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  #16  
Old 02-19-2010, 08:13 AM
BogusSVO BogusSVO is offline
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the IAC is the main one.. that same style was run for years by Ford... so next time your at the pick and pull look at about any ford and see if you can find a newer looking one... no reason on paying $60-$100 for a new one from the parts store, the EGR valve leaking under ide could be the next item. It could have carbon build up keeping the valve cracked open.
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  #17  
Old 02-19-2010, 01:08 PM
bozo4ford bozo4ford is offline
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I'm glad it passed !

I've done the visual inspection,checked all the vacuum lines and electrical connections.I do not have a code reader,so no, no pulling codes?
Test fuel pressure? No. I believe the state added the new pressure test to the smog tests, and it did pass smog, sooo...maybe that's ok.


I'm still getting the stalling after about 35-40 seconds. I started up the truck,ran over and disconnected the electrical solenoid of the iacv and sure enough the truck died instantly.
You said the EGR is fine since it passed Smog, meaning it would not have not passed smog if something was wrong with it, but does the EGR have anything to do with the stalling out after a short time?
Thankfully, it kept running (self idling) yesterday long enough for the smog tech to do his job, but now I'm back to this stalling again. I ran it hard on the freeway to the smog to really warm it up,and no problems on the way home,then after it sat for a few hours, I went to get the mail, and there is that stalling and the truck started going "bronco" and shaking unless I apply gas to the pedal.

That code reading machine to check codes, would I understand the codes,and will the codes still show up on this 24 year old truck?

For now, that $30.00 for that machine could go towards a new iacv if that would be the next suspect in this process of elimination. Still not sure,and really can't afford to take it to a mechanic if he's going to charge me $100.00 to test it,then the part and labor to put it in, which I can do myself.

IACV varies in costs, and not sure if I should stay with the FORD Part >

FORD DEALER - $103.04,
THE BOYS OF PEP - $109.00, (Can't believe they're a little bit higher than FORD)
& AUTOZONE - $60.00

So if it isn't the PCV, EGR, or TFI Module, this stalling has everything to do with my 24 year old iacv? (or idle air bypass) Or maybe it's fuel.
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  #18  
Old 02-19-2010, 01:44 PM
BogusSVO BogusSVO is offline
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or the fuel pump is getting varied voltage also.. not the proper voltage to the fuel pump and then the pump will not make proper pressuer...

do you have a Dvom? (multi-meter)
also on the older fords the inertia switch some times gets funky and will stall the pump.. I think thats up under the dash.. should be 3 inches square witha white T button or a red button.. un plug it and bypass it with a jumper wire (for testing reasons only) and see if the stalling quits.
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  #19  
Old 02-19-2010, 01:55 PM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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you can read the codes without any equipment. do a search you can count the flashes on the cel. rockauto has an idle air control valve for $29. you dont need to spend $100 for it.
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #20  
Old 02-28-2010, 09:49 AM
bozo4ford bozo4ford is offline
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Bogus,
You said..."you know the hose that you have to move toio get to the dizzy hold down bolt.. that's the hose the pvc sits in" I don't want to sound lame, but I did buy a PVC valve, two small tubes coming out perpendicular to a metal insertion plug looking thingie,and still can't seem to locate anything that remotely looks like this. So it's located between the distributor cap,and the back of the valve case,behind the vacuum tree somewhere?
Ok. Since the smog passed, it’s doubtful the timing was bad or incorrect. My problem with the rough idling is still with me.

I have been told it could be a PVC, EGR, or a vacuum hose. I did remove the IACV (air bypass) cleaned it with carb cleaner, replaced it and it did run better than before, but little better, so maybe that has to be replaced after 24 years, maybe not.

When I start the truck in the morning, it has a hard time keeping an idle unless I press down on the gas, then after about ten minutes, it seems to idle a little better, and when I run it on the freeway, it runs like nobody's "bidniz".

I've been to Autozone and Pep boys looked at their Haynes repair books on the location of that PVC valve, but no one knows where it is on my truck. is it on the drivers side, all the way back behind the throttle body, close to the engine wall/windshield, below the vacuum tree somewhere?

1986 Ranger / 140 CID/ 2.3 EFI gas/ 4 Cyl. 5-speed 151,000+ miles

Thank you!

Somewhere here? Do I have to move anything to get to it?
http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...76-engine1.jpg

Vacuum tree-
http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...i-even-try.jpg

Front to back engine-
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/pi...ictureid=27042

Last edited by bozo4ford; 02-28-2010 at 10:04 AM.
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  #21  
Old 03-01-2010, 10:52 AM
BogusSVO BogusSVO is offline
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well find your baffel can under the intake. and run your hand up the hose till you find the step down in hose size, thats the PVC valve, its hidden i the 2 hoses... and is probly covered in dirt and grime

take your new valve and pop the plastic 2 hose nipple top off and install.
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  #22  
Old 03-09-2010, 02:10 PM
bozo4ford bozo4ford is offline
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Default Re: '86 Ranger 2.3L EFI GAS Stalling after 35 Seconds??

Hey All!
Well, still a puttering and stalling. I removed the last plug on the vacuum tree nearest the firewall, (RED ARROW) and then the idle started getting steadier and stronger. I have the Chilton's repair manual, but no mention what these are. (I guess I have to remind you that I am not a mechanic, and not sure what these parts are) By unplugging this air hose (from the red arrow) is there a sure tell sign where the problem is, either the vacuum tree or the other pictured photo near the intake manifold? Would it be ok to run this without that hose in there until I can get to and from my doctors visits this week?

Could you tell me what these parts are? I can't believe all I did was to steam clean my engine, then all hell broke lose.






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  #23  
Old 03-09-2010, 02:21 PM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: '86 Ranger 2.3L EFI GAS Stalling after 35 Seconds??

I believe the bottom photo is a picture of your fuel pressure regulater
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #24  
Old 03-09-2010, 02:25 PM
BogusSVO BogusSVO is offline
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Default Re: '86 Ranger 2.3L EFI GAS Stalling after 35 Seconds??

the part in the box is your Fuel pressure regulator, IT IS A MUST HAVE PART!! the reason you idle went up when you un pluged it is you have a vac leak letting in unmetered air.

the hose you unhooked, dose it smell of gas? if so the FPR is bad and needs replaced, also make sure the vac. T is not clogged.

the FPR may be weak due to age and not suppling the fuel injectors with proper pressure.. when the FPR sees vacuume, it reduces the fuel pressure to the injectors.
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  #25  
Old 03-10-2010, 10:43 AM
bozo4ford bozo4ford is offline
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Default Re: '86 Ranger 2.3L EFI GAS Stalling after 35 Seconds??

BogusSVO,modelageek,
Thanks. Is replacing the FPR something I can do myself? It looks like there are only two front screws holding that in. Will there be fuel present for me to worry about, or any kind of specifications to follow??

Some have said to plug that exposed nipple off on the vacuum tree (red arrow) to eliminate excess air into the system, otherwise it could foul plugs, and ruin the o2 sensor. I need my truck to get to the doctors,but can't drive it if it's going to stall on the freeway.

Thank you again guys!

Is there a name for that (red arrow) nipple, or just an air hose from the Fuel Pressure Regulator to the vacuum tree?
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  #26  
Old 03-10-2010, 10:51 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: '86 Ranger 2.3L EFI GAS Stalling after 35 Seconds??

I would first check the vacuum line on the FPR. If there is gas in it you need to replace it. If the FPR is ok do a pressure test at the shrader valve. If you change the FPR forst relieve the fuel pressure first. Then it is straight forward to change
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #27  
Old 03-10-2010, 11:37 AM
BogusSVO BogusSVO is offline
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Default Re: '86 Ranger 2.3L EFI GAS Stalling after 35 Seconds??

that nipple needs to be hooked up or plugged, the rubber line from the FPR may hook up there....

changing the FPR is not hard, you will pull the upper intake (4 bolts) then relive the fuel presser at the schrader valve (looks like a tire air valve) then undo the 2 fuel rail bolts, pull the fuel rail out (some of the injectors may stay in the lower intake, then pop the 3 allen head screws out of the FPR.. then reverse the process.. may take an hour, if your first time.. no more than 2 hours
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  #28  
Old 03-11-2010, 09:45 AM
bozo4ford bozo4ford is offline
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Default Re: '86 Ranger 2.3L EFI GAS Stalling after 35 Seconds??

Ok, Thanks

Why do you think my name is 'BOZO"?

So I will have to remove some stuff to get to that FPR. Should i do this anyay after 24 years,because I do not know for sure if this is causing the problem in the first place. Would I need any torgue tools or gauges to do any of this? Replace any gaskets on the manifold?

the According to the Chilton book and what I lust looked at, the FPR has three allen screws to hold it in, (The back one looks like it will be very hard to get at, but before you mentioned removing the manifold, and the fuel supply manifold) it says I need a pressure gauge T80L-9974-B,and when re-installed, the three allen screws to be tightened to 26-40in. lbs.

It also stated that to depressurize the fuel line, the pressure relief valve is located upper RH corner of the engine compartment...(would this be that Shrader valve)

Seriously, 24 years old, and what could I expect to run into in regard to any more problems when I remove the intake manifold or the fuel supply manifold?

If I really have to buy a gauge to R&R this, maybe I should just bite the bullet and take it to a repair shop. I LOVE to save money and try this myself, but not being a mechanic,I'd hate to have something else to go wrong by me being a BOZO.

So I may try this if i don't need to go buy any torque wrenches or gauges.
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  #29  
Old 03-11-2010, 10:44 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: '86 Ranger 2.3L EFI GAS Stalling after 35 Seconds??

Quote:
Originally Posted by bozo4ford View Post

So I will have to remove some stuff to get to that FPR. Should i do this anyay after 24 years,because I do not know for sure if this is causing the problem in the first place.

the According to the Chilton book and what I lust looked at, the FPR has three allen screws to hold it in, (The back one looks like it will be very hard to get at, but before you mentioned removing the manifold, and the fuel supply manifold) it says I need a pressure gauge T80L-9974-B,and when re-installed, the three allen screws to be tightened to 26-40in. lbs.

It also stated that to depressurize the fuel line, the pressure relief valve is located upper RH corner of the engine compartment...(would this be that Shrader valve)

Seriously, 24 years old, and what could I expect to run into in regard to any more problems when I remove the intake manifold or the fuel supply manifold?

If I really have to buy a gauge to R&R this, maybe I should just bite the bullet and take it to a repair shop. I LOVE to save money and try this myself, but not being a mechanic,I'd hate to have something else to go wrong by me being a BOZO.

So I may try this if i don't need to go buy any torque wrenches or gauges.
I would determine if the fpr was bad before replacing it. as stated in earlier posts pull the vacuum line of of the fpr and if there is gas in it you need to replace it. if you can get a fuel pressure gauge you can test for fuel pressure that will determine if your pump and fpr are ok

You can relieve the pressure by pulling a fuse or relay for the fuel pump

you don't need a fuel pressure gauge to put the the fpr on . They were suggesting a torque wrench but it is not mandatory .

What you do need is a haynes manual and a fireplace to sit next to as you read it. lol
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #30  
Old 03-11-2010, 11:56 AM
BogusSVO BogusSVO is offline
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Default Re: '86 Ranger 2.3L EFI GAS Stalling after 35 Seconds??

the gauge is nice so you can check both the FP and FPR as stated above..(ask at the parts sore if they have one in the loan-a-tool program)

the only gaskets you will need is an "Intake set" about $12 bux

no torque wrench is really needed, as long as you tighten in steps, the mani an the FPR

check to see if gas is comming past the FPR first if not then the gauge is would be good here, the reg may have gone weak(rare, but happens)
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idle air control valve, mafs, octane booster, rough idle, stalling

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