Would anyone no if I would be able to use a type a 2.3 solid lifter lash adjusters for my 1996 2.3l

Can anyone help me with an answer to my question I just posted

yea my ranger has the same prob but it only does it on start up it doesnt really bother me

I have come to the conclusion that my top end needs a rebuild. I have tried every additive out there md it still ticks. Picked up a used engine with a good top end. Let the swap begin

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1998 2.5 Ranger XLT 2wd...with a cap

Yea am bout to swap mine to the svo 2.3 turbo out of a mustang. There really isnt much u can do about the tick i would either rebuild the top end or if u have the money 5.0 swap it would be ur best bet.

Dont know what model yours is but older fords with a lot of miles on them were bad about this, change oil and go to a thicker oil if that don't work you may go with stp or something close to this don't really like to do that but it has a lot of miles on it.

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Hi just got here got a 02 extented cab black sharp truck lots of them here were i live

Yea the value ticks are common on these motors with the high miles

My truck had the same problem, lifter tick etc. Tried everything i could to make it go away. Then caved in and took it to ford. Turns out MAP sensor was intermittently failing causing a temporary lean condition that wasn't throwing a code. New MAP sensor and all my ticks are 100% gone. Might be worth checking the voltage out real quick via multimeter.

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Owner of S motion Studios, Vintage Race prints.

Where is the MAP sensor located on these engines? I'm parting one out and for the life of me can't remember...sux getting old.

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1998 2.5 Ranger XLT 2wd...with a cap

Mine is a 1996 and ya it got a few miles on it lol and it's the 2.3

I had to join the forum just so I could get in on this thread. I have tried everything to get rid of the "tick" and am anxious to get someone's take on how they got rid of it. The MAP sensor sounds like a possibility. I just replaced the water pump because the shaft had a little free play in it and I've been cautious to put any additives in it. I also had a local shop tell me that it could be the idler pulley but I'm not so sure. How difficult would a top end rebuild/replace be? I wouldn't mind getting the valve covers off and just replacing some moving parts in there to get it quiet again.

Attached Images

91 Ranger.jpg (94.6 KB, 10 views)

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1991 Ranger 2.3L I4
200,000 miles

Lol I love your topper! Looks like a hurse (spelling?)

Sent from my rooted gingerbread Droid using the FRF App

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2000 Ford Ranger XL 2.5L 5-speed RWD 3.73 open - 170,000+ miles
Buggman LED 3BL/CARGO, Buggman Stang Dome LED conversion, LED Brake Light conversion, Line-X O.T.R., Air silencer removed
2.3L Headgasket/TIMING/Water Pump replacement guide

Hearse

2001 ranger xlt southern comfort package 2.3/5spd Sent from my GuyPhone

Your MAF sensor is located on the intake body by your filter. Whats likely happening is its intermittently working and causing a lean condition in your motors. What then happens is your not getting enough combustion to adequately work your valve train so it rattles, clicks etc think of it as constantly bogging down. I had NO CEL for mine. However when I voltage tested it on a whim it failed. $50 bucks later my valve/ rocker arm tick was long gone and has since never returned. I have 168k miles on my motor and just drove across the country over the rockies , desert etc. no problems no noises. Motor now drives like a champ....also I highly recommend cleaning out your intake manifolds etc. mine was FILTHY. Seafoam worked wonders.

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Owner of S motion Studios, Vintage Race prints.

I am definitely going to try that...I'll let you know how it goes. The camper shell is a Leer and its been on the truck since 1992.

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1991 Ranger 2.3L I4
200,000 miles