I am going to clean my MAF hopefully today. Is it ok to use brake cleaner on this or should I be using something else?

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1998 Mazda B2500 Extra Cab 5sp manual
(1998 Ford Ranger 2.5 liter)

Cat back with Flowmaster
Headers (no name)
K&N intake
Power Aid TB spacer
JET Performance chip
Accel coils
Bilstein Shocks
Electric Fan coming soon!

Even if you could use that, I wouldn't.

Just get some electrical parts cleaner or MAF sensor cleaner from the auto parts store.

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ɹǝʌo ǝɯ dılɟ

I wasn't even aware they made "MAF cleaner". I'm heading to Napa today and will make sure to pick some up. Thanks for the info.

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1998 Mazda B2500 Extra Cab 5sp manual
(1998 Ford Ranger 2.5 liter)

Cat back with Flowmaster
Headers (no name)
K&N intake
Power Aid TB spacer
JET Performance chip
Accel coils
Bilstein Shocks
Electric Fan coming soon!

What is the truck doing thats requiring you to clean it? The reson i ask is because my truck was running rough and rich and I cleaned the MAF sensor and it didn't help. So I ruled out the MAF sensor as a problem and it turned out I needed a new MAF sensor and that fixed the problem.

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1998 Ford Ranger

147,000 on chassis, 50,000 on engine.
3.0 v6 5 speed 4x4...4x4 don't work lol

What I hope to do- Paint wheels, new head unit, exhaust, fix four wheel drive.

A lot of times a dirty MAF sensor isn't someones problem, but it's cheap and worthwhile to rule it out from being the problem by cleaning it.

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ɹǝʌo ǝɯ dılɟ

When i cleaned my IAC i used carb cleaner. My teacher said to not use brake cleaner.

cleaning the maf sensor should be done like every 2 oil changes . doesnt hurt to keep it clean

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is there a certain way to clean it . im planning on doing it to mine but dont want to do anything wrong

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99 extended cab 4x4 step side 3.0 completly stock

Just be careful when you spray inside the MAF. You dont want to damage or dislodge that little wire/sensor.

Other then that spray the hell out of it.

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2002 - XLT, 4.0L, 4x4

3" BL, 295 Nitto Terra Grapplers

K&N FIPK, Dual exhaust

Use the search feature, there are some full threads about this.

But in short, disconnect negative battery terminal. Unplug sensor from harness. Use torx bit...I think T20...and remove two screws. Pull out sensor. Clean it with MAF cleaner or another electrical parts cleaner. When you look inside the sensor you will see some electric diode looking things. Spray about 10 strong sprays into these diodes, blow it out a little and let it dry. Visually inspect it and make sure everything looks ok. Install back into truck and hook everything up with the negative battery terminal last. Do this every once in a while or like above said, every 2 oil changes. Didn't do much for me but it can't really hurt it either.

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~-SOLD-~
04' Edge 6 Cyl 3.0 5 Speed Manual 107K Miles
3" Body Lift - 33" All Terrain Tires
Drop In K&N Filter - Flowmaster - XM Commander Satellite Radio

Maf cleaner($6)
tamper proof torx 20
let dry after cleaning.
Do not touch maf "bulb"
clean iacv while you are in there. You can use maf cleaner if you want. The iacv has a small motor attached to it and a bypass looking thing. You unbolt the iacv and cleanout the crap in the bypass. Get a new gasket if you can.

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

easiest way to see if your MAF is causing you problems is just unplug it and see it if runs better

With it unplugged, the computer will go into a default setting, so if it runs rough before, and unplug it runs smoother, then you know your MAF is faulty, either dirty or need of replacment

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2004 Explorer Sport Trac XLT premium 4.0L auto 4wd
1995 Ranger XLT ext cab 3.0L auto 2wd
2005 Jeep Liberty Limited 3.7L auto 4wd
2001 Ranger XLT reg cab 2.3L auto 2wd--SOLD
1999 Ranger XLT reg cab 2.5L manual 2wd--SOLD

I have a 2002 ranger thats having a bogging problem at certain RPM's,..which is giving me sputtery acceleration in some gears. But this also doesnt happen all the time. Sometimes it runs fine and idles fine. I used my OBD tester to test the truck,..and i got the P0171 code "Fuel System Too Lean (Cylinder Bank 1). check this on google and i got this >"You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration. A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

* The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
* There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.
Gona pull that sensor off and see if that fixes my issue. Hope that helps anyone else

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2002 Ford Ranger Bagged(soon to be bodydropped)

List of Mods: Full air bag suspension/Custom lower control arms w/ bag mounts/8" C-notch/4-link paralel to frame/1/2" valves/1/2" lines/5 gallon air tank/Viair 460c compressor/custom roll pan fabricated for rear/billet grille/10 switch box(pancake/seesaw/side2side/ect)
Full stereo

the only time my engine sputters is when my engine is warm. when it is cold like when first starte it. it drives fine and gets up and goes good until it warms up

Go to radio shack and buy a can of spray tuner cleaner, perfect for that. Unless you have a filter that needs to be oiled, clean the MAF every couple of years. The MAF shouldn't get dirty quick unless your filter is failing of you have a leak somewhere around there.

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