Bogus, You said this is one of your previuos posts.
"the part in the box is your Fuel pressure regulator, IT IS A MUST HAVE PART!! the reason you idle went up when you un pluged it is you have a vac leak letting in unmetered air." What thought I said was when I disconnected the hose from the vacuum tree that goes to the FPR,that's when the idle went up and did not stall at all. of course this was running about five minutes this way before I shut it down, THEN read your post about the damage to the plugs, or CAT converter, by leaving this unplugged, but I did smell that hose before I re-connected it to that tree on the end, and it did smell a little like gas, but not much.

then you have a pin hole in the diaphram.. replace it...

to check,the FPR again, disconecct the hose, and cycle the fuel pump while looking at the hose, and see if gass dripps out

Happy Saturday!
You said. "your PVC valve should be stuck in 2 hoses, behind the alt, just under the #1 Intake runner, and the top hose runs to the underside of the upper intake and the bottom hose runs to an oval shaped baffle that is under the intake". Sorry, I still can't find it....I will post pictures very soon!

Someone had mention that the 1986 ranger had no code reader in the truck. I was at autozone and I asked what this part was hanging on the pass fender wall near the very back near the firewall and blower heater unit, he though that was a Diagnostic port. So I gather that is where you can read codes.
I also went there to ask if anyone knew where the PCV was located on my truck. At first, he thought it was part of my oil cap bypass air back into the crankcase,but as he looked on the stamped vehicle info tag on the front of the truck, under emissions, there was no mention of a PCV device. I think I mentioned before that I did buy the $3.00 PCV part for my truck, got t home and could not find anywhere it could be, unless it's underneath the intake manifold,behind the throttle body not in plain view. I could post that vehicle info if you want.
I also bought a MAP sensor,haven't installed it yet,but thinking that may also improve my idle, and it wouldn't hurt, I don't have money to toss away, but these parts haven't been replaced since I bought the truck brand new...24 years ago. The guy at the store also recommended the Lucas Oil treatment (about $12.00) to help the seals and compression (even though a compression test five years ago showed the number 1 cyl. not up to par)

Given it's 24 year old age, bad compression on #1 cyl.,valve cover leaks,rough idling in the morning (but after it warms up it runs ok) valve job is badly needed,could not be accepted into the Clunker program because they rated my truck the same gas millage now as they did the day I bought the car, so no new truck for me.

On the relay inquiry. I found a 4-wire connector harness for my fuel pump relay and will splice together the wires to the existing wires from my wiring harness. There is another relay (green box) next to this relay. I've been told from Ford it was a multi function/purpose relay for my horn. The guy at autozone told me it could be my EFI sensor relay...does anyone know? I could do a test and disconnect, start the engine or honk my horn and get the answer, but as long as I'm here, wanted to ask.

Stupidity question ensues.....Should I just install the MAP sensor anyway, or taken it back until I know that it is the problem? I really don't have the money for diagnostic and repair costs,no meter reader,torque wrenches,or gauges, just trying to wing it the best I can on this. Thanks!

comp is down on #1 that cyl wears the most
look at the dizzy, part of the PVC hose crosses over the dizzy hold down making it a PITA to get to it

Take the BARO back... if you end up needing one let me know, I have a pile and they seldom go bad.

your messing with old EECIV.. the watch on your wrist has more calculating power than the ECU in your truck

Green is normaly fuel... has been on any early 80s Ford I have owned, T-birds and rangers...

So that's a NO on the map sensor..ok, so it will not make any diff on the present idle issues of cutting out.

I also started my engine and unplugged the green/black sensor...the black is not a ford connector, but the green in original pig tail. The horn worked, but the engine would not start, so that rules out the horn relay that FORD told me it was, and it's some type on EFI Sensor? They just told me a multi function relay.

Attached Images

	web VacuumHoseRoutingINFO.jpg (79.4 KB, 6 views)
	webBehindbelow throttle body.jpg (70.4 KB, 3 views)
	webDiagnosticPort.jpg (77.6 KB, 7 views)
	webTwoRelays.jpg (81.9 KB, 7 views)
	webThrottle body.jpg (89.9 KB, 4 views)

dude.... I think you have the relays backward..... green should be fuel pump.... start the truck and pull it out.. truck dies... the thin red wire will run to the inerta swich...


what you have circled should be the SPOUT.. when you set the ingnition time, you have to unplug it so the ECU will be out of the loop and not fighting you.

to look for the PVC, look on the throttle cable side of the TB NOT the EGR side
the MAP sensor is either on the firewall or over on the pass side fender....

Ok, I switched the relay names, Yes, I pulled the green/black relay (top right pic) and engine died. Do you know what the other Black and White relay is on the metal tab?
Both wires in each connector relay are corroded.

I bought a harness with 4 wires. Pep Boys BWD part #PT5685 / V09051 Assembly. has 1-yellow,1-Brown, 1-Orange w/blk stripe,and 1-red into a dark green connector. I ordered it as a Fuel pump relay. The pictured on is terribly corroded.

So the Mystery is solved about the SPOUT..thank you. In fact, thank you for all of your replies!

Here are a few more pictures:

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...+cylinder.html

I've posted a Vacuum and emissions chart in my album. If I had a PCV would it be listed there? I'll keep on looking. Someone told me if I had one, it would be by the Throttle body cable side,and not by the EGR area. Now its going to be test for codes time. People have mentioned paper clips and test lights, and the ECC Self test is over by these two relays..the ECC and the Fuel pump relay. In the photo.

Thanks for all your patience in dealing with the likes of me! Have a good day! :-)

see the black hose in this pic.. that runs behind the FPR? fllow that.. thats part of the PVC, it will be inline with that hose.

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/album...pictureid=4181

May 25, 2012 Ford ranger enthusiasts
Thanks for all the suggestions! I am listening very attentively, I do appreciate the help. I thought by using the Union 76 regular gas, that would be better than me using the ARCO a few years ago, so I have no idea why water would be in my tank. Is it possible to clean the EGR valve instead of replacing it?

It's running fine one day, then a few days later it just poops out,then I have to rev up my RPMS, just to hobble back home, so i think the first thing is to replace the in-line fuel filter.

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May 25, 2012
Hello my friends once again...here we are. After my last post, and everything seemed to clear up again, it was running fine, then it pooped out again, so I bought a fuel filter for the in-line, on the rail. I did a google search, and found that my ’86 ranger 2.3 EFI, 240 cid, 5-speed, 4 cylinder, had two fuel filters, but actually the two filters were for the 2.3 diesel, not gas….at least autozones’ product search only showed one for the gas. I’ll start there.

Autozone told me sometimes the EGR valve gets stuck, and I should remove it, clean it with carb cleaner, then spray it with WD-40. The plunger or whatever gets stuck. Another poster here or another ford forum told me you can’t clean it, this part always has to be replaced with new. Is this true?

In the Chilton RANGER and BRONCO II ‘83-‘88 repair manual, it talks about purging and priming the filter after installing.

So to install~
(1) Disconnect the fuel pump relay switch I have about three different generic switches over the passengers side, under the plastic shield (near the air bypass valve) they are about 1-1/2” x 2” each. Got to find out which one.
(2) Start engine until it dies.
(3) Remove gas cap to de-pressurize gas tank. Put it back on.
(4) On the rail near the filter, there should be a pressure relief stem. Expel any pressure.
(5) Drain or siphon any remaining gas into a receptacle.
(6) Replace filter using some weird looking tool that I was told I needed.
Do I need to purge or prime the line by loosening the air vent on the conditioner housing until gas flows freely without any air bubbles?

About how much fuel will I anticipate in the line, after I disconnect? On the filter, it sezs to have a

Confusion:
1-I was also told to disconnect the NEG. Battery?
2-Also…Do I really need to disconnect the fuel relay switch, if I release pressure using that valve near the filter? I’ll have to find the right switch first.
3- prime and purge the line? Thank you!