Hi All,

I just bought a new-to-me ford ranger (2008, 4cyl, stick) and have a question about the idle control. When engine is cold (in moderate outside temps ~65) idle is high for first minute or so (about 2K rpm), and is fine after engine is warm. I find 2K rpm awfully high for a cold engine, and this does not sound normal to me.

in relation to this, while warming up (first 12 mile or so), idle comes down slowly between gear shifts also. When warm, all is fine.

Can this be the IAC? The engine only has 45K and I just wouldn't think it could be so dirty already (but no idea what is typical on these trucks).

In a different thread on this forum I read:

"Some Ranger pickups may exhibit a higher-than-normal idle on cold startup, or whenever the clutch pedal is depressed. Ford says the condition affects trucks built on, or before, 02/01/10, and is due to software anomalies in the PCM. Reprogramming the module with updated software is the fix. To do the flash you'll need an IDS, or equivalent tool operating at release 64.06, and higher. If you have a subscription you can also download the new calibration files at www.motorcraft.com."

(the post is http://www.fordrangerforum.com/4-cyl...high-idle.html), and if this is the case, it would be a bit more serious.

Any thoughts on this?

Also, I don't have a service manual yet (on order), but does anyone have a pic on where the IAC is on the 4cyl (or can describe for me)? Then I can already take it off and clean it, just to eliminate it.

Thanks for any input! This is just such a fun little truck and just want to make sure that it's not taking a beating every time it's started from cold.

Their is a TSB on this issue, check with your local Ford dealer to find out if/how much it cost to flash the PCM to correct it.

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2010 Ranger XL 2.3L 5 Spd 3.73:1 Bone Stock
2013 Scion FR-S 2.0L/H-4, 6spd, 4.11:1 Fast Enough Stock

Dropped the truck off at the dealer today to see if there were any codes or abnormalities (vacuum etc). They found zero codes and all seems well. They are going to keep it overnight to check the cold start tomorrow morning and see if they can come up with anything.

Could a bad IAC (or anything else that could cause this high idle) occur without throwing a code?

About the idle, checked this morning. At cold start it will go up to about 2000 rpm, then (within 10-20 sec) come down gradually to 1500 rpm. After driving a few minutes (warm up) idle is down to 800 rpm, where it stays. The 800 rpm sounds good and is probably what it should be. Again, maybe all this is normal (does not sound normal to me), but would love to hear other experiences. I'm new to these engines.

I was also thinking that on a carburated engine, a choke would do something similar (higher idle at startup), so my guess is that it can't be all that terrible for a modern engine (maybe flawed argument, dunno:-)).

That sounds normal to me 4cyls are higher revving engines it just sounds to me like your idle control is trying to warm her up. When it was around 21 degrees in the morning where I'm from my 3.0 idled at around 1500 for a few then dropped to normal. If it isn't throwing codes and it's running fine she's just cold

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From my expierence a carbuerator has a choke for cold start and some fuel injected engines actualy have a separate injector just after the throttle bodie for cold starting

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2001 Ford Ranger EDGE 3.0 V6 5 speed
OEM front tow hooks
Class 3 tow bar
Rugged Liner Bedliner
3.73 gears
Stock size tires 235/75/R-15 Michalen LTX M/s2

Nick, way things are shaping up (no codes etc), it looks like you may be right. The only thing that bugs me is that we are in coastal California, and it rarely drops much below 50 degrees here. Truck does the high idle thing even when it's 60 degrees out, which just seems odd for a fuel-injected engine. Well, maybe it turns out to be normal, and if so I'll just have to learn to live with it. I just got this truck so just want to make sure I'm not abusing the engine unnecessarily.

Well I would look a little more into it but I wouldn't worry to much about it. My truck does something similar even if it's 70+ my truck will start at a higher idle if I haven't drove it that day but the period of the higher idle is much less than when it is cold. How long does the idle stay at 2000 when it's 60 degrees or more

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2001 Ford Ranger EDGE 3.0 V6 5 speed
OEM front tow hooks
Class 3 tow bar
Rugged Liner Bedliner
3.73 gears
Stock size tires 235/75/R-15 Michalen LTX M/s2

It's normal.....

Seriously??? Wtf?

Ever owned a car with a choke before?

Smh.

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1996 XLT 2.3T "White Lightning" 5/7 dropped, Turbo street toy
2006 FX4 Off Road, DD, work in progress
1985 XLT 2.8L 4x4 "The Black Pearl" (retired but still around)
1987 XL 2.3L 2wd R.I.P.

It sticks at 2000rpm for a few seconds, then gradually comes down to about 1500rpm (in about 15-20 secs), and then slowly comes down to normal idle revs (~700-800 rpm) when engine warms up while driving (few minutes).

So I got it back from the dealer. They checked everything, couldn't find anything wrong and then found the TSB on the high idle. So they reprogrammed what needed reprogramming and thought that would take care of it. However, when I picked it up it started in the exact same manner as before (they did not test it with a cold engine). They are now looking into other options.

You're right. It's probably not a huge deal. But it also does not sound normal (dealer confirmed that it was not normal), and would just prefer a (normal) low-revving cold start.

Not sure how the dealer story will develop, but will keep you posted. And any ideas very welcome.

normal

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2003 Ranger Edge ... crashed

2011 sport 4x4 with a little modification

Yes, I have driven carburated (with manual choke) cars up until 2000. However, since then I have been driving fuel injected engines and I have never had this sort of high-idle (choke-like) when cold as this one seems to have. I agree that it's probably not a big deal, and if it's normal, i'm fine with it. Just want to make sure that it is. Dealer seems to think it's abnormal. I don't know what to make of it yet.

Hey man today I had to drive my brothers corrola and it was about 65 this morning and I realize there two different engine types and brands and what not but his idled at 2000 for a minute or two before slowly dropping down to 1000 then like 900. But they are both fuel injected DOHC 4 cyls. I think it's just a thing with some 4 cyls. Like I said earlier a 4cyl is always gonna be a higher revving engine than a v6 or v8. Just how it is. I think your 2000 rpm idle is fine but if it's covered under warranty and you feel like making your dealership techs actually do some work let em sit there and try to find something wrong. I remember the techs at a ford dealership in augusta tried to rip off my cousin. She got a brand new focus and she kept getting a check engine light they tried to charge her 530 bucks for a new computer when all that was wrong was a EVAP sensor in the gas tank.

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2001 Ford Ranger EDGE 3.0 V6 5 speed
OEM front tow hooks
Class 3 tow bar
Rugged Liner Bedliner
3.73 gears
Stock size tires 235/75/R-15 Michalen LTX M/s2

It is a common behavior to have a high idle on cold startup. But its not supposed to rev for all that long. My boss has a 2008 Mazda car and the idle goes up intitally for Just a few seconds, then kicks down and warms up with a low idle. 2010 Ford Flex, same thing. I'm curious what causes that so let us know what the dealer can or can't figure out.

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86 ranger 4x4 2.3l efi gas non turbo 5 speed. Small lift. 2.25 in exh w/turbo muffler, no cat or egr. New cam, lifters, rocker arms (stock grind). New fuel pump in tank.

Ok, here's the follow-up. Will try to keep short.

Last week I call local dealer, explain in detail what's going on and ask if normal. They say not normal, and say I should bring it in. Over phone dealer guarantees me that they will diagnose the problem.

They check it, nothing. They keep it overnight, check cold-engine start-up, they conclude not normal, and decide to reprogram PCM. They call me up and say 'fixed!', and on the receipt indeed it said 'Vehicle okay now'. Great. I pick it up, start engine, exactly the same as before. wtf? I ask. Service person talks to mechanic who then says this is actually normal. What? I explain that if normal, they should have told me and I need not have brought it in (save money/time/hassle). Service guys see problem developing, start backtracking, and say maybe not normal and they will contact Ford (??). Two days later I call, no news. Get feeling there will not be news. When I ask why it is they do not know this stuff about such a common vehicle and need to contact Ford to figure it out, they claim they don't see that many rangers (what??).

Bit disappointed. Up till this point, these guys are great. Instead of just saying 'jee, looks like we might have screwed up on this, sorry about that, of course we won't charge you for this', they start circling and making the whole thing non-conclusive. Don't get that. Everybody makes mistakes, just take responsibility.

I decide I have had enough, call other nearby dealer. Talk to service specialist there. I explain start-up behavior, and he immediately says that that is exactly what it should be. Totally normal. As far as I am concerned, case closed. My best guess is that it is normal (for those of you that knew this already, you were right; should have listened to you instead of dealer:-)). Now all I need to do is get money back from dealer 1 (yeah I know, good luck with that :-)).

Anyway, thanks all for input. It seems this may be normal after all. I'm perfectly happy with that outcome of course, and still very happy with the Ranger; less happy with local stealer.

Same thing happens for me. 2k for maybe 10 seconds, then drops down gradually after that, settling at about 1k.

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2008 Mazda B2300
32k miles, Auto, standard 6' bed, stock 15x7 wheels, stock 225x70x15 tires

Its normal, most engines on a cold start should rev up to 1.5k-2k on initial first start on cold morning, its the PCM controlling the idle, and it might take 10 seconds or 2 minutes to come back down to normal idling rpm depending on the outside conditions ie; humidity, ambient air temperature, engine temp, rich/lean o2 sensor. If It stays at 2k for over 5-10 mins then you might have a faulty IAC valve/sensor, or a leaking vacuum line. I have a 97 ranger 2.3 L, and i live in VA its been consistant 25-30 degrees every morning for months, mine revs to 2k and sits there for about 2 mins and slowly drops down to 800 rpm. Hope this helps