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  #16  
Old 01-30-2010, 11:54 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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one other question when you turn the key to the on position does the cel come on
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #17  
Old 01-30-2010, 12:03 PM
timay4337 timay4337 is offline
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well I know the eec test is getting power because I ran the codes the other night, the cel is on when I turn the key. It comes up code 116 which is coolant temp gauge.

thanks,
Tim
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  #18  
Old 01-30-2010, 12:14 PM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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well again if you can get a mm and see that you are getting power to the ignition module, coil packs etc the crankshaft positioning sensor is the only other thing i can think of. I am not sure how to test that. . i guess the real question is what would cause a no fuel, no spark, but will crank situation. maybe you should post that question in a new thread or on a different site
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #19  
Old 02-01-2010, 02:17 AM
Fx4wannabe01 Fx4wannabe01 is offline
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Got a multimeter to see what kind of juice you're sending to the coil-packs?


Is the fuel pump "humming/whineing" when the key is turned to the 'on' position?? I'd change the fuel filter for the hell of it because it's cheap. If it is humming, take the purge cap off the end of the fuel rail and press the valve to release the pressure and to even more confirm you're getting fuel there. Then, screw on a pressure gauge to see what kind of pressure you're getting. It should be in the 30's if I recall correctly.

modelageek pretty much has said what I would say as far as the spark issue. Though I would add to check the engine ground straps. Should just be one near the driverside hood hinge or the wiper motor. There may be more, but I'm not all to familiar with that vintage of truck or engine.

Is there any evidence of the engine wiring harness being messed with? Uncovered lengths of wire, no tubing over wire, etc??? When I was doing my engine swap(01 4.0 to 06 4.0), one wire was out of place on the 06 harness compared to my 01 truck and pcm. That resulted in a no start thinking the truck was being stolen(I have a Passive Theft System on my truck PATS).





Been a few days....any update??



I suggest posting your issue in a new thread on some of the other Ranger forums out there. Different group of guys, more established site...someone there may have experienced what you are experiencing and/or may be able to help better.

www.TheRangerStation.com
www.RangerPowerSports.com
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  #20  
Old 02-01-2010, 10:58 AM
timay4337 timay4337 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
Got a multimeter to see what kind of juice you're sending to the coil-packs?


Is the fuel pump "humming/whineing" when the key is turned to the 'on' position?? I'd change the fuel filter for the hell of it because it's cheap. If it is humming, take the purge cap off the end of the fuel rail and press the valve to release the pressure and to even more confirm you're getting fuel there. Then, screw on a pressure gauge to see what kind of pressure you're getting. It should be in the 30's if I recall correctly.

modelageek pretty much has said what I would say as far as the spark issue. Though I would add to check the engine ground straps. Should just be one near the driverside hood hinge or the wiper motor. There may be more, but I'm not all to familiar with that vintage of truck or engine.

Is there any evidence of the engine wiring harness being messed with? Uncovered lengths of wire, no tubing over wire, etc??? When I was doing my engine swap(01 4.0 to 06 4.0), one wire was out of place on the 06 harness compared to my 01 truck and pcm. That resulted in a no start thinking the truck was being stolen(I have a Passive Theft System on my truck PATS).





Been a few days....any update??



I suggest posting your issue in a new thread on some of the other Ranger forums out there. Different group of guys, more established site...someone there may have experienced what you are experiencing and/or may be able to help better.

www.TheRangerStation.com
www.RangerPowerSports.com
yeah its getting fuel, and theres no juice to the coil packs. had the ignition module and coil packs tested at auto zone and i check them again myself and they're ok. Im debating on starting to buy new sensors or buy a new motor, I can get one for 200-300. im not sure yet
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  #21  
Old 02-01-2010, 01:44 PM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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I saw on your profile you are only 17. you are doing fine you will get it figured out. do some searching here and on TRS and take your multimeter and figure out where you have power to. You said you had no power to the coilpacks( I think the key needs to be on) So go back to the next item I think it is the ignition module, you did straighten out the 3rd screw thing on it right? if you dont have power at the IM go to the next item, find a wiring diagram. Post a thread asking why you dont have spark or post one asking if a bad crankshaft positioning sensor would give a no spark situation( I think it would but I am not positive) I think it has something to do with the guy changing the timing belt. then a day later the truck stopped running. could he have fubarred the crankshaft positioning sensor. you could post on the enthusists site. they have just one forum for these trucks so you get a lot of peeps looking at them.
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #22  
Old 02-01-2010, 08:17 PM
timay4337 timay4337 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modelageek View Post
I saw on your profile you are only 17. you are doing fine you will get it figured out. do some searching here and on TRS and take your multimeter and figure out where you have power to. You said you had no power to the coilpacks( I think the key needs to be on) So go back to the next item I think it is the ignition module, you did straighten out the 3rd screw thing on it right? if you dont have power at the IM go to the next item, find a wiring diagram. Post a thread asking why you dont have spark or post one asking if a bad crankshaft positioning sensor would give a no spark situation( I think it would but I am not positive) I think it has something to do with the guy changing the timing belt. then a day later the truck stopped running. could he have fubarred the crankshaft positioning sensor. you could post on the enthusists site. they have just one forum for these trucks so you get a lot of peeps looking at them.
Yeah, I'm sure I'll get it. It's just really starting to bother me. I've checked the coil packs and they wolnt get power even with the key on. The IM is good and I know a bad crank sensor can cause a no spark situation but the sensor cost 100-120, why not spend a little more and get a new motor. If it turns out being something other then that sensor Im going to try and keep the engine but I've been working on it too much and need a break, ill resume in a few days. I'll do some forum browsing like you said in the meantime.

thanks,
Tim
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  #23  
Old 02-04-2010, 02:35 AM
jfive jfive is offline
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Okay my rule of thumb on this situation. First you pull a spark plug and have someone turn the motor over and see if you have spark and then I pull the air duct at throttle body and squirt a little gas in with a spray bottle and see if it fires. This lets you know if you have a fuel problem or a spark problem. As for the spark. The wire at the fuse can sometimes be loose. Check at the coil to see if the coil is getting electricity. Also you can have spark and fuel and still not fire if the timing belt is broken. That happened to me once. Luckly I noticed the gear for the cylinder head wasn't moving and could see the belt had broke. I will check back to see what you think of my idea, and go from there.
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  #24  
Old 02-04-2010, 05:01 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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jfive. those are good thoughts. I will fill you in a little bit.A guy owned the truck and replaced the timing belt. the guy drove the truck for a day and then it died. the next day the OP bought the truck. so in theory it has a new timing belt and was driven for a day with it. I guess he should check and maybe he did that it did not break again. the OP has verified fuel. he does not have spark, he does not have power at the coil. he pulled the ignition module off and took it to AZ. they checked it and said it is fine.. he pulled the crankshaft positioning sensor off and is inspecting that. I am not sure if he has tested it at all. I think the OP got a little burnt out and is taking a few days off and then will be back. .keep your ideas coming.
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #25  
Old 02-04-2010, 06:21 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Jfive or anyone else. I have a few wuestions I am unsure of. Will a bad cranksgaft positioning sensor create a nospark situation. My next question. If your timing belt breaks. Would you still have spark and fuel on this 1994? How about a newer truck that has a camshaft positioning sensor
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #26  
Old 02-04-2010, 11:42 AM
jfive jfive is offline
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I would say thats not your problem. If you don't have power at the coil that is your issue. Someone I know said that he had this problem and found the connection at the fuse box was loose and thats all it was. Use a volt meter to verify you have power to the fuse and after. then trace the wire and make sure there isn't a short or something. Also check the ground, and make sure when testing at the coil to use a bare piece of metal for checking the ground. This is a 94 ranger engine right. Also since you have two coils, they don't usally both go bad, so thats not likely gonna ever be the problem. Also he may have not locked part of the wiring harness in. Also I have an extra wiring harness if you have a bad one. It has all the relays and stuff. I would still just get out the volt meter and do some checking with that and trace down the power issue.
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  #27  
Old 02-17-2010, 08:00 PM
timay4337 timay4337 is offline
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I gave up on it while the motor is in the truck, im not going to pay $100+ for a sensor when I can get an engine for a little more

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...html#post73468
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  #28  
Old 02-18-2010, 04:45 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timay4337 View Post
I gave up on it while the motor is in the truck, im not going to pay $100+ for a sensor when I can get an engine for a little more

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...html#post73468
why not buy the motor and then just swap the sensor and see if that does it.
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #29  
Old 02-18-2010, 10:59 AM
timay4337 timay4337 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modelageek View Post
why not buy the motor and then just swap the sensor and see if that does it.
found out there are some problems in the motor, im not sure what it is yet but im thinkin its a bad crank bearing.
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