas ???

( sorry for the terrible post , I just dont have much time at the moment , i will try to edit )

thanks for any help or advice

Last edited by RangerInDanger1; 06-15-2013 at 07:45 AM.
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  #2  
Old 06-09-2013, 03:54 AM
A Damn Proud Maritimer
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 749
Default Re: Chugging at low rpm ....... please help

What kind of plugs did you use? Exactly which codes are you getting?
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2013 Scion FR-S 2.0L/H-4, 6spd, 4.11:1 Fast Enough Stock
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  #3  
Old 06-14-2013, 07:34 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 8
Default Re: Chugging at low rpm ....... please help

as for plugs , i just used some autozone cheapos , i think they were auto lites
p2004- imrc stuck open
p2008- imrc circuit open or something ...
p0300-multiple random cyl misfires
p0302-cyl 2 misfire
p0304-cyl 4 misfire

it takes a while for it to throw any other codes , but after a long drive the other day , it ran terribly ....It had a bunch of codes stored

i checked the vacuum lines and all recently , no major vacuum leaks,
this is what i found :
lots of vacuum with no apparent leaks ...besides at the imrc solenoid valve thing . It doesnt seem to hold any vacuum on the actuator for the intake runner flapper...
I have already removed the entire manifold to check the manifold and actuator themselves and they appeared to be OK ...
Flapper in manifold worked with the actuator and actuator held air pressure and position .

So I am looking to find a replacement for the IMRC solenoid valve ...I am really not happy about having to buy one for 100 dollars

Last edited by RangerInDanger1; 06-15-2013 at 07:46 AM.
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  #4  
Old 06-14-2013, 07:51 AM
Sweeto Burrito!!!
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 6,440
Default Re: Chugging at low rpm ....... please help

just for assurance, if you have a stock 2003 model 4cyl, then it's a 2.3L duratec engine, not a 2.5L... sorry just being sure

anyway, just curious, did you clean the MAF/Throttle Body/IAC ???

Last edited by RoberticusMaximus; 06-14-2013 at 07:55 AM.
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  #5  
Old 06-14-2013, 08:14 AM
Buy a Ford
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 199
Default Re: Chugging at low rpm ....... please help

This looks like a pretty easy job hopefully.

Ford Ranger Intake Manifold Runner Control Valve Replacement


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  #6  
Old 06-14-2013, 08:20 AM
Sweeto Burrito!!!
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 6,440
Default Re: Chugging at low rpm ....... please help

Mick, that's an awesome post - i love it
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  #7  
Old 06-14-2013, 08:20 AM
Buy a Ford
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 199
Default Re: Chugging at low rpm ....... please help

It also looks like it would be pretty easy to bench test the Intake Manifold Runner Control Valve to see if it is working as it should.

----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by robertmcclure View Post
Mick, that's an awesome post - i love it
Just trying to be helpful!
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  #8  
Old 06-14-2013, 12:39 PM
If it works,don't fix it!
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 966
Default Re: Chugging at low rpm ....... please help

Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerInDanger1 View Post
So I have a 2003 Ranger , 2.5 4 cyl, 5 spd and it has always ran well , and pretty smooth

a while back, basically all of a sudden, a problem arose where it started having a chugging/sputtering/lowww power/ missing problem at low Rpms ...
after about 3000 rpms , there will be a surge of power and the chugging stops and it seems to run normal again . this happens with all gears .
Idle and rev is fine and normal
when gas is applied , the chugging starts / gets worse--- with smooth gas pedal, there is light chugging and then after approx 3k rpms , the chugging is gone , and it revs normal with normal power....

So from 1st gear/ roll the idle is normal , but will chuggg badly with gas pedal,in other gears , with more load, chugg is worse .... revs and power return when rpms get near/above 3k ....
Even on the highway , if in 5th gear and rpms drop too low Severe chugging will start , and check engine will blink

When this problem first arose , I checked the usual issues ....
I checked codes and for any intake air leaks, I checked the wires and plugs and the coil ...

problem codes were these , I dont have the correct code numbers but these are the problems ......
-- Intake runner manifold control stuck open
-- misfire cylinder 1
--02 sensor malfunction

I did find the vacuum tube, to the intake runner control flapper switch, was broken .....
I cut and reconnected it ( didnt immediately fix or change anything)


soo
I replaced the o2 sensor , I installed some new plugs, checked the wires/coil they are newer , and looked ok ...
I replaced a fuel filter , I tried some gas and fuel injector cleaners
air filter is fine ...

Problem appears to be a vacuum issue .
or an issue with the Coil/ wires


I have torn down the whole intake manifold to find the prob with the runner control only to find that it seems to work and still holds pressure

I have tried to bypass the intake runner control switch/solenoid switchy thing, i have tried it both ways , without any differences ( well very little )

I think vacuum air holds the intake manifold runner control flapper open , allowing more air at higher rpm, RIght?

I have been dealing with this issue a long while now ....

I have checked codes again again..... Mostly getting the misfire codes now ( misfire cyl 1 and 4 ) , I believe the vacuum leak is still present ......

I have not replaced the intake runner manifold control switch yet , as i have seen the code the same since ......

I will be investigating the vac system thoroughly, but thought I would post this issue and see if anyone has had a similar problem and has found a solution

I would love to find a way to bypass the runner control switch , without buying a new one






Any one have any ideas ???

( sorry for the terrible post , I just dont have much time at the moment , i will try to edit )

thanks for any help or advice
The first thing you need to address is to get the Intake runner manifold control valve fixed/repaired ,This is probably 90% of your problem. The system controls the intake runner length for peak performance through the RPM range. I believe when these valves fail, they are suppose to fail in the "LONG" position, so that's why your have issues at low rpms.
Next ,would be to replace the plugs with Autolite brand and oem type. Then you should be home free
__________________
2011 Ranger XLT 2x4,4.0 SOHC, 5 Speed Auto, 3.55 Rear. Oxford White.

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

Torque it down till it breaks off, then back it off 1/4 turn.
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  #9  
Old 06-15-2013, 08:03 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 8
Default Re: Chugging at low rpm ....... please help

hey thanks
yes def not hard to replace
Yea I have seen tht vid before ...kinda painful to watch lol

Funny though .. If you listen to the first part , the symptoms really dont match the problem, the symptoms of the IMRC failure are only gonna be when driving, and I think at the low RPMs, when under load .... ( peak intake runner performance throughout rpm range)

of course if its a broken vacuum line thats a problem


Mine Idles perfect and revs perfect , and runs fine after 3k rpm ( for instance) I do feel like power is lacking though
Its total Chuggarama at low rpms under load ....

yes I previously cleaned the MAf and throttle body , and IAC

just hard to stomach buying a new one and finding out it still didnt fix the problem

Bench testing these imrc electo pnuematic valves sounds alot easier than it is
but that is my plan also
I raided the local junk yards and found very very few of these imrc contol valves.
I did get make out with 2 from a ford focus, and one from a mazda !! heheh
So ill hook up 12 v and then need air pressure , and connections
thank goodness I clipped the extra plug connectors , so I can make some extensions to hook up voltage

Then I was wondering ..well I guess ill find out if it is no/ nc or whatever

I really hope one of these resolves some of the problem

Last edited by RangerInDanger1; 06-15-2013 at 08:16 AM.
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  #10  
Old 06-15-2013, 09:12 AM
If it works,don't fix it!
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 966
Default Re: Chugging at low rpm ....... please help

Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerInDanger1 View Post
hey thanks
yes def not hard to replace
Yea I have seen tht vid before ...kinda painful to watch lol

Funny though .. If you listen to the first part , the symptoms really dont match the problem, the symptoms of the IMRC failure are only gonna be when driving, and I think at the low RPMs, when under load .... ( peak intake runner performance throughout rpm range)

of course if its a broken vacuum line thats a problem


Mine Idles perfect and revs perfect , and runs fine after 3k rpm ( for instance) I do feel like power is lacking though
Its total Chuggarama at low rpms under load ....

yes I previously cleaned the MAf and throttle body , and IAC

just hard to stomach buying a new one and finding out it still didnt fix the problem

Bench testing these imrc electo pnuematic valves sounds alot easier than it is
but that is my plan also
I raided the local junk yards and found very very few of these imrc contol valves.
I did get make out with 2 from a ford focus, and one from a mazda !! heheh
So ill hook up 12 v and then need air pressure , and connections
thank goodness I clipped the extra plug connectors , so I can make some extensions to hook up voltage

Then I was wondering ..well I guess ill find out if it is no/ nc or whatever

I really hope one of these resolves some of the problem

Let us know how it go's.........
__________________
2011 Ranger XLT 2x4,4.0 SOHC, 5 Speed Auto, 3.55 Rear. Oxford White.

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

Torque it down till it breaks off, then back it off 1/4 turn.
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  #11  
Old 06-15-2013, 10:30 PM
Learning to use the forums
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 8
Default Re: Chugging at low rpm ....... please help

wellll

more fun with this problem

I went ahead and tested 3 IMRC valves ......
used the extra plugs and hooked up 12v dc and heard them click

Well except for one from the junk yard ford focus, one outta the two was non functional. the other two Including the one from my ford ranger tested working ....
So they are basically normally closed , then with voltage they open , allowing vacuum on the actuator , which i 'think ' closes the intake runner flapper ( correct me if im wrong )

yeah so either way I didn't resolve any problems ...

tested my original ford imrc vacuum switch and found it works ...

put it back on and double check vacuum lines and wires

cant find any problem

drove it , chugged a round a bit , put a little load on it in the low rpms, just at some small hills and what not , and the same problem persists ..

I checked the codes after that 5 min drive and found the cylinder misfire codes

p0300
p0302
p0304

So I am stuck checking the the coil and plugs again

gonna double check the plugs and then coil i guess

im pretty stumped beyond that
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  #12  
Old 06-15-2013, 11:45 PM
Ford Motor Company
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 147
Default Re: Chugging at low rpm ....... please help

i had a similar issue before, it was bad plugs. i would start there, cheap and easy to replace.
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  #13  
Old 06-16-2013, 03:38 AM
A Damn Proud Maritimer
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 749
Default Re: Chugging at low rpm ....... please help

Whereas the plugs are new, and Autolites, I wouldn't assume that to be the issue. One item not mentioned in all this was fuel pressure, check to see what numbers your getting. Also if the fuel is more than a couple of years old, time for a new one.
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  #14  
Old 06-16-2013, 05:21 AM
Ford Ranger Driver
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,061
Default Re: Chugging at low rpm ....... please help

Issues like this really annoys me trying to find the problem, after checking everything x2-x3 times. You can keep on messing with it, and fix it, or keep having problems. More then likely its a simple and easy fix, but just don't know what is causing it. When I get into problems like these, and still can't find the issue I'll just take it to Ford, its normally cheaper [paying an $80 diagnostic fee] then just keep throwing new parts at it, or wasting days with it. After you have a diagnostic of the problem, you can either choose them to do the work[$$$$], or just take it home & do the work yourself [and save some money]. Just my 2cents.


---

Its also to be noted, that its worth taking it to a bigger Ford dealership. The one I use is a pretty big dealership, with around 20-25 service bays, and the last time I was there, almost all of them were being used. Therefore, at least 20-30 workers there, giving a better chance for at least one of them to know the problem right off the top of their head. I tried a smaller one before [thinking a bigger dealership would be awful] but the work I had done at the small one, had all kinds of issues and couldn't even put the stick shift bolts in the shiftier! Not to mention the service took days/week, and the service at the bigger one was great; and all repairs either made in less then 30minutes or by the end of the day. [However it will always depend from dealership to dealship]
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2002 Ranger 3.0 XLT | 5Speed | Flareside | 2wd | 3.73open |
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Quote:
"You rev it, and rev it, and rev it until the valves come out and dance on top of the bonnet. And then you change gear" - James May
Quote:
"9,000rpms into third!"- Jeremy Clarkson

Last edited by thatranger; 06-16-2013 at 05:31 AM.
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  #15  
Old 06-16-2013, 08:22 AM
If it works,don't fix it!
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 966
Default Re: Chugging at low rpm ....... please help

Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerInDanger1 View Post
wellll

more fun with this problem

I went ahead and tested 3 IMRC valves ......
used the extra plugs and hooked up 12v dc and heard them click

Well except for one from the junk yard ford focus, one outta the two was non functional. the other two Including the one from my ford ranger tested working ....
So they are basically normally closed , then with voltage they open , allowing vacuum on the actuator , which i 'think ' closes the intake runner flapper ( correct me if im wrong )

yeah so either way I didn't resolve any problems ...

tested my original ford imrc vacuum switch and found it works ...

put it back on and double check vacuum lines and wires

cant find any problem

drove it , chugged a round a bit , put a little load on it in the low rpms, just at some small hills and what not , and the same problem persists ..

I checked the codes after that 5 min drive and found the cylinder misfire codes

p0300
p0302
p0304

So I am stuck checking the the coil and plugs again

gonna double check the plugs and then coil i guess

im pretty stumped beyond that

They may work mechanically but is it SENDING a signal to the ECM that it's working, that's the question...
__________________
2011 Ranger XLT 2x4,4.0 SOHC, 5 Speed Auto, 3.55 Rear. Oxford White.

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

Torque it down till it breaks off, then back it off 1/4 turn.
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