Hi fellow rangers,

[ 1986 Ford Ranger/2.3L gas/5 speed OD/ Mileage – 151,4672/ California ]

Ok, This is my "unlucky every other year" SMOG TEST ONLY where I diligently replace my air filter, spark plugs, cap and rotor, (fuel cap, if needed).

The night before doing these changes, I drove to the auto wash stall where I waited for my engine to cool down before spraying Gunk Engine Brite, to clean, to make my work a little more enjoyable, and yes, I did cover the distributor coil, distributor cap, and any other components I did not want to get wet. I was very careful not to use extreme pressure around the aluminum, bendable manifold tubing, which could easily break and water would get down into the engine. I've done the same thing every other year since this SMOG TEST ONLY came into effect without any problems before. (California)

The day after, I took a drive to the store about a mile away and noticed an extreme stalling where I had to keep gas revved up so it wouldn't stall. I could come to a light signal, and without the gas to the pedal, it would just die. I was really afraid I’d get stuck there.

I don't remember doing anything out of the ordinary this time, except TWO THINGS, (1) the plugs I bought were Autolite Platinum (AP5145) and were supposed to be pre-gapped to .44, and I checked only one, which was fine. and (2) A few days earlier I bought a 12oz. can of OCTANE BOOST gas additive I added to half a gas tank. I know it's bad to use these additives ,but on occasion, I usually go with a fuel injector additive. I am the original owner of this truck, and have been told it's only worth $500.00, so what can I lose, but thinking about it now, these 4-banger trucks don't do good with the higher octane, that's why the REGULAR gas is better than the PREMIUM, Ummmmm....could this be one of the problems? Maybe I should filler up right away to "water down" that octane booster...don't know what the heck I was thinking?????
A few years ago, I did replace my fuel relay switch, and maybe a fuel sensor, but believe me, this truck was running much better before I did all this replacement of the Cap, Rotor, and plugs. The (expensive) spark plug wires I bought two years ago and they looked fine inside each plug wire.

Has anyone ever experienced the metal contact on top of the rotor inside the cap in the bent-down position? That was weird. So I re-bent it back up, then just threw on my two year old rotor, but still missing. I went to buy only a new Distributor wire because the old one had a lot of brown residue inside the plug, I haven't put that back in yet.
I always took a permanent marker pen and mark each plug wire from the corresponding cylinder, so I (hopefully) never put them in the wrong order. This is what I've found on the firing order >

2.0L and 1983 - 1988 2.3L Engines
Firing Order: 1-3-4-2
Distributor Rotation: Clockwise

Silly question...according to this order, looking at the top left of my Dist. Cap, the top left prong #1Cyl, then to the right #3 Cyl. then bottom left is # 4,then spark wire #2 to the bottom right?

The way I originally had the plugs to the distributor
towers is what I have now.

TOP LEFT (around 10 or 11 o'clock position) # 4
TOP RIGHT # 2 (around 1 o'clock)
BOTTOM RIGHT #1
BOTTOM LEFT (7 or 8 o'clock position) is # 3.

It’s getting spark, it’s turning over and runs and self idles for about 35 – 45 Seconds before it stalls out. I think maybe I’m over-thinking this.
I think the timing is ok, because I don’t think the engine would continue to run if timing was bad.

My next guess maybe would be the gas. At present, I’m about on empty. As I previously mentioned, I added some Octane booster to a half tank of gas, and never filled it up all the way, maybe the Octane stuff loosened some gunk up and is clogging the fuel line, or worse, messed up the injectors.

I’m going to get a gas can and get some fresh gas to add.
I thought this truck had two fuel filters, one in-line and the other somewhere in the engine Compartment, but I called Pep Boys and Kragen and both told me there is only one, in-Line in the Rail, but maybe I will need to go to a mechanic,because the Chilton book sounds kind of involved for just the lay person. In addition, I'm still not sure why it stalls out, and would hate to go thru the trouble of replacing the fuel filter if it doesn't need it.

1986 Ford Ranger 2.3L GAS
EFI
4-Cyl. 5 Speed OD /
Mileage – 151,4672

Let's say I replace the In-Line Fuel Filter along the rail. According the Chilton Ranger/Bronco II 1983-1988 Repair manual Pg.248, under "2.3L Engine frame -Mounted inline Fuel Filter", it has another paragraph under this "Purging Air and priming Fuel Filter" Do I have to do this, or just the replacement of the filter?
Any would be much appreciated. Thank you! Have a great day!

Idle Air control Valve-
More and more peeps are leading me to this conclusion on my rough idling.

1986 Ranger 2.3L EFI 4 Cylinder / GAS / 5-speed O D

Since it runs for about a less than a minute then stalls out, at first I'm thinking fuel filter, then fuel relay, but while steam cleaning the engine, before replacing plugs, rotor, cap, distributor cable, Air filter and gas cap, I may have disconnected, or the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE decided to suddenly go bad.

Although I haven't checked the idle Air control valve (IACV) I called a Gold Shield Auto repair shop and the guy told me to check the idle Air control valve, Air mass, Map Sensor. He also told me that the fuel filter should not be suspect, and to check other areas first.

In order for me to get the “Smog Test Only” done, Calif. Emissions is to have a constant idling engine speed, and since it runs for about 35-45 seconds, then stalls out, I should increase the idle speed. ... BUT, in looking at the Chilton Repair book (Pg. 74) it states that my "engine has a Idle speed controlled by the TFI-IV/EEC-IV and no adjustment is possible." That said, can I still manually raise the idle speed enough to drive to get the smog done?

Even with this Chilton book, I can’t seem to locate the Map Sensor, or even the IACV, located somewhere near the intake manifold or what it even looks like.

you can go to rockauto.com look up the part and see an image of the parts. The iacv( about 3 or 4 inches long) is attached to the throttle body you can try and clean the iacv and see if that solves your issue. I am not sure where the map( about 2' square) is. if i was you i would pull the connections of each one of these sensor and see if it runs without stalling.

__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

the IAC is on the firewall side of the upper intake just over the TPS, it is held in with 2 small bolts, remove it and sray some brake cleaner in it and swish it round and dump it out and remount, some times they get sticky from oil vapors from the PVC system.

if this dose not cure it, and you just want to adjust the idle, there is a stop screw on the other side of the TB you need a flat head screw driver to make the adjustment.

if you do this make sure you reset the TPS, and reset the VREF to the ecu, a #1 phillips stubby to loosen the TPS screws, and a DVOM will be needed, probe the green wire of the TPS with the red DVOM lead and ground the black, and set the TPS to .89-.99 volts and then tighten the TPS set screws.


BTW with pressure washing the engine, you may have caused the TPS to go bad, when they go bad a no idle issue sometime pops up

oooooooooooooohhhhhhh,
Keep in mind boys that I have a classic '86 Ranger,and in the older trucks, this IACV might not be in the same location, but the only thing that resembles this IA Control valve in my truck is on the Passengers side >Near Fender > coming out of the left side air filter box? Two wires going into it from the back with two Phillips screws to hold that piece in, and then two 8mm bolts (top/bottom12 and 6 o'clock) to hold this 6" long piece on.This length includes the black electrical part. They are right across from those two small boxes that slide onto the fender wall..I think one is a ECC power relay. The might be a fuel relay, not sure.
Like you said, "firewall side of the upper intake".

But if what I'm looking at near the side of the Air filter box is the IACV, Can I remove this IACV from the air assembly without damaging the gasket, then clean it, and then replace it? Thanks again!

Photos -
IACV Passenger,left side of Air Filter
http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...ide-fender.jpg
http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...ide-fender.jpg

Relays - http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...y-corroded.jpg

Sensors?
http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...i-even-try.jpg

damn I keep forgetting I Have the turbo engine in my truck and the locations are not the same.

I am not sure where or what the IAC looks like on the NA engine...

I know...Everyone has told me it was located near the throttle body above the valve cover case.

Do you know if I could test this electrical for continuity before spending $100.00 on a new valve? or even removing it,cleaning it, replacing the gasket, would help it run better?

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...ide-fender.jpg

yes thats an IAC, Id pull and clean it, and it may work better if it was plugged in...lol.. but how ford think it will work on the air box I am not sure, it is supposed to bleed air around the throttle blade at idle.. maybe there is a hose that gose to the upper intake..

if you mess up the gasket, no biggie, the parts store has them, or if in a real pinch, I have made them out of a note book cover

Relays - http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...y-corroded.jpg

the one with the green plug should be for the fuel pump, the brown one.. I think is another one for the ECU but I am not sure.

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...i-even-try.jpg
thats an eletrcal EGR valve.. that may be an issue to, if it opens at idle it can cause the truck to stall

BogusSVU, Hey thanks,
For some reason, your dupes of my photo links will not open from your post, so anyone else could refer and click on my above post photos of my iacv,and the relays.


Idle Air Control Valve (Autozone - PART # TV200 $59.99) which to me looks identical to my picture of my “relay” photo link...But this location is on the left side of air filter box, passenger side, and close to the fender wall, and not near the throttle body, like everyone is telling me.

I also bought a PVC valve, (cheap) and looked everywhere on top, around and near the throttle body and can not find the location. I wonder if I have to remove a lot of stuff to get to it. The illustration at the auto parts store shows it on top of the intake manifold, and air filter, but this does not apply to my 86 Ranger, because my filter is over to the left, passenger side. I have a EFI, no carburetors.

Well today I removed the iacv, (idle air control valve) cleaned it the best I could with Carb Cleaner, and will reinstall tomorrow. The gasket looks surprising well for being 24 years old! So I do not need another gasket.

I also bought some CRC QD Electronic Cleaner, and wondered if anyone has ever used this on parts like my relay picture. Where the wires come into this relay from the harness looks pretty bad. Would this be safe to use on all electronic fusible links?

I’m not saying that cleaning the iacv and replacing the PVC valve will get my truck back to idle the way it was before, but after 24 years, it can’t hurt. I’m going to try to remove #1 spark plug and slowly crank engine until I feel air coming out of that cylinder, up stroke, pointing to the #1 in the Distributor, then check the firing order again...maybe that’s all this problem is after all.

your PVC valve should be stuck in 2 hoses, behind the alt, just under the #1 Intake runner, and the top hose runs to the underside of the upper intake and the bottom hose runs to an oval shaped baffle that is under the intake

can you post some picks of the upper intake and TB?

Thanks for the info on the PVC. I have the pvc, I should replace it, but right now it's idling by itself enough for a smog test. (I hope) or do you think i should replace it before the smog test?

I had mentioned that I was going to remove the Idle Air Control Valve, I did, and cleaned a lot of carbon build-up from both the ports and plunger with carb cleaner, and also thankfully, the gasket looked pretty good after 24 years...

After re-installing the valve, and buying yet another distributor cap, It appears to be idling by itself, so the moment of truth is today when I take my Blue Bomber in for that dreaded California every-other-year smog test only, it would redeem myself for yet another two years of bliss, unless I win the lotto, junk this ride and get a new truck!

BIG QUESTION….Will she pass or fail?

My mercy lays solely with the ford smog gods.....BUT if it fails, then its back to the drawing board. I will post again today with the news. Have great day!

I have a truck photo album here on this site, I don't know if you could access this on your own, but if not, here is a few

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...76-engine1.jpg

What is this part?
http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...gine3-what.jpg

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...alve-cover.jpg

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...181-engine.jpg

Top View -
http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...-engineall.jpg


On the PVC part I'm not talking about, I bought just the $2.29 part with a cylinder that plugs into something on the bottom and two plastic tubes coming out of it. If your talking about the Cylinder thingie in the center of the photo, is that the PCV valve?

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...76-engine1.jpg
thats a fuel pressuer regulator... ford factory setting should be 39-43 with the vac line off and intake plugged off

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...gine3-what.jpg
that is the plug connector for the TPS Throttle Position Sensor

your PVC is a 3/8 top and 5/8 bottom, its hid... you know the hose that you have to move toio get to the dizzy hold down bolt.. thats the hose the pvc sits in

Whne you pull the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulater make sure there is no fuel in the hose

__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

Thank you Bogus for the explanations of parts!

This CA. emissions Smog is BIG Business here.
After cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve,(iacv)or Idle Air Bypass she started running better and by herself for 20 minutes last night, and then again today I ran it for about fifteen minutes to be sure it would stay alive (self idle) long enough for a smog.

BUT, as my luck would have it, I was leaving the driveway on my way to go get the smog, then it started stalling again, so now I was then on my way to the mechanic for a diagnostic instead.

I went to get gas, and had it idle by itself again, then thought I'd take a chance and get it to the smog center. Well, IT PASSED! He told me that after 24 years, the iacv maybe should be replaced and not just cleaned, and that may take care of this intermittent stalling, which mostly happens in the morning before it warms up.

I showed the smog tech the pvc valve I bought, and we both looked for where this could possibly go in my truck. He even couldn't find where it goes, he said that part was probably the wrong part, and once I open the can of worms and install the new pcv, I run the risk of leaking oil, so basically if it runs, don't fix it.

In closing, he said that PVC probably is a non-issue compared to other things that could possibly lead to the stalling. O2 sensor I replaced two years ago. I will keep in mind that the EGR might be the next step, as well as thinking about replacing the iacv. Maybe the plunger is sticking. Ummm...what else would be possible scenarios for the stalling on these trucks?

Thank you for your feedback!