oh yeah, i dont have a scanner

This thread should be a sticky.

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(Formerly)
FireRanger
2003 Edge 4.0 4wd

How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: 300+ intake threads here on FRF
Info: HID Projectors
How To: NO HEAT Troubleshooting Guide

But a cold air intake LOOKS cool. lol It's more along the lines of a chrome valve cover. Looks good, does little.

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2001 Ranger XLT SuperCab 4dr Flareside 3.0 V6

I did some logging on my 2.3 2003 truck yestereday with the stock software. My 2003 has basically the stock intake, with an autozone filter because when I bought it used it was very dirty and I replaced it with a stock-like version that was 5 or 10 dollars. On the highway at a 60mph cruise I pulled in air at 51F, while the ambient was 48F. Too bad you can't log and compare your data to my stock intake.

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Looking for a professional retrofitter to add HIDs or LEDs to your Ranger? PM me if your looking to have work done, and have cash to spend.

i pretty much gave up and deemed it a failure. nothing really changed in term power from going to having the custom intake and the stock intake. It looked cool though. It just gave me check engines. I was able to return what i bought except for the MAF adapter kit. I dont know if it only my truck or its impossible for a 2.3 ford ranger 2004 to have a custom air intake.

Im just gonna save my money and focus more in the engine. i was planning to replace the o ring of the spark plug. While at it. is there any advices that i should do while the cover is out and while replacing the o rings? the reason for this is that i see traces of oil in the spark plug hole (3rd).

yeah. if i had that scanner, i could compare it. And it would be a good thing so i can run my own test and find out what is causing the check engine. Nwie thanks for your advices. Can you help me on my above post about changing my o ring for the spark plug. ty

The seals are on the wires for my plugs on my 2.3.

I don't know about the MAF on your 2.3 but I can tell you for a fact with mitsubishi and subaru you can never guess if some even professionally designed work right with the stock maf calibration. I prefer MAP tuning over MAF because you are free to do more. Usually the professional intakes have been tested with a variety of vehicles to make sure they are some what "plug and play", even though the results are so exagerated its not even funny.

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Looking for a professional retrofitter to add HIDs or LEDs to your Ranger? PM me if your looking to have work done, and have cash to spend.

Damn you mean I wont get my extra 24 HP by putting it on? LMAO!

i was talking to the repair shop owner/mechanic specializes in trucks about this air intakes. I told him about my issues with the intake i installed and told me that ford ranger 2004 2.3l tends to get check engines, because its getting more air and the engine cant compensate and that it will never damage my engine if i keep on running with it on. The only thing to do with the light is to put black tape so that you wont see it.... Any comments?

Thanks

And in that case, you should find a new mechanic because that one is moron.

__________________
(Formerly)
FireRanger
2003 Edge 4.0 4wd

How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: 300+ intake threads here on FRF
Info: HID Projectors
How To: NO HEAT Troubleshooting Guide

i wasnt gonna let him touch my engine, i was there for the warranty repair on the paint job he did on the left side.

what kind of scanner should i buy? not the expensive and not the cheapest. all i want is something that can read codes accurately.

I don't see why it matters that its a 2004/2.3. That does not matter whatsoever. It could be any vehicle that is MAF metered.

What you typed above is that the engine CAN'T compensate. From the wording you have above I think you meant to type CAN compensate.

The engine does not compensate for anything. It is just a bunch of moving parts. The computer and sensors are what do any adjusting needed.

How the system works (more or less)

Imagine you are an air molecule. You are drawn into the filter and you go past the MAF sensor. The MAF sensor "feels" how coldly you pass by, and it the change in voltage across the MAF is related to how "coldly" it feels as you go by. The computer then see's this voltage, and looks at the MAF calibration to say "OK, this .634 volts I am seeing means that 4 cubic feet per minute of air is flowing in" This air then goes into the manifold and at the same time the computer says "OK, since I know I'm getting 4 cubic feet of air right now, I need to check out the fuel map and look up how much fuel should go with that much air, at this rpm and this much engine load. The computer gives that spray of the injector (say 1.5 squirts per second or whatever) into the ports, it mixes with the 4 cubic feet of air and the plugs burn it when it gets into the cylinder. The computer is then all proud of itself, because it's calculated the right amount of air and fuel for the most efficient mix for mileage and the environment. After the exhaust stroke the fumes go past the first HEGO (the oxygen sensor) and it says "OK, I better check and see how the engine is running". It measures the oxygen content to see how closely it is running to 14.7, which is the perfect ratio. (Called stoich) Lets say for some reason, it wasn't quite perfect and the result was actually 14.0 instead of 14.7. This would be running rich. The computer would say "Oh crap, It's running richer than expected, so instead of putting 1.5 squirts of fuel when I see 4 cubic feet of air, lets only do 1.2 squirts next time. The cycle continues and the oxygen sensors read back "hey, this time I'm reading 15.2, so its too lean, I want it to be 14.7" - try only squirting 1.35 squirts of fuel instead" The computer will keep switching back and forth around stoich. If it has to increase the fuel map by lets say for the sake of example 10%, your fuel trim would be +10%. If it reduced it by 5%, your fuel trim would be -5%. This is called "CLOSE LOOP FUEL CONTROL"

Now lets say your done cruising around like this and you are in a race. You floor the gas wide open (WOT) The computer says "oh boy, I'm going to be dealing with alot of load here. Since I don't want to damage the engine by running too lean when things start going crazy, I'm going to just use the open loop tune where I spray fuel depending solely on a set map that works based on the engines load, and MAF readings" - In other words, It's going to be running richer than 14.7 on purpose, to keep things rich because we don't want spots in the combustion chamber that might be any leaner than 14.7. This is called OPEN LOOP FUEL CONTROL. In open loop fuel control the ECU totally ignores the feedback from the oxygen sensors (HEGO) and just looks at the predefined map that Ford put in when you bought your truck.

Think about what I've said. If your MAF isn't reading right, and the computer is in open-loop then how will the computer do any reactionary adjustments when you are in open loop? Most engine-boo-boo's happen when in open loop, under high load, and at high rpm. When you add a monster turbocharger like I have it is a recipe for destruction unless things are tuned right. It can be really destructive on an naturally aspirated engine also, because what you end up doing is running lean, which causes the fuel/air mixture to explode before its supposed to, causing the spark to throw the cylinder down while it still is on its way up (well in extreme cases anyways). More realistically things will burn very hot and your pistons may burn up, or you can crack a valve.

The reason why your computer is throwing a code is because its trying to protect you. The computer is figuring out that its adjusting the fuel trims too much and it shouldn't need too. I think with this information you can understand your answer to your question by yourself.



The only thing to do with the light is to put black tape so that you wont see it.... Any comments?

Thanks[/QUOTE]

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Looking for a professional retrofitter to add HIDs or LEDs to your Ranger? PM me if your looking to have work done, and have cash to spend.

Get something with live data capability. I really love my cheaper one which is an INNOVA 3130

http://www.autobarn.net/equus-3130-o...te=google_base

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Looking for a professional retrofitter to add HIDs or LEDs to your Ranger? PM me if your looking to have work done, and have cash to spend.

First off, all the previous posts are absolutely correct. The stock intake was a great intake for the truck. The intake you installed will breathe better but at the cost of breathing in hot air. Now I'm going to throw some physics at you be prepared.

Hot air does not atomize fuel particles as good as cold air does, and by atomize I mean the concentration of air molecules and fuel particles. The higher the concentration of these two the more "bang" your engine will give you. When air heats up it expands and so do the molecules. Which allows fewer fuel molecules to fit in the space between the air molecules. "less bang". So the colder you and keep your intake air the better. Now on a tangent your injectors are still injecting the same amount of fuel so your not going to use more fuel with colder intake air. You're just going to get a better more complete burn of the fuel/air mixture. (Your cat will love you)

Now there are better intakes you can add but it will have to incorporate two things: A way to add cold air (I.E. scoop, fender inlets) and some type of a RAM air system. But, there is always a but, you have to keep in mind the engine in a 4 banger that doesn't have a ton of power. So as stated above, no matter how good the intake is the added HP will be relative.

P.S. adding a catback exhaust or complete exhaust will help also.

Hope this helps.

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(SOLD) 2003 Ranger 4.0L V6 FX4
2001 F150 Supercrew Triton V8 (DD)
2008 Fusion 3.0L SEL V6 (my baby)
1992 Taurus SHO MTX (my toy-almost Supercharged)
2004 Nissan Murano SL AWD (Wife's car)