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  #46  
Old 03-01-2010, 06:21 PM
earnbud earnbud is offline
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actually i just remembered , someone poked it and fuel came out , that was in the beginning of the problem , so i guess that means that stays like that , i just gotta find were the hose that connects to that hole goes to , hopefully that it as far as my problems
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  #47  
Old 03-01-2010, 06:32 PM
00bamaranger 00bamaranger is offline
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i guess that could be the purge then, its on the front on mine, i wish i could help you figure out what where that hose goes but i dont know what that is, but a vacuum leak that big would cause it to run pretty bad
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  #48  
Old 03-01-2010, 07:10 PM
earnbud earnbud is offline
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well i just found out from a mechanic person , that the liquid i told him about is almost defeinitly oil that leaked from the valve cover gasket , so thats the smoke i kept seeing , atleast solved 1 problem , soon gonna get oil change and check my timing and probably replace my timing belt and hopefully find the hole were the hose goes in
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  #49  
Old 03-02-2010, 03:43 PM
earnbud earnbud is offline
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ok so i took my valve cover off today and found the gray stuff that i thought was silicon was the oil that turned the milkish grey after the head blew , so now i got the stuff all over the area inder the valve cover , so do i probably have to clean all that out , and also i finished replacing all my plugs and the engine started and stayed on for like 2 or 3 seconds but in that short time it sounded good no popping , but it did take a while to get it started up
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  #50  
Old 03-02-2010, 04:09 PM
00bamaranger 00bamaranger is offline
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yeah i would clean as much as you can out of it, if the rest of the oil looks like that i would use an enigine flush and change the oil asap
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  #51  
Old 03-02-2010, 04:31 PM
earnbud earnbud is offline
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what do you mean engine flush , but i know as soon as i got extra money im replacing the oil asap , and recommended thing to use to clean the bad oil off and around the camshaft , and also like i said still havin a problem with it seems like it takes forever to get the truck started up and today once i did it was only on for a bit , unless its a mixture of the oil and stuff
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  #52  
Old 03-02-2010, 05:47 PM
00bamaranger 00bamaranger is offline
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you can get it at walmart or any parts store. there are a few different brands but i use stp, not saying that its any better than the rest but it works and its only about $4, you just pour it in the oil and let it run about 10 minutes but dont drive it just let it idle, then you change the oil. it gets alot of the sludge and junk out of the engine. if your oil is grayish then you got a good bit of coolant in the oil when the head gasket blew. sometimes when coolant mixes with the oil and gets hot it can eventually harden and you cant do anything about it unless you rebuild the engine and get the block and head vatted. if you dont flush it some of the coolant will stay in the block. my moms old van had a crack it the head gasket and it did this and i didnt know it until the sludge got so hard around the cams that it stretched the timing belt and bent a couple valves and busted a piston. but the engine flush should get all the coolant out before it comes to that. we just didnt know it in time on the van.
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Last edited by 00bamaranger; 03-02-2010 at 05:51 PM.
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  #53  
Old 03-02-2010, 06:05 PM
earnbud earnbud is offline
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Well due to some new info i heard from a mechanic , im going to retake the head out , and now im really pissed because i figured out how to do it on my own , versus before i payed someone $200 to do the job so im pretty anoyed with myself , anyways i was wondering i just put in brand new head bolts and havent used the truck barley at all , would i be able to reuse the same bolts again after i have someone check out my head , so im wondering if when i take my head out should i clean the crap off
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  #54  
Old 03-03-2010, 11:17 AM
earnbud earnbud is offline
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i have a question , i got my head out and i found a hair line crack about 4 inches long towards the front and its near on of the ports , whats recommended to do , someone said the liquid block sealer would work and someone else told me to get it welded shut , what should i do in this case and also i need to replace my valve stem seals as well is that difficult
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  #55  
Old 03-03-2010, 12:21 PM
BogusSVO BogusSVO is offline
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get a pic of the crack.... if it is anywhere around the combustion chambers, get a new head...
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  #56  
Old 03-03-2010, 02:47 PM
earnbud earnbud is offline
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i will take a pic of it when i get a chance , the crack it about 1/2 away from one of the ports im not sure exactly what its called but its on the bottom of the cylinder head and there is 4 sets of those 2 ports on each one and the one with the hairline crack is the second port near the front of the vehicle , i was told it could be welded if someone could guarantee the work , but any ideas , and if i had to get a new head or even a replacement used one i know the used ones local are $70 any idea the prices on a new one for a 2.3L 4 cylinder 94
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  #57  
Old 03-03-2010, 04:19 PM
earnbud earnbud is offline
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ok well this might sound dumb , but the guy who looked at my head , he put the head back in the truck before me deciding what to do , so now i got it back home and anyoing but i gotta retake it apart and i have a question i got the head bolts off today , other then taking off the headers is there anything else i need to take off in order to take the head out , and also is it like impossible to take it out meaning is it very heavy , im assuming it is , but please let me know and as far as taking the headers off the drivers side what all do i need to take off in order to get to it , the fuel rale and is there anything else , now im sorry i didnt do this in the first place
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  #58  
Old 03-04-2010, 08:02 AM
BogusSVO BogusSVO is offline
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if the head is cracked anywhere across the bottom... replace it... welding cast iron dosnt work well (yes I do know it can be done, but the head has to be pre heated and such)

with you having a 8 plug head... any used head you get, you must have cleaned and magnafluxed.. the crack alot...I would say 9 out of 10 are

you should be abple to lift the head/intake off as a unit, drop the exh man, the time belt, pull the head bolts fueul rail.. there will be a few wires and a hose or two you will have to pull too.

then get a buddy and with the 2 of you you can lift the head out of the truck... head and intake will be 85-90 lbs
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  #59  
Old 03-04-2010, 10:58 AM
earnbud earnbud is offline
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ok like i said i got all the head bolts off already , and i see how to get the exaust off of the passenger side , but as far as the drivers side , is it that i have to take the fuel rale off in order to get to the exaust manifold off , i see you said the timing belt has to come off , this might sound stupid but does the timing chain have to come off or just the belt , and also another stupid question is the intake located under were the camshaft is

i know i dont know how but i saw one guy stand up around in the engine area and pull it out on his on , and then ill take a pic of the crack ,

as far as fixing it again someone told me that i should have it welded and then bring it to the machine shop to make sure its shaved down like the rest of the head or as much as i dont want to should i get another head but obvioulsy im tryin to avoid that because i was lookin at prices from $300 to $600

Last edited by earnbud; 03-04-2010 at 11:02 AM.
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  #60  
Old 03-04-2010, 11:21 AM
BogusSVO BogusSVO is offline
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hey man.... I am a machinist.. have been since 1992....

the lower intake flange is lower than the camshaft

you have a cast iron head..... welding will not work if done at room tempture.... the head has to be warmed up to about 300*
since you say it is across the bottom tof the head. the combustion chamber side... THE HEAD IS JUNK!!!

there is no time chain.. just the belt under the plastic cover, remove the spring bolt (17mm) then the 13mm hold down bolt between the tentioner and the Tstat housing and the belt will slip off.

unbolt the upper intake and set aside ( you will have to (A) undo the EGR tube or (B) un bolt the EGR valve itself
then un bolt the fuel rail and set it off to the side, have rags handy to mop up the fuel that will leak.

there will be a hose under the lower intake, un do it
now lift the head a bit.. and look around and un hook anything else
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