It was an obvious lie. Things floating in a new quart of oil? C'mon man.

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1996 Ford Ranger 2wd 2.3L, 407,000 miles of fury
2008 Ford F-150 4wd 4.6L
1987 Honda 250r quad

Your Dad is a trained Licensed mechanic ?

Go to you local auto parts shop and just get the $20 special. AS long as you regularly change your oil and filter your in the clear. And while your changing your wiper fluid you might wanna look for the flux capacitor and blow it out. some times they get clogged. a quick shot of canned air should be fine

Exactly, as long as you buy a decent filter (Motorcraft, Fram, K&N, Wix, Mobil 1 ..) and change your oil when needed you shouldnt have a problem with any of them. I only use expensive oil and filters because I drive in Vegas where it gets hot and there is alot of stop and go in the 30-50 miles I often drive a day. Otherwise Id be satisfied with a conventional oil and filter.

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2002 Ranger XLT 3.0
General Grabber AT2 31/10.5/15, 15x7 ATX Slot, Hot girlfriend for passenger seat, Fabtech 2.5", Bilstein 5100, Poly Bumps, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Straigh pipe, Throttle Cable Mod, Air Box Mod, 5 Angle Valve Job, 180* Thermostat, Clear corners w/ Amber LEDs, Tinted Tails, 6000K Volt Digital HID Hi/Lo, K&N Drop-In, MAF Mod,

They now sell an oil viscosity test kit in Walmart.

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Either or, the oil isn't fussy as to the type of paper material(synthetic or organic) both do basically the same job.

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2010 Ranger XL 2.3L 5 Spd 3.73:1 Bone Stock
2013 Scion FR-S 2.0L/H-4, 6spd, 4.11:1 Fast Enough Stock

synthetic filters are supposed to have a finer filter in them if i understand correctly, but i run amsoil and good quality filter

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JIM, 2005 xlt super cab silver, 4.0, 410, whelen mini edge 6 strobes, led's front and rear, hella work lights front bumper, work light rear

Look at what the guy posted......I would say he is BSing too. He noticed the viscousity was off........sounds like an outright lie to me also. However the Casey Anthony jury might believe him.

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Actually I deal with viscosity all the time and can tell by looking at how the fluid moves if it is right or not.

many years ago like early 1980's i bought quaker state to do an oil change and you could tell a differance between two quarts, one was real thin and one was thick, there was a rumor going around that they were having trouble, i have not used it since, however i am sure it was a short lived promblem and qs ic fine to use now

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JIM, 2005 xlt super cab silver, 4.0, 410, whelen mini edge 6 strobes, led's front and rear, hella work lights front bumper, work light rear

just use quality oil and a decent filter. Regular oil changes will go farther than synthetic anything. but if you do wanna go that route why not get those oil filter magnets too

It would be great if you guys would not make these posts personal; there really is no need for that.

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2005 Ranger XLT 2.3L 5-spd

I usually use Motorcraft filters and oil But I got some Castrol oil Free from work. High mileage. I just gotta find a parking lot to change it in.

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My Build Thread!!!

Wonder if it saves money in the long run using the $8-10 per quart synthetic. Some of them say you only need to change it at 7500-10,000 miles!

I usually use house brand Autozone or Napa oil 5w-30 with motorcraft filter. Works just fine.

I aint putting nothing expensive in there until I get my leaky crank seal replaced.

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD 2.5
168,000 miles
235/75/15