After only a year and a half of trying to fix this problem myself, I'm giving up and asking for help. My ranger runs fine until I step on it a little too hard, mostly at low rpm. Then the ignition just stops firing. It behaves as if I turned the key off. It stays this way until I turn the key off and back on again and then it behaves as if nothing ever happened. Usually, this happens when I am in a hurry and pull out in front of the biggest truck for miles around. I've measured voltages and changes in voltage at nearly every wire I can find under the hood and can't see anything change when it quits except for the 4 wires coming from the ignition control module to the coils. Normally a test light will blink with rpm but when it quits, this wire gives solid voltage. Here's the list of things that I have scientifically determined that must be the cause. I change them out and then scientifically find out that wasn't the problem the next time I pull out in front of someone. Both coils, ignition control module, cranck position sensor, throttle position sensor, the actuator gizmo that operates the EGR valve (not the DPFE, yet), and finally, the main computer. At this point, I'm ready to drink some beer and read carefully through any thoughts any of you might have.

Also, Is it normal for the engine to die of a massive vacuum leak when you pop off the oil filler cap? Never seen that before.

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94 ranger, 2wd, 2.3 liter engine

Could be your mass air flow sensor. It may read correct airflow at idle but may not be adjusting for increased airflow during acceleration. Try cleaning it with mass airflow sensor cleaner,also check for any blockages or loose connections on the air intake.

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2014 F150 xl 3.7 6 speed auto.

I disconnected the MAF and ran a few days without it. It threw a code of course but didn't affect the cutout at all. I would think that if the MAF was the problem, it wouldn't happen with it disconnected.

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quoting "dirty mary, crazy larry"? ... nice touch

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94 ranger, 2wd, 2.3 liter engine

With it disconnected it should stall at idle,generaly. I would say thats your problem since you disconnected it and saw no change.


Qoute...MAD MAX.

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2014 F150 xl 3.7 6 speed auto.

Just a thought, look at the position of the crankshaft sensor. I had a problem after I had replaced all of the components in the ignition system. My truck would miss, or would not run at all. I did have a bad CKP sensor and a bad PCM. After these were changed I still had problems. After I had readjusted the CKP sensor the truck finely ran good. Look at treads.


http://www.fordrangerforum.com/4-cyl...ition-problems.

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/index...articles_1.php

I should give some more details. The crank position sensor is hard enough to get to that I tried other things first and when they didn't work I decided to change it. After spending a fair amount of time getting to it, I called autozone to see if they had one and was shocked at the price. Since I wasn't sure that was the problem, I just cleaned it off with electrical parts cleaner and closed everything back up again. After that, it ran perfectly. For the first year I owned the vehicle, and maybe a year before I owned it, it had the cutout problem and after cleaning the ckp, it completely went away...for about a week, then it came back. Since it made that much difference, I went ahead and changed it and it ran flawlessly for a few days, then the problem came back. Of all the things I have changed, cleaned, wiggled, and unplugged, this is the only time anything I have done has made any difference whatsoever. The current state is that it is 90% better than before but still cuts out once in a while. I must be close but still can't close the deal. Is it still potentially the position of the sensor? Also, since I was going to be in the area, I bought a timing belt but I couldn't figure out how to remove enough plastic to get the old one off. Anybody change one of these that can tell me the magic trick?

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94 ranger, 2wd, 2.3 liter engine

Do you have a manual for your vehicle? I'm guessing you didn't pull off the harmonic balancer. If you do replace the timing belt, replace the tensioner also... and possibly the waterpump as well.

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Yes, manual transmission. My memory on the timing belt difficulty is foggy as I was pretty flabergasted about the ignition problem. I just remember not being able to get the belt off because there was a plastic cover of some sort in the way and I couldn't see any bolts to remove to get the cover off.

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94 ranger, 2wd, 2.3 liter engine

He was referring to a repair manual. The timing cover just clips on. You have to remove the fan,then unbolt the ac compressor plus unbolt the power steering and ac bracket then the balancer.

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2014 F150 xl 3.7 6 speed auto.

oh, duh. Sorry. I do have a haynes manual but it didn't help. Will try again.

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94 ranger, 2wd, 2.3 liter engine

could it be the fuel filter?

Nope. I hooked up a fuel pressure gage and see the appropriate fuel pressure while driving as well as when it cuts out. I also hooked up a test light to the wires to the coils (the ones that flicker providing a voltage change that makes the main windings create a larger voltage) and I see that they flicker with rpm until it cuts out. Then I see a solid light. The signal that flickers normally comes from what I've been calling the ignition control module although I think ford calls it something else. So I changed it. Nothing. Also, since the light is solid on when it cuts out, it can't be a short in the wires to the coils otherwise the light would go out during the event.

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94 ranger, 2wd, 2.3 liter engine

ok, I tried an experiment. This problem has always felt like it was ignition timing-related so I unplugged the spout connector and drove around like that. The same thing happened that always happened. Is it true that unplugging the spout connector prevents the computer from changing the timing so I was running on initial timing only? If so, does this prove it's not timing-related?

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94 ranger, 2wd, 2.3 liter engine

The SPOUT signal is generated in the PCM and goes to ICM, You may have a bad PCM. I got mine from Auto zone on line and got 20% off. It only cost me $83.00 after I returned the core and got the core charge back. Look at the block wiring diagram and the wiring diagram at this link at this link: http://www.justanswer.com/ford/1h5yp-ford-94-ranger-intermittent-check-engine-light.html[/URL]. There is a lot of good info there.
Good luck and keep us posted

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I also found out that the position of the CKP is critical. Use the tool that comes with the sensor and not a feeler gage and the gap it calls for in the book the tool sets the gap perfect. After lots of practice of tearing the engine down to the timing belt. Its takes me about 2 hours now. Also make sure that the connector is pinned correctly or it will not work properly.

Thanks for the reply. I tried swapping out the PCM and it made no difference whatsoever. I can't help but think that since I disconnect the spout connector and ran on initial timing only and it did the same as it always did, its not timing related.

I am a little grumpy that my crank position sensor didn't come with a locating tool. From everything I'm reading, that's important. When I first tried to get to the sensor, I gave up and just shot some electrical parts cleaner up into the general area of the sensor and for the first time in a year or so, it ran perfectly for about a week. That convinced me to just go get a new one. After installing the new one, it gradually went back to how it used to be. I guess I need to try to find a locating tool and reinstall it?

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94 ranger, 2wd, 2.3 liter engine