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  #1  
Old 04-07-2013, 06:41 AM
Offy Offy is offline
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Default 2.5 help

I'm here
P4070170.jpg (93.4 KB)

I was going to do timing belt but now that cover is off, it looks almost brand new. ontop of that I now realize that I have to pull crank pully and need the tensioner tool so I'm scraping that. While its opened up I think I will still do water pump and thermostat. Is the thermostat in the plastic housing above water pump? and does the water pump just look hard to slip out or is it not that bad.

PS The more I work on this truck the more I get pissed at ford engineers.
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  #2  
Old 04-07-2013, 08:56 AM
sheltonfilms sheltonfilms is offline
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Default Re: 2.5 help

Stop getting pissed at the ford engineers because you have one of the easiest engines to work on.

Anyway the thermostat is in the housing that you see the green antifreeze in your picture (housing with two temp sensors). Two 8mm bolts and its off. Use RTV to seal this once replaced.

Water pump has three bolts (either 10 or 8mm holding it on to the block).

Before you remove the water pump you have to pull the water pump inlet tube. Its under the alternator held on by 2 8mm bolts. Follow the radiator return hose and the tube is what the hose connects to. Unbolt it and slide it out to pull the water pump.

When you replace the water pump you should replace the o ring on the tube (should come with the water pump). And there is a giant o ring for the water pump itself. I personally just threw away the big o ring and used RTV for a gasket/seal (50k miles later no leaks).
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  #3  
Old 04-07-2013, 09:05 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: 2.5 help

I agree the 2.5 is pretty easy to work on and paired with 5 speed pretty bukletproof. No need to put any sealant on the tstat housing. Just a a new gasket. I believe there is a seal that goes around the stat and one that goes in the housing. Use a motorcraft tstat, put the bleeder at 12:00.

Check your rear hangers and shackles.
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

Last edited by modelageek; 04-07-2013 at 09:23 AM.
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  #4  
Old 04-07-2013, 09:10 AM
sheltonfilms sheltonfilms is offline
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Default Re: 2.5 help

As for the timing belt go to your local auto parts store and rent the pull puller tool and pull the crank pulley.

For the tensioner, I don't think anyone has ever used this special tool. Just grab a pry bar and place the tip on the oil pump pulley and pry to the left to release tension.

As for the bitching, just stop it. You can always have a mechanic shop do it for you and pay them more money. You need to just "Sack up" and do it like everyone else on this forum.

I knew when I bought my truck 13 years ago what I was getting into and I agreed to do my own maintenance and repairs. No one has touch my truck except for tire mounting and alignments and most of the repairs I've done were the first time doing such work.

With all that said, my advice is always free and some members on here and off will even show that I've done repairs or mods on there trucks and only asked for a 12 pack of beer, because I gain more from the experience.
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  #5  
Old 04-14-2013, 01:17 PM
Offy Offy is offline
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Default Re: 2.5 help

I skipped the timing belt because it looked ok and I didn't have the tools to get the job done. I still did the water pump and thermostat while I was at it. But I can't get the engine to warm-up above the cold line. Did I put in the thermostat backwards? And just in case you ask, the thermostat had the rubber gasket on the other side.

Also I don't think it was a bleeding issue because I could feel some pressure in the upper hose and on start-up it immediately sucked down coolant from the radiator. When I turned on the fan no heat came out.
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current - 2001 2.5 5spd 3.73 XLT reg cab short box 165K
dead - 2001 2.3 5spd 3.73 XLT reg cab short box 70K

Last edited by Offy; 04-14-2013 at 05:58 PM. Reason: more details
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  #6  
Old 04-14-2013, 07:25 PM
sheltonfilms sheltonfilms is offline
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Default Re: 2.5 help

Disconnect both lines at the heater core and top off from there.

This is the highest point in the system.
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  #7  
Old 04-14-2013, 08:24 PM
SpeedNinja SpeedNinja is offline
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Default Re: 2.5 help

Saw your post in my other thread. Putting the thermostat into the housing is pretty idiot proof. Looks like yours is right. These motors tend to run on the cool side, and I don't remember anyone saying MI is a warm place. I don't get any warm air with my heat on either, but the valves and all that might be clogged with crap. I have to pull them apart when I clean the system out again. (Was very rusty.)
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  #8  
Old 04-15-2013, 05:30 AM
RoberticusMaximus RoberticusMaximus is offline
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Default Re: 2.5 help

mine is rusty too...
fwiw: http://www.fordrangerforum.com/how-s...5l-1999-a.html
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  #9  
Old 04-15-2013, 06:19 AM
Offy Offy is offline
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Default Re: 2.5 help

Quote:
Originally Posted by robertmcclure View Post
Thanks for the link. I'm starting to think it is my new aftermarket thermostat also. One thing I failed to mention was that I had to pry the old thermostat out and the new one slid in/out. I assumed when I tightened down the housing the prongs would be pushed against the block and hold a seal. I think I'm just going to put the old 1 back in if I can't find a motorcraft one around here.

Anthony, when I refill the system I will be sure to fill-up that way, that is a very good idea. And the help with the plastic hose was much appreciated when I pulled the water-pump.

SpeedNinja, its Wisconsin. Even though its cold it should still warm-up, that is what the thermostat is there for. And before I put the new 1 in the engine heated up to normal range.
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  #10  
Old 04-15-2013, 06:54 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: Re: 2.5 help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Offy View Post
Thanks for the link. I'm starting to think it is my new aftermarket thermostat also. One thing I failed to mention was that I had to pry the old thermostat out and the new one slid in/out. I assumed when I tightened down the housing the prongs would be pushed against the block and hold a seal. I think I'm just going to put the old 1 back in if I can't find a motorcraft one around here.

.
I think the reason you had to pry the old one out is because it needs to be twisted to sit properly. Maybe you should have twisted it and then removed it. Or maybe the rubber gasket was just stuck to the housing. I put mine in 4 years ago so I don't remember exactly Just go get a motorcraft Tstat, make sure the bleeder is at 12:00. Keep topping off the reservoir and it should bleed itself.

Fyi. In the winter cover the front of the radiator completely. I just removed mine today.
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

Last edited by modelageek; 04-15-2013 at 07:11 AM.
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  #11  
Old 04-20-2013, 11:02 AM
Offy Offy is offline
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Default Re: 2.5 help

Quote:
Originally Posted by modelageek View Post
I think the reason you had to pry the old one out is because it needs to be twisted to sit properly. Maybe you should have twisted it and then removed it. Or maybe the rubber gasket was just stuck to the housing. I put mine in 4 years ago so I don't remember exactly Just go get a motorcraft Tstat, make sure the bleeder is at 12:00. Keep topping off the reservoir and it should bleed itself.

Fyi. In the winter cover the front of the radiator completely. I just removed mine today.
The reason I had to pry out the old one is because of 2 prongs located next to the gasket. I got the motorcraft one through O'Riellys and it was a different parts# that had tabs on it. For the tabs to engage the housing it did need twisting but there is no spiral grooves. Through ford the original design thermostat seems to be still available and I wish I would have went that route. Its back together though and working. Thanks for advice/tips.
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File Type: jpg therm5.jpg (81.9 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg therm2.jpg (81.5 KB, 7 views)
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