1997 Ford ranger, stalled, won't start.

[Napitenkah]

I have a 1997 Ford ranger XLT, 4 cyclinder.

About two months ago, I got a P1443 code on it.

I reset it with the code reader, and it would come on after awhile, and the last time, it reset itself, but then came on a few weeks ago.

Then a week ago, I started it, and drove a little ways, and then it stalled.
I was able to push it back to the driveway. It would not restart.

I then went about replacing parts related to the P1443, I replaced, the gas cap, the fuel filter, the fuel vapor purge valve, the purge valve sensor.

But the truck still won't start. I have a battery charger starter, but that didn't help.

I already checked the fuel pump and fuel pump relay, while I replaced the other parts, and those two are working.

I checked the inertia switch, and that is not tripped.

The starter works, it turns over. I had already changed the spark plugs about 3 months before, and the truck had run better with those.

I really never had any problem starting the truck before, or stalling.

Except, sometimes when it was hot, after I initially went out somewhere, and restarted it, it would do some kind of half start or incomplete start, and idle so low, that I would have to keep the gas on to keep it from stalling. But even if it stalled then, I could always restart it, and after driving awhile, it would jump back to normal idle.

That may or may not be related to the problem now.

It is fuel injection.

I am kind of capped out as what else I can check.

[modelageek]

Originally Posted by Napitenkah

I have a 1997 Ford ranger XLT, 4 cyclinder.

About two months ago, I got a P1443 code on it.

I reset it with the code reader, and it would come on after awhile, and the last time, it reset itself, but then came on a few weeks ago.

Then a week ago, I started it, and drove a little ways, and then it stalled.
I was able to push it back to the driveway. It would not restart.

I then went about replacing parts related to the P1443, I replaced, the gas cap, the fuel filter, the fuel vapor purge valve, the purge valve sensor.

But the truck still won't start. I have a battery charger starter, but that didn't help.

I already checked the fuel pump and fuel pump relay, while I replaced the other parts, and those two are working.

I checked the inertia switch, and that is not tripped.

The starter works, it turns over. I had already changed the spark plugs about 3 months before, and the truck had run better with those.

I really never had any problem starting the truck before, or stalling.

Except, sometimes when it was hot, after I initially went out somewhere, and restarted it, it would do some kind of half start or incomplete start, and idle so low, that I would have to keep the gas on to keep it from stalling. But even if it stalled then, I could always restart it, and after driving awhile, it would jump back to normal idle.

That may or may not be related to the problem now.

It is fuel injection.

I am kind of capped out as what else I can check.

Check the timing belt.

[Napitenkah]

The single drive belt is new. I replaced it about 6 months ago.

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One thing I was wondering about,; was can a P1443
-Evaporative emission system control valve low/no flow reading, if left for awhile, cause the truck to stall and not start?

Can the fuel vapors build up in the intake or engine and cause a kind of flooding?

I had opened some of the air lines to the intake manifold, with the idea of releasing vapors, but that didn't do anything, and it may not work that way.

[Napitenkah]

I just went out, and had someone watching the belt movement while I tried to start it.

They said the belt spun, trying to start the engine.
And they could hear the wires on the distributor cap trying to fire the engine.

I pumped the gas a couple times quick.

And after opening the air line, we could smell gas there.

The engine is not even kicking a little.

Is there another sensor or valve besides the ones I replaced?

Something preventing a start?

[modelageek]

Originally Posted by Napitenkah

I just went out, and had someone watching the belt movement while I tried to start it.

They said the belt spun, trying to start the engine.
And they could hear the wires on the distributor cap trying to fire the engine.

I pumped the gas a couple times quick.

And after opening the air line, we could smell gas there.

The engine is not even kicking a little.

Is there another sensor or valve besides the ones I replaced?

Something preventing a start?

that is a very confusing post^^^^^^..............I think you are looking at the serpentine belt........the timing belt is behind a cover at the front of the engine .....it is behind the serpentine belt etc, .you can pull the top of the cover back at the camshaft and see if the belt is there.

[Napitenkah]

You are right, I was.

I saw the cover, and I almost took it off, but I am not a mechanic, so I didn't know for sure what it was.

[modelageek]

Originally Posted by Napitenkah

You are right, I was.

I saw the cover, and I almost took it off, but I am not a mechanic, so I didn't know for sure what it was.

So, is the timing belt broken?

[Napitenkah]

Okay, it is going to take some work to get it off. But I was able to pry the top part of the cover away, and I saw the timing belt, and I saw the teeth underneath.
The odd thing, is the belt seemed completely loose from the teeth, it was an inch above the teeth and not tensioned at all, like the serpentine belt.

This may show my ignorance even more, but is it safe to say that this is not how it should be?

If it isn't, then this is definitely the reason the engine won't turn over.

[tacho19871987]

If its spinnings then u popped the belt or the tensioner. Luckily for these engines, the pistons dont make contact with the valve with the torn belt.

GO GO POWER RANGER!!!

[modelageek]

Originally Posted by Napitenkah

Okay, it is going to take some work to get it off. But I was able to pry the top part of the cover away, and I saw the timing belt, and I saw the teeth underneath.
The odd thing, is the belt seemed completely loose from the teeth, it was an inch above the teeth and not tensioned at all, like the serpentine belt.

This may show my ignorance even more, but is it safe to say that this is not how it should be?

If it isn't, then this is definitely the reason the engine won't turn over.

You found the problem. As tacho said maybe the tensioner broke or maybe the belt is broken and just sitting there, but luckily you have a non-interference engine so you can just replace the parts and you will be fine.

And to get the terminology right. The truck is turning over. It is not firing/starting. Go to rockauto.com and look for a timing belt kit. You might get a waterpump too if you have the funds.

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FYI. The "air lines" are called vacuum lines.

[tacho19871987]

"Non-Interference" that was the word i was looking for.

In my case, on my stang what broke was the bolt for the oil pump drive shaft pulley. It was a B I T C H!!!

GO GO POWER RANGER!!!

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If ur problem it the tensioner, go ahead and replace ur belt please.

I just saw prices for Autozone
Tensioner $27.99
Belt $26.99
Getting the time to know and work on ur truck, priceless!!!

GO GO POWER RANGER!!!

[modelageek]

Originally Posted by tacho19871987

"Non-Interference" that was the word i was looking for.

In my case, on my stang what broke was the bolt for the oil pump drive shaft pulley. It was a B I T C H!!!

GO GO POWER RANGER!!!

----------

If ur problem it the tensioner, go ahead and replace ur belt please.

I just saw prices for Autozone
Tensioner $27.99
Belt $26.99
Getting the time to know and work on ur truck, priceless!!!

GO GO POWER RANGER!!!

What year was the mustang?

[modelageek]

Originally Posted by Napitenkah

I have a 1997 Ford ranger XLT, 4 cyclinder.

About two months ago, I got a P1443 code on it.

I reset it with the code reader, and it would come on after awhile, and the last time, it reset itself, but then came on a few weeks ago.

Then a week ago, I started it, and drove a little ways, and then it stalled.
I was able to push it back to the driveway. It would not restart.

I then went about replacing parts related to the P1443, I replaced, the gas cap, the fuel filter, the fuel vapor purge valve, the purge valve sensor.

But the truck still won't start. I have a battery charger starter, but that didn't help.

I already checked the fuel pump and fuel pump relay, while I replaced the other parts, and those two are working.

I checked the inertia switch, and that is not tripped.

The starter works, it turns over. I had already changed the spark plugs about 3 months before, and the truck had run better with those.

I really never had any problem starting the truck before, or stalling.

Except, sometimes when it was hot, after I initially went out somewhere, and restarted it, it would do some kind of half start or incomplete start, and idle so low, that I would have to keep the gas on to keep it from stalling. But even if it stalled then, I could always restart it, and after driving awhile, it would jump back to normal idle.

That may or may not be related to the problem now.

It is fuel injection.

I am kind of capped out as what else I can check.

Questions for you. Did you do all this actual work on the truck yourself or did someone else do the work? Did you on your own change all 8 sparkplugs? I cant see your signature, do you have an auto or 5 speed tranny. Please answer all my questions.

[Napitenkah]

Okay, and I knew somehow someone would ask.

I usually do maintenance work anyway, and so I would figure out and do the auto myself if I could.

Yes, I changed the spark plugs on it. I had done them before on other vehicles. They were a real chore on some of them for the ranger, there are 8 spark plugs, I changed the wires to. I had changed out the radiator a few months before that.

I got the P1443 light a month ago, but I didn't do anything until the truck stalled. Then I changed the fuel filter and the purge valve and sensor.
I never did those before, but they were not hard, except I have been getting over a bronchial cold.

I think I am going to do the timing belt. I already got the kit, and I found some videos and posts on aligning the triangles.

I have the Haynes manual for it, but it says to take all the spark plugs out and the alternator and listen for clicks through the spark plug holes or something to align it.
Naw, I am aligning it by the triangles.

If there are any suggestions and advice for it, I would love to hear it.
Oh, and it is an automatic. 2.3L

[modelageek]

Originally Posted by Napitenkah

Okay, and I knew somehow someone would ask.

I usually do maintenance work anyway, and so I would figure out and do the auto myself if I could.

Yes, I changed the spark plugs on it. I had done them before on other vehicles. They were a real chore on some of them for the ranger, there are 8 spark plugs, I changed the wires to. I had changed out the radiator a few months before that.

I got the P1443 light a month ago, but I didn't do anything until the truck stalled. Then I changed the fuel filter and the purge valve and sensor.
I never did those before, but they were not hard, except I have been getting over a bronchial cold.

I think I am going to do the timing belt. I already got the kit, and I found some videos and posts on aligning the triangles.

I have the Haynes manual for it, but it says to take all the spark plugs out and the alternator and listen for clicks through the spark plug holes or something to align it.
Naw, I am aligning it by the triangles.

If there are any suggestions and advice for it, I would love to hear it.

Read all the how to's and watch the videos. Keep in mind that the cam spins twice for each crank rotation so if the the cam marks are off a little the cam might have to be fully rotated. Make sure you clean off the marks well so you can see them. Your cam sensor is behind the oilpump so it has to be lined up correctly Many people are cavalier about and them and line them up incorrectly. There are diamonds and triangles If you have the $$ get a new quility waterpump and a motorcraft thermostat.