I bought this truck new and it has always put out a lot of vibration while it's idling in gear. It's never stalled or had trouble starting, it just vibrates a lot. Is this a common thing?

I have an 08 as well and mine does the same thing. I think it's because it's an automatic transmission. As you accelerate it smooths out right?

I have a 08 Auto Trans same thing, just changed plugs,air filter,fuel filter and cleaned throttle body same thing

The 2.3 Duratecs idle smooth as silk, never heard of one that didn't....until this thread. VERY uncommon to say the least.

__________________

I too have a rough idle. You can easily feel it in the seats, the gas pedal, and the steering wheel. Sometime worse than others. Almost feels like a grinding in the gas pedal.

When stopped at a light, the whole truck vibrates.
More so when very cold, but to a lesser degree when warm.

I cleaned (properly) the MAF sensor (5 times in a row) and it got worse.

No codes.
Drinks gas like a thirsty camel on a hot summer day when temps are below 40F. Colder it is the faster it drinks gas. I can actually see the gas gauge move a needle width when only driving 3 miles. That is about 3 to 6 mpg. I start it, wait for rpm's to drop to about 1050, put in gear and drive slowly till it warms on it's own.
Thermostat was replaced by Ford last year. It refuses to warm up unless driven. Acts exactly like a diesel in that respect.

Trans is shifting a little funny too.

Mine is a 2008 ranger xlt (styleside, reg cab, short bed), 2.3L, automatic, 2WD. 42,000 miles.

Dealer last winter says nothing wrong. Another repair shop this winter can't find anything wrong either.

I tried seafoam and B12 chemtool. Slight improvement.
This time I tried BG 44K cleaner ($28 a can) and things seemed noticeably improve. But still drinks gas and runs rough.

Once I get above 2000rpm it doesn't seem to run rough.

I do on occasion hear a snapping noise from underneath the truck.

No soot in the tail pipe.

Before I had this problem I could get 35MPG on the highway (48 mpg max speed, not the 65+ speed limit)

One says it might be a intake manifold o-ring leaking vacuum. I sprayed ether around everything and no change in condition or increase in rpm.
Internet sources indicate bad EGR.
Other internet sources say bad/clogged IAC or bad MAF.
Another says it might be sticking valves - possible because I hear valve rattle when cold but it has always done that since new.
Others say might be bad spark plugs, wire(s) or coil pack.
I didn't see an IMRC valve on it but that doesn't mean it doesn't have one.
Another says it might be a coil in the transmission?
Another says it might be a cam sensor.
Another says it might be the computer (possible but doubtful).

I used to run a K & N air filter but when the problem arose I put in a new paper filter. Still no improvement. I removed the air box baffle to see if that might help. Nope.

Muffler getting loud too, but no rust through yet.

I don't want to throw parts at it nor pay for hours and hours of diagnostics.

I fear that it might be the egr valve, which from what I read it is a VERY expensive job to do. Supposedly it requires pulling the transmission to get to it. 5-8 hours of labor plus the part....
And that doesn't include decarbonizing the passage if needed.

I thought about cleaning the IAC thinking that it is sticking.
I also thought about replacing the MAF sensor since the problem got worse after cleaning it.

Should I replace the MAF sensor? It costs $120 aftermarket plus core.

I do have a slight hesitation when stepping on the gas pedal from a stop. Ever so slight.

I rarely go above 2000 rpms to save gas. I will once a week go on the highway at highway speeds and 'blow out' the carbon (never see any).

At my wits end here.

At $80/hr for diagnostics I could very easily get ripped off.
And I would have to pay that even if they couldn't find or fix the problem.

I have a 2010, similar problems. I have a bad oil leak in the engine though.

__________________
2010, 2.3L, Extended Cab, 130,000 Miles, No Mods

Try cleaning you're MAP sensor

__________________
2006 Ranger. 2.3l 5 speed
Air box mod and throttle cable mod.
Tri-fold tonneau cover. VHT taillights. Tinted corner lights.
fog lights.black headlights.
LED driving lights, dome, 3rd breaklight, LED tailgate light bar and LED foot wells. LED tails.
4.10 stock gears[/COLOR]

My Build:

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...ger-build.html

He does not have a MAP Sensor.

----------
First thing to do with a rough idle is to clean the IACV.

The 2.3's have a pcv valve that needs to be replaced as maintenance. You need to remove the front left tire to get to it.

The other issue on some 2.3's is the nickel size plug on the intake that can loosen up. Usually throws a lean code.

__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecata...parttype=11207

looks like a map sensor to me. Op has a 08 2.3. Unless I'm missing something.

__________________
2006 Ranger. 2.3l 5 speed
Air box mod and throttle cable mod.
Tri-fold tonneau cover. VHT taillights. Tinted corner lights.
fog lights.black headlights.
LED driving lights, dome, 3rd breaklight, LED tailgate light bar and LED foot wells. LED tails.
4.10 stock gears[/COLOR]

My Build:

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...ger-build.html

I agree, That link you posted is a MAP sensor!

__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

2001-2011. It definitely isn't talked about much but its as important as the MAF in regards to how the truck will respond. Easy to clean btw.

__________________
2006 Ranger. 2.3l 5 speed
Air box mod and throttle cable mod.
Tri-fold tonneau cover. VHT taillights. Tinted corner lights.
fog lights.black headlights.
LED driving lights, dome, 3rd breaklight, LED tailgate light bar and LED foot wells. LED tails.
4.10 stock gears[/COLOR]

My Build:

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...ger-build.html

Post a picture of your MAP so we can see where it is?

__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

Here is where the MAP is. Right in the center rear if the engine.image-1947370251.jpg
image-1766847440.jpg




Before cleaning.image-2000399700.jpg
image-688429070.jpg





After cleaning.image-1862703310.jpg
image-4073512079.jpg

__________________
2005 2.3L XL 5SOD 3.73 K&N
KYB Shocks Husky Toolbox
Alpine / Rockford Fosgate Sound

"Ask me about my AC Vent fix!"

Odd...

I never saw a PCV valve on the side of th eengine. Mine is on top right in front.

Edit:
Additional.

I cleaned my MAF again. I also sprayed MAF cleaner into the TB and tried to clean some of that out too.

I looked in and it looked AWFUL inside.

I am afraid to try to clean too much for fear of a backfire when restarting and causing the intake to explode.

I will have to check that MAP sensor!

I hope and PRAY that is all it needs is a simple cleaning. Otherwise it is off to the dealer and sell a kidney on ebay to pay for diagnostics and repairs.

I notices that the water vapor from my tailpipe 'peters out' and not a good flow not much vapor at all.

Perhaps a clog somewhere? Or just extremely lean?

I have no codes and that is the aggravating thing.

Ever shop I take it too pulgs in a 'box' and scans the computer. No problems found (of course). Apparently none of the young mechanics bother to learn how to aggressively determine a problem.

The computer is like a go-no go gauge. Either it gives a code or it don't. And just because you don't get a code doesn't mean that nothing is wrong.

Too lean a condition and you can burn valves. Too rich and you wash oil from the cylinders and ruin your rings.

Ford really needs to fix their fuel mapping for more real life situations.

It would be nice if those boxes could pull actual information out like actual map sensor readings and O2 readings and MAF readings.

Apparently they don't or the mechanics would have seen the problem.

Say you had a clogged MAP sensor. Opening and closing the TB should make it jump up and down drastically. And the O2 sensor should follow in short order.

A bad MAF sensor - the range of operation is too wide. Being on the edge of the parameters is bad. Not enough to trip a code and yet bad enough to give you fits.

Here is a good write up about the issue:
http://www.ehow.com/list_7453934_sym...p-sensor_.html

__________________
Computers are like air conditioners - they quit working when you open windows....

Yup. No one with the 2.3 wants to deal with the pcv. Most 2.3 owners don't even know where it is. They throw every part at known to man kind and find out the problem is the pcv. http://www.rangerpowersports.com/for.../t-170635.html

__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).