Ok guys,

I'm planning to replace the timming belt that literally tore in half last year when I was about to go to the freeway...now after a year and half of waiting and waiting, I have got tired and want to do it myself. I have done light work in the engine before like spark plug replacements, battery cleaning...but nothing this complex I guess and I don't have the money to pay someone else do it...But I do have the haynes Repair manual to guide me, but if anyone else has scematics or drawing of step by step guides...much appreciative

you say you have a 4.0 but you posted in the 4 cylinder tech section. 4.0 is a V6 and has a timing chain, not a belt. do you have a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder?

also, to help us better answer your questions, please create a signature so we know some details about your truck http://www.fordrangerforum.com/site-...signature.html

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i'm sorry, that was a typing error, its supposedly a four cylinder..going to edit the first post, but yeah a 4.0 cylinder with timming belt...its a 1993 ford ranger xl

4 cylinder, stop typing 4.0 that means 4.0 liters

if you have a 93 4 cylinder its a 2.3 Liter

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found that on a simple google search "I DID NOT WATCH this" description fits your engine, he seems to have a 1, 2, 3. part thing on it...

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Your truck is "supposedly" a 4 cylinder??????? It is either a 4 or 6 cylinder and if you aren't sure...................

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I watched it......very good video! thanks for posting that........

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

Thanks video was very helpful.......anybody have a pic or video of where the cam sensor is on a 2.3?

a 1993 2.3 does not have a cam sensor........later models it is behind the oil pump

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

my truck is a 96....i looked it up on alldata and yea it was saying you have to take the ac pump off and power steering pump off....which i dont have power steering

The timing belt on my 1997 Ford Ranger (2.3L, 5spd) broke on the way home last Monday. I searched the various forums and repair manuals for how to proceed with replacing the belt. Most write ups were accurate, but incomplete, so I figured I’d write out the process I used. Let me know of any revisions that need to be made. Hope this helps some of you guys.
1. Set parking brake, place transmission in 5th gear (man trans).
2. Disconnect battery cable
3. Drain coolant
4. Remove accessory belt (by holding pressure on the tensioner w/ a 3/8 ratchet) and 4 (10mm) cooling fan bolts.
5. Remove radiator hoses, 2 bolts on each side of radiator, and lift out radiator/fan/shroud. Set aside.
6. Remove the 22mm balancer bolt. TIP: If the bolt cannot be removed via impact wrench, use a ratchet w/ a breaker bar. Lay the breaker bar on the driver’s side frame rail, hook up the battery, and bump the starter to loosen a stubborn balancer bolt.
7. Use a 7” 3 jaw gear puller to remove the balancer. A typical harmonic balancer puller will not work. There are no threaded holes in the factory balancer to pull from. A 3 jaw puller can be rented ($free) from most parts stores.
8. Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the AC compressor to the bracket. Use wire/string to tie up out of the way. Remove the 4 bolts holding the AC compressor/powersteering bracket to the block and tie up out of the way.
9. Remove plastic timing belt cover (1 bolt, several plastic clips)
10. Loosen timing belt tensioner bolt (not the tensioner spring bolt, the smaller bolt in the slotted portion of the tensioner bracket). Using a long screwdriver, remove tension on the belt, and retighten the tensioner bolt. Remove old belt.
11. Rotate engine to TDC (place trans in neutral). Crankshaft keyway will be at the 12 o’clock position. Align timing marks on oil pump and camshaft sprockets.
12. Install new belt taking caution to maintain timing alignment of sprockets. Loosen tensioner bolt again and let tensioner take up the slack on the timing belt. Retighten bolt to manuf. spec. Manually rotate engine, verify timing alignment.
13. OPTIONAL: Re-install balancer and bolt. Connect battery. Start engine, turn off after it starts (for a few seconds).
14. (remove balancer and bolt, unhook battery). Re-install timing cover, balancer and bolt, AC/PS bracket, AC compressor, radiator/shroud/fan, battery cable, and accessory belt.
15. Fill coolant: fill radiator, idle until engine is up to temp (thermostat opens), with rad cap off and continue to fill radiator until full. Shut-off and install radiator cap.
16. Test drive. Allow to cool and re-check coolant levels.

That video above did help....and thank you bmjwright for your write up.

I am going to replace the water pump, thermostat, tensioner,..... b/c its only smart to do so while your in there

Glad to help.

I didn't replace the h2o pump, thermo, or tensioner...mainly because I don't like to replace working parts and if one of those goes out, it'll only take an hour or two to repair.

back when my timing belt broke on my old 94

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Well to me....my way of thinking....my truck has 215k+ on it and im sure it would not hurt at all to replace alot of moving parts. If my timing belt is the original then to me it only makes good since to just go ahead and replace other moving components....its something a mechanic friend of mine taught me loooooong ago

I have removed the 4 bolts indicated, that hold the power steering pump bracket on. However, there is still no budging the bracket out of the way to take the timing belt cover off. I have not seen a 1993 2.3 engine timing belt removal on the web. I believe the 1993 2.3 has a different bracket that what has been shown. I believe there is a 5th bolt/nut. Its at the very bottom of the bracket. The bolt/nut lays horizontally (threads toward passenger side, head toward driver side)and bolts to the block. There is NO room to get a socket on it. Am I looking at the right bolt? If I take the crank pulley off, will I be able to get the timing cover off without removing the steering pump bracket? Help