Could EGR tube leak cause 2.3 to run this rough?

94mtx · #1 08-26-2011, 05:38 PM

Here's a video. You can see how much the wires are shaking in the video and at the end of the video you can see it shake near the exhaust manifold... Wondering if an exhaust leak in the EGR tube (cracked when I bent it doing a HG job) could cause the 2.3L to run rough (shakes back and forth on the mounts a little bit).

http://youtu.be/MuCZejBWSEQ

94mtx · #2 08-26-2011, 06:22 PM

Bump

webster426 · #3 08-26-2011, 06:52 PM

I highly doubt it.....post a pick of the cracked tube please.

94mtx · #4 08-26-2011, 06:57 PM

I will tomorrow when it's light out and I can actually see the crack. Damn sun why can't you always be out?! :P

I just put everything back together from my headgasket job... Any other ideas on this one?

Oh, and can I run a compression test by only removing the exhaust manifold side plugs?

webster426 · #5 08-26-2011, 07:08 PM

Compression test is completed by removing a spark plug and testing the particular cylinder. You can test all 4 of them but you will need to remove all four of them, one at a time. What makes you want to run a compression check? Are you buring oil? Bad piston ring?

Did this issue start immediately after your head gasket job?

94mtx · #6 08-26-2011, 07:12 PM

It was shaking like this a little bit before the job as well, I don't know if it was exactly the same or not. Seems a bit worse now...

Just wanted to run a compression test for the hell of it. Just had a blown headgasket that I replaced. Figure I might as well get some readings while it's fresh.

Could the shaking be missing on a single plug (like 1/2 the plugs) on a single cylinder?

Just trying to guess on what it might be.

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oh, and FWIW, I have no CEL on right now.

webster426 · #7 08-26-2011, 07:17 PM

Most common issue in these scenarios is your plug wires are not on the right plugs. I would double check everything is hooked up correctly and report back. Definately post that pick of the line when you get a chance, it isnt causing the rough idle, but I would definately repair it anyway.

Also, good thinking with the compression check, its been a long day and I wasnt thinking about the obvious! =P

94mtx · #8 08-26-2011, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by webster426

Most common issue in these scenarios is your plug wires are not on the right plugs. I would double check everything is hooked up correctly and report back. Definately post that pick of the line when you get a chance, it isnt causing the rough idle, but I would definately repair it anyway.

Also, good thinking with the compression check, its been a long day and I wasnt thinking about the obvious! =P

Don't worry. I understand completely! It's been a long week for me. 40+ hours at work, then a few hours of work on the Ranger every day after work for a week. I'm tired lol

94mtx · #9 08-27-2011, 07:43 AM

Wires are in the correct places.

She runs pretty rough. Hope someone can chime in.

94mtx · #10 08-27-2011, 09:27 AM

Just picked up a new set of wires...

Anybody think it could be my new champion plugs?

94mtx · #11 08-27-2011, 10:19 AM

Ok, wasn't the wires.

Tried adjusting the TB plate set screw a little higher, (a little higher RPM the shakiness isn't even half as bad), but now when I accelerate and step on the clutch, the engine RPMs are still high like the throttle is stuck where I came off the gas, until the truck comes to a stop then it drops. Tried turning it back down and it's doing the same thing :|

EDIT: It doesn't do this at all when the truck is sitting still (IE, step on the gas, get off the gas, RPM drops to normal)

webster426 · #12 08-27-2011, 10:29 AM

ALWAYS stick to motorcraft for spark plugs. You clean your IAF and MAF recently? How does your air filter look? Start with the basics before you look at the more difficult issues.

94mtx · #13 08-27-2011, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by webster426

ALWAYS stick to motorcraft for spark plugs. You clean your IAF and MAF recently? How does your air filter look? Start with the basics before you look at the more difficult issues.

By IAF do you mean IAC? (Idle Air Control)?

I have cleaned out the throttle body (but removed the throttle position sensor and idle air control before the cleaning).

Air filter isn't bad. IDK about the MAF though. am I supposed to clean it?

webster426 · #14 08-27-2011, 10:39 AM

MAF sensor can be cleaned with some electrical cleaner. IAC is the Idle Air Controller Valve and should be cleaned as well.

Maybe someone who knows more about your specific model could chime in as well....I have a 2000 so a lot of your components are different. Did you do anything with the timing belt during the head gasket job?

94mtx · #15 08-27-2011, 01:09 PM

Yep. replaced

Timing belt
Timing belt tensioner
Headgasket
Head bolts
Intake to head gasket
Lower intake to upper intake gasket
EGR gasket
Throttle body gasket
Idle air control gasket
Valve cover gasket
Exhaust manifold gasket

Water pump + gasket
Thermostat + gasket

Spark plugs (Now MotorCraft Platinum)
Spark plug wires

I just did a manual scan on the Ranger (since it is OBD1) following this procedure:
http://www.extreme-check-engine-ligh...%20Decoder.htm

I came up with the following flashes from the test light...

1 (fast-strobing) steady flash (this was the first flash)
3 (non-strobing) flashes
1 (non-strobing) flash
3 (non-strobing) flashes
3 (non-strobing) flashes

Can anybody tell me what these codes equate to on my Ranger?