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  #1  
Old 06-06-2011, 04:03 AM
jasperpops jasperpops is offline
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Default 99 Mazda 52500/Ranger Spark Plugs Location

New to the forum...

First, thanks to all the members here who share information on this neat little truck. After reading several posts as a guest I narrowed down my 99 Mazda B2500 problems to new spark plugs and wires.

It was idling rough and chugging/shuddering at high speeds. No power at high speeds. Terrible mileage.

I've successfully (but painstakingly) replaced six of the eight plugs and wires. The four on the passenger side and front two on drivers side. The last two on the drivers side look IMPOSSIBLE to reach and replace myself. Looks like the exhaust manifold is right on top of them!

Do I really need to remove the manifold to access those plugs? Is that what a mechanic would have to do? If so, how difficult is it to remove and put back? Is it something I should attempt or leave it to a professional.

BTW - I've already experience vast improvement in the idling but haven't put it on the open road yet for higher speeds...

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 06-09-2011, 08:08 PM
carsdlt carsdlt is offline
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Default Re: 99 Mazda 52500/Ranger Spark Plugs Location

Did this not too long ago on my '99 - it's a pain but you can get the socket down on the plug and loosen with a wobble joint on a long extension. Just put the socket on first. Good luck.
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  #3  
Old 06-10-2011, 12:16 PM
jasperpops jasperpops is offline
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Default Re: 99 Mazda 52500/Ranger Spark Plugs Location

Thanks for your reply. I'll try it.

Going to tackle it this weekend.

A guy at work suggested removing the driver side front tire and mud guards and approach these last two plugs from underneath the manifold. We'll see.
Going to try a couple of different approaches. We'll see.

Will report back for benefit of others.
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  #4  
Old 06-11-2011, 10:31 AM
Buicksandmazdas Buicksandmazdas is offline
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Default Re: 99 Mazda 52500/Ranger Spark Plugs Location

It's really not that hard once you figure out what you are doing. Once you manage to get the plastic boots off the plugs you can use a spark plug socket and a long extension to remove the plugs. It's a straight shot to the plugs in between the intake runners.
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  #5  
Old 06-13-2011, 04:06 AM
jasperpops jasperpops is offline
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Default Re: 99 Mazda 52500/Ranger Spark Plugs Location

You were absolutely right! I looked at it three times this Sunday, thinking of giving up. The trick that worked for me: I fashioned a sturdy "hook" from a clothes hanger. I fed it through the openings in the manifold and hooked the end around the plastic pull for the plug boots. Steady, firm pulling popped each one off nicely. Was able to reuse each. A universal socket adapter and long extension did the trick for plug removal and replacement. Definitely took time and patience but what a feeling to finally get it done! Thanks to everyone for advice (past and present posters).
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  #6  
Old 06-13-2011, 04:51 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: 99 Mazda 52500/Ranger Spark Plugs Location

Quote:
Originally Posted by jasperpops View Post
You were absolutely right! I looked at it three times this Sunday, thinking of giving up. The trick that worked for me: I fashioned a sturdy "hook" from a clothes hanger. I fed it through the openings in the manifold and hooked the end around the plastic pull for the plug boots. Steady, firm pulling popped each one off nicely. Was able to reuse each. A universal socket adapter and long extension did the trick for plug removal and replacement. Definitely took time and patience but what a feeling to finally get it done! Thanks to everyone for advice (past and present posters).
glad you got it done.......I hope you used motorcraft or autolite plugs..For future members I recommend buying a new set of Autolite wires, advance auto sells them for $35 or a set of Motorcraft wires, Rockauto sells them for $38. They have the hooks on them that make the install easier. .as stated it is not as tough as it looks once you do it once or twice. I have done them twice now and can change the 8 plugs and wires in less than an hour without removing the intake....one excellent suggestion that I have heard is that if you do remove the intake make sure you change the coolant hose that goes to the TB......if your coolant hose is old removing the intake to do both the hose and plugs might be worth it.........By the way, did it solve your issue?...........I would change the fuel filter, clean the TB, IACV and MAF, replace PCV, air filter also!!!!!!!!!Add some Techron to the tank.....

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here is a link for changing the fuel filter....go to post #15.http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...?t=102197....I us a different tool but they both work........http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-AST8012-Fuel-Filter-Remover/dp/B000K1DK2Y
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

Last edited by modelageek; 06-13-2011 at 05:04 AM.
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  #7  
Old 06-14-2011, 03:27 PM
jasperpops jasperpops is offline
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Default Re: 99 Mazda 52500/Ranger Spark Plugs Location

Unfortunately, I didn't buy the Motorcraft plugs. Went with Bosch Platinum +2 before I read so many folks suggesting Motorcraft. But it's not the end of the world. So, maybe they won't last another 100,000 miles. Took more than 10 years to put that many miles on it in the first place.

The truck does seem to be running better and is more responsive. I feel it could do a little better so I'm trying to get someone to help remove/replace fuel filter. I tried and tried to remove the old one with the metal disconnect tool they sold me at AutoZone - with no success. Just utter frustration. I did clean the MAF. Air filter is fine. What does TB and IACV stand for? Also, where is the PCV valve? If it's not a nightmare and inexpensive I may change that.

Also did an oil change successfully. Do you recommend the Mobil One synthetic oil?

Thanks for the interest and support!

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P.S.

Great link to the other site on fuel filter removal. Great photos and tips.
I think I'll invest a little more money and get a different removal tool. And try it again myself.

Thanks again!
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  #8  
Old 06-15-2011, 04:22 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: 99 Mazda 52500/Ranger Spark Plugs Location

Quote:
Originally Posted by jasperpops View Post
Unfortunately, I didn't buy the Motorcraft plugs. Went with Bosch Platinum +2 before I read so many folks suggesting Motorcraft. But it's not the end of the world. So, maybe they won't last another 100,000 miles. Took more than 10 years to put that many miles on it in the first place.

The truck does seem to be running better and is more responsive. I feel it could do a little better so I'm trying to get someone to help remove/replace fuel filter. I tried and tried to remove the old one with the metal disconnect tool they sold me at AutoZone - with no success. Just utter frustration. I did clean the MAF. Air filter is fine. What does TB and IACV stand for? Also, where is the PCV valve? If it's not a nightmare and inexpensive I may change that.

Also did an oil change successfully. Do you recommend the Mobil One synthetic oil?

Thanks for the interest and support!

----------

P.S.

Great link to the other site on fuel filter removal. Great photos and tips.
I think I'll invest a little more money and get a different removal tool. And try it again myself.

Thanks again!
TB=throttle body, IACV=idle air control vavle. I use Mobil 1 FS 5w30

FYI when I purchased my truck 3 years ago. I replaced the plugs with bosch +2's that autozone recomended......this was before I joined the forums.......my truck developed a cyl 3 misfire within 5k miles. it took me a while to figure it out. the tip of the white insulater on the Bosch plug had been eaten away.......I replaced them with Autolites and the problem was solved.

you probably got the scissors looking tool. I would get the one I mentioned or the one in the thread...make sure you pull the fuel pump relay and start the truck....this wll relive the pressure........hot the ends of the fuel filter with a rust penetrate.......study that thread... it is not as tough as you think......I have changed 3 filters so far in my life.....the last one I changed start to finish in 8 minutes...

here is a pic of the PCV valve. that is the fuel rail next to it

__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

Last edited by modelageek; 06-15-2011 at 04:26 AM.
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  #9  
Old 06-19-2011, 04:27 AM
jasperpops jasperpops is offline
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Default Re: 99 Mazda 52500/Ranger Spark Plugs Location

FINALLY - got determined as a billy goat and bought the plastic quick disconnect tool for fuel filter removal. After about 45 minutes, using pair of pliers as leverage to activate the springs/clips inside fuel line, I got that darned old fuel filter out!!! Followed everyone's advice about making sure to discharge fuel pressure (took out fuel pump fuse under hood).
Took only a few minutes to pop in the new filter.

Weird thing: When the old fuel filter came off, really dirty, oily or sooty fuel came pouring out of the canister and fuel line. Is this normal? Or signs of another problem?
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  #10  
Old 06-19-2011, 05:06 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: 99 Mazda 52500/Ranger Spark Plugs Location

Quote:
Originally Posted by jasperpops View Post
FINALLY - got determined as a billy goat and bought the plastic quick disconnect tool for fuel filter removal. After about 45 minutes, using pair of pliers as leverage to activate the springs/clips inside fuel line, I got that darned old fuel filter out!!! Followed everyone's advice about making sure to discharge fuel pressure (took out fuel pump fuse under hood).
Took only a few minutes to pop in the new filter.

Weird thing: When the old fuel filter came off, really dirty, oily or sooty fuel came pouring out of the canister and fuel line. Is this normal? Or signs of another problem?
good job........the crap in the fuel line is just becasue the filter was filthy.........I would run Techron though the tank a few times.....you can do it every 3rd tank of gas........I also would consider changing the fuel filter again in 5k or 6 months.......also.....bring all the rest of the maintenance up..........it is not very tough or expensive and it will pay off in the long run and keep you from breaking down, change the coolant and tsta= $25, ait filter, check/add differential fluid, gaterback serp belt $20, do the turkey baster method for swapping out brake fluid and powersteering fluid, if you have a 5speed drain the tranny and add Mercon atf 2.8 quarts........etc, etc
__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #11  
Old 06-19-2011, 05:14 AM
jasperpops jasperpops is offline
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Default Re: 99 Mazda 52500/Ranger Spark Plugs Location

Man, you're being a great help here. Thanks!
Already thinking the way you are. Will take your advice on the Techron.
And already bought some new antifreeze to do just what you suggest.
Forgive my ignorance, but what is tsta?

Are there any tutorial links you can post on the differential fluid check/add?
Same with serpentine belt?

As for brake and power steering, I assume you mean suck out the existing fluid from each of the resevoirs using turkey baster and replace with new fluid, right?
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  #12  
Old 06-19-2011, 05:35 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: 99 Mazda 52500/Ranger Spark Plugs Location

Quote:
Originally Posted by jasperpops View Post
Man, you're being a great help here. Thanks!
Already thinking the way you are. Will take your advice on the Techron.
And already bought some new antifreeze to do just what you suggest.
Forgive my ignorance, but what is tsta?

Are there any tutorial links you can post on the differential fluid check/add?
Same with serpentine belt?

As for brake and power steering, I assume you mean suck out the existing fluid from each of the resevoirs using turkey baster and replace with new fluid, right?
tsta was a typo it should have been t-stat=thermostat.......I would only use a M0torcraft tstat...you can order parts from rockauto.com. on these trucks some parts are best to stay with motorcraft. the t-stat is one of them.......

do a search for the belt and differential fluid swap..........to check the fluid for the diff crawl under the truck with a 3/8 ratchet and an extension......there is a bolt just of the drivshaft toward the drivers side it is about halfway up the differential......take it out and stick your finger in there.......fluid should be filled to that hole

I bought a few new turkey basters for $1 each and use one for the brake, one for the tranny etc......

also it is a god idea to crate a signature/profile like I have with details about your truck...it helps other members when diagnosing issues.

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the more details you can think about for your profile the better......If you have AC put that down if you dont have AC put that down a...mielage, tranny, type of cab, 2wd or 4 wd.......etc etc......
__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
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  #13  
Old 06-19-2011, 05:42 AM
jasperpops jasperpops is offline
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Default Re: 99 Mazda 52500/Ranger Spark Plugs Location

Roger that. And got your message about other forums - thanks for that.
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1999 Mazda B2500, Regular Cab 2WD,
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  #14  
Old 06-19-2011, 06:18 AM
jasperpops jasperpops is offline
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Default Re: 99 Mazda 52500/Ranger Spark Plugs Location

P.S. Forgot to mention I replaced the PCV thanks to your great photo.
For other posters who questioned location and accessibility on the 99's - It was fairly easy to pop out once I angled my hand down in there. I grabbed it with my two fingers and popped it out, then wriggled it out of the hose.
Hose looked fine. No cracks or splits I could see. PCV was only a couple of bucks and went back in with five minutes of work.
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