93 ranger 2.3 starting problems please help

93rangerman · #1 11-09-2012, 12:16 AM

I bought my dad a 93 ranger well exchanged it for some shop labor. My buddy used to own it, he rolled it over 2 years ago and drove it after that and it was fine. He parked it and tried to get it started last year but it wouldnt start. I got it started but took a while and once it started I drove it 13 miles and it ran just fine. I got it to my shop and takes forever to start. If you cycle the key forward and back to let the fuel pressure build up it pops off and runs for 2 seconds and dies. I changed the fuel filter no chance. I pulled the box off and put in a new fuel pump tonight and no change

Kinda confused. I don't have a adapter to check fuel pressure. Anybody else have this problem? I rotated out the relays as well, and reset the fuel pump inertia shut off to.
thanks
craig

78_pinto · #2 11-09-2012, 12:35 AM

when the key is on can you here the fuel pump? what happens if you don't turn the key off and have it sit for 3 seconds with the pump running and turn the key to engage and start the truck? does it run then? you say the truck sat for a couple years, have you been able to test the altenator, battery,? while the truck ran the 13 miles was it feeling like it was pulsing? with electrical sputters?

i am off to bed so i will check this tomorrow night after work to see if anyone else has come up with anything.

93rangerman · #3 11-09-2012, 12:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78_pinto

when the key is on can you here the fuel pump? what happens if you don't turn the key off and have it sit for 3 seconds with the pump running and turn the key to engage and start the truck? does it run then? you say the truck sat for a couple years, have you been able to test the altenator, battery,? while the truck ran the 13 miles was it feeling like it was pulsing? with electrical sputters?

i am off to bed so i will check this tomorrow night after work to see if anyone else has come up with anything.

Yes fuel pump runs and primes. It starts and runs for about 2 seconds and quite and if i keep cranking it after it dies it pops and acts like it wants to start but doesn't. Battery is fine and alternator is fine. Truck ran fine the 13 miles. SO I'm at a loss on this one

93rangerman · #4 11-09-2012, 05:49 PM

Uncle came over today and showed him the truck. He took a little squirt can of gas and just pulled the hose off by the throttle body and squirted gas in while i cranked and it popped and popped and finally started and once it fired up it ran and idled just fine. So somewhere I'm not getting enough fuel prime, now it has a new fuel pump and filter. So whats the problem? would a fuel pressure regulator cause this? I heard the regulator only makes a difference under heavy load. Kinda banging my head on the wall with this one

Any help would be much appreciated.

RangerDanger27 · #5 11-09-2012, 11:15 PM

Hope it's not the injectors. Might want to pull Em and checkem out. Try a sea foam treatment and a longer drive next time u get her started.

97 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4 CYL... SIDE STEP BABY.... (road worthy.... Well almost) .

Doc32469 · #6 11-09-2012, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93rangerman

Uncle came over today and showed him the truck. He took a little squirt can of gas and just pulled the hose off by the throttle body and squirted gas in while i cranked and it popped and popped and finally started and once it fired up it ran and idled just fine. So somewhere I'm not getting enough fuel prime, now it has a new fuel pump and filter. So whats the problem? would a fuel pressure regulator cause this? I heard the regulator only makes a difference under heavy load. Kinda banging my head on the wall with this one

Any help would be much appreciated.

Check codes. Other than that sounds like the pressure regulator or injectors or both

Using DROID BIONIC. 1998 Ford Ranger 2.5

78_pinto · #7 11-09-2012, 11:52 PM

how can it need injector replacing? it sounds to me more like some sort of plugged fuel line. one injector could be plugged but 4?? i dont think so. how would you suggest you check the injectors?

I have no idea where/what the pressure valve is. there must be a way to test it. take a look through the library on my links at bottom and see if there is anything in there that comes close to what you are looking for. this will save you time trying to google search for mystery answers.

Doc32469 · #8 11-10-2012, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78_pinto

how can it need injector replacing? it sounds to me more like some sort of plugged fuel line. one injector could be plugged but 4?? i dont think so. how would you suggest you check the injectors?

I have no idea where/what the pressure valve is. there must be a way to test it. take a look through the library on my links at bottom and see if there is anything in there that comes close to what you are looking for. this will save you time trying to google search for mystery answers.

Pressure regulator is right there at the fuel rail right by #1 and #2 injector.

Using DROID BIONIC. 1998 Ford Ranger 2.5

Doc32469 · #9 11-10-2012, 12:09 AM

ForumRunner_20121109_230903.jpg

I know it looks dirty u can see it right behind the bleeder valve between top and bottom intake manifold hopes this helps. Not sure how to test injectors i am sure there's a way. For regulator valve psi should be around 35-45 psi idk.

Using DROID BIONIC. 1998 Ford Ranger 2.5

78_pinto · #10 11-10-2012, 12:45 AM

injectors run on electrical impulses so to test the injectors you test the electrical units... you don't pull them out to check them. if you pull them out you have just made yourself 3 hours of work that IS NOT NEEDED. the only time you would want to pull them out is to physically take them to a shop to get them re-calibrated.

hope this helps.

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try this, but don't smoke while doing it....LOL get a gas jerry can, open the fuel line some where after the filter if you can and let the pump run pumping gas into the can. how is the flow and do you see rust flakes? while it is apart, do the opposite from the fuel rail. you have a small air compressor>? if so try blowing back down the line to free up some gunk. after the truck sat and now drives you might have sucked some crud into the lines and it is stuck?

93rangerman · #11 11-10-2012, 01:20 AM

I found out today that I guess after it rolled over back onto the tires, they did have trouble getting it started again, so I guess after the roll over it didn't start very well. To pull the fuel pressure regulator off the rail the allen heads are on the bottom so i will have to pull the fuel rails and it looks like i will have to pull off the upper intake and tb to get the rails out. I have a fuel rail with injectors with a regulator from a 89 crown hick that had a 5.0. It appears the regulators are the same, i'm going to look the part numbers up hopefully i can use that one and save some money. But my question is.... Does the regulator have to do with starting?

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Yep regulators are the same

But pulling the rails looks like a crap load of work. Just getting discouraged

Walking in and seeing the box 1/2 off and nothing was accomplished by pulling and replacing the pump and filter. thinking of pulling the fuel lines off and clearing them all out and the fuel rails as well tomorrow.

BTW, you can clean/clear clogged injectors for those of you that don't know by simply taking a 3/8 extension 8" or 10" and place one end on the bottom injector lip and lightly tap the other with a hammer, it knocks carbon chunks off and clears the bottoms off and in most cases will help alot with rough idling on any vehicle due to a dirty injector, you can also run 1 qt of tranny fluid in with a full tank of gas, its a high detergent and will clean injectors works on diesels to.

78_pinto · #12 11-10-2012, 01:44 AM

hey educate yourself on injectors and how they work. this might help explain some things you are going through.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us60324.htm

and don't hammer on them or run tranny fluid through the fuel not a good idea.

RangerDanger27 · #13 11-10-2012, 09:59 AM

It's a good amount of work.. But sounds like your issue is with lack of fuel. If you haven't checked, might want to check your fuel lines for kinks or pinches, it did rollover.

97 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4 CYL... SIDE STep BABY.... (road worthy.... Well almost) .

RangerDanger27 · #14 11-10-2012, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78_pinto

injectors run on electrical impulses so to test the injectors you test the electrical units... you don't pull them out to check them. if you pull them out you have just made yourself 3 hours of work that IS NOT NEEDED. the only time you would want to pull them out is to physically take them to a shop to get them re-calibrated.

hope this helps.

----------

try this, but don't smoke while doing it....LOL get a gas jerry can, open the fuel line some where after the filter if you can and let the pump run pumping gas into the can. how is the flow and do you see rust flakes? while it is apart, do the opposite from the fuel rail. you have a small air compressor>? if so try blowing back down the line to free up some gunk. after the truck sat and now drives you might have sucked some crud into the lines and it is stuck?

Don't agree with the injector portion of this (they run on electrical pulses) but ports get clogged with a lot of junk, crappy gas, or poor maintenance. I had a an injector plugged with what looked like a build of yellow deposits. Never would have saw it without pulling the injectors. Had a sure start ever since... That was in May.

97 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4 CYL... SIDE STEP BABY.... (road worthy.... Well almost) .

78_pinto · #15 11-10-2012, 10:34 AM

yes i agree they will can plug up, running some injector cleaner through the tank does start to clean the fuel deposits. I was talking more that it would take a real castrophic screw up to clog all 4 at once. if one is clogged he would still get fire from the 3, and even with an injector that is plugged will still leak feul.