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  #1  
Old 04-21-2011, 01:48 AM
Guest Guest is offline
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Default Another over heating 2.3

Hello again,
Well this one isn't mine.
A friends '94 is over heating at higher RPM.

The truck can drive a long time without heating up, but when the speed is above 50mpg, or its pulling a hill, it over heats pretty quick.
If its standing it will idle forever and not heat up, but as soon as the rpm is raised, the temperature starts to climb.
The cooling system appears to be clean and is filled with the proper amount of coolant.

The radiator cap is new. The belt is new. The cooling system will hold 15psi for about 30 minutes, then the pressure slowly drops to 13psi over a 10 minute period and stays at pressure for over an hour. After that the pressure test was halted.
The exhaust seems to be clear, at least there's no lack of power to point towards a blocked exhaust.
The air intake was checked to make sure it wasn't directing air from the exhaust manifold into the air box.

There is no unusual pressure build up in the radiator to indicate a bad head gasket. The coolant hoses are good and appear to have been replaced not to long ago.
The fan seems to be working.
To be honest, I,m stumped.
The engine runs very well and has no obvious issues other than the over heating.

Anyone ever run across this?

Thanks for any help.
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Rangers, '95, 2.3, '98 2.5, 4x2 extra cab's, '96, 2.3 base model, '99, Mazda B3000.
  #2  
Old 04-21-2011, 11:38 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: Another over heating 2.3

Quote:
Originally Posted by Guest View Post
Hello again,
Well this one isn't mine.
A friends '94 is over heating at higher RPM.

The truck can drive a long time without heating up, but when the speed is above 50mpg, or its pulling a hill, it over heats pretty quick.
If its standing it will idle forever and not heat up, but as soon as the rpm is raised, the temperature starts to climb.
The cooling system appears to be clean and is filled with the proper amount of coolant.

The radiator cap is new. The belt is new. The cooling system will hold 15psi for about 30 minutes, then the pressure slowly drops to 13psi over a 10 minute period and stays at pressure for over an hour. After that the pressure test was halted.
The exhaust seems to be clear, at least there's no lack of power to point towards a blocked exhaust.
The air intake was checked to make sure it wasn't directing air from the exhaust manifold into the air box.

There is no unusual pressure build up in the radiator to indicate a bad head gasket. The coolant hoses are good and appear to have been replaced not to long ago.
The fan seems to be working.
To be honest, I,m stumped.
The engine runs very well and has no obvious issues other than the over heating.

Anyone ever run across this?

Thanks for any help.
how about the waterpump.......maybe the fins are all gone in it and the high rpm's just put it over the top
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
  #3  
Old 04-24-2011, 05:37 PM
one1 one1 is offline
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Default Re: Another over heating 2.3

Sounds like advanced timing.
  #4  
Old 04-25-2011, 02:27 AM
ddunfee ddunfee is offline
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Default Re: Another over heating 2.3

Bad water pump or belt
  #5  
Old 04-29-2011, 10:31 AM
Guest Guest is offline
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Default Re: Another over heating 2.3

Good ideas, I'll check the timing, but I do not recall seeing any kind of CAS, or distributor that can be adjusted. If the timing is off, how can it be corrected?

Unless the water pump impeller is made of plastic, I can't see how it would become worn to the point that it no longer circulated the coolant.

What about the fan? Has there been any problems with the thermo fans used on these engines? Any way of testing the fans?

I'm also wondering about the radiator. It looks clean, but looks can be deceiving.

Okay then, thanks for the help. Please keep your ideas coming.
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  #6  
Old 04-29-2011, 10:49 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: Another over heating 2.3

Quote:
Originally Posted by Guest View Post
Good ideas, I'll check the timing, but I do not recall seeing any kind of CAS, or distributor that can be adjusted. If the timing is off, how can it be corrected?

Unless the water pump impeller is made of plastic, I can't see how it would become worn to the point that it no longer circulated the coolant.

What about the fan? Has there been any problems with the thermo fans used on these engines? Any way of testing the fans?

I'm also wondering about the radiator. It looks clean, but looks can be deceiving.

Okay then, thanks for the help. Please keep your ideas coming.
The timing is not adjustable. Maybe he meant the belt jumped. I doubt it is that. A lot of the pump impellors are plastic. You can feel the hoses and get an idea if the pump is moving coolant. These trucks run cool. it takes a lot to over heat them. A toasted impeller might do that
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
  #7  
Old 04-29-2011, 11:16 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: Another over heating 2.3

Feel the bottom hose it should not be hot. If it is you rad or fan is not working.

----------

I just reread the thread. You probably should swap out the tstat with a motorcraft 190. Does the top hose get hot? Maybe it was stuck and it did not matter in the winter? I don't know your location
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
  #8  
Old 04-30-2011, 09:36 AM
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Default Re: Another over heating 2.3

Quote:
Originally Posted by modelageek View Post
Feel the bottom hose it should not be hot. If it is you rad or fan is not working.

----------

I just reread the thread. You probably should swap out the tstat with a motorcraft 190. Does the top hose get hot? Maybe it was stuck and it did not matter in the winter? I don't know your location
Sorry, I do need to take a few minutes and build a profile.

I guess now that the nasty winter has pasted, its safe to post my location. I'm on Maui.

For some reason, starting towards the end of January, people on the mainland were getting a little testy about my location. All it took was a slip like, I was down at the beach today waxing the car, and a half naked woman came up to me and asked what I was doing, blah blah blah.

Does using an OEM T-stat really make a difference? I know some parts really do need to be OEM, but the T-stat didn't look like it had anything special about it, or is that the problem, the OEM is not the same as after market?

Thanks
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Last edited by Guest; 04-30-2011 at 09:39 AM.
  #9  
Old 04-30-2011, 09:45 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: Another over heating 2.3

Quote:
Originally Posted by Guest View Post
Sorry, I do need to take a few minutes and build a profile.

I guess now that the nasty winter has pasted, its safe to post my location. I'm on Maui.

For some reason, starting towards the end of January, people on the mainland were getting a little testy about my location. All it took was a slip like, I was down at the beach today waxing the car, and a half naked woman came up to me and asked what I was doing, blah blah blah.

Does using an OEM T-stat really make a difference? I know some parts really do need to be OEM, but the T-stat didn't look like it had anything special about it, or is that the problem, the OEM is not the same as after market?

Thanks
I suggested you get a Motorcraft because I want you to spend more money and make it more difficult to get the part. Go buy a duralast. Cya. I got better things to do
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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).
  #10  
Old 04-30-2011, 09:56 AM
mickblock mickblock is offline
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Default Re: Another over heating 2.3

Do a hygrometer test or just be sure that the coolant is a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water.
Too much antifreeze and you don't get the cooling effect of water. Yet too little antifreeze and your water pump lacks lubrication.
I say this because it overheats when pushed. Not right away. And you say you've ruled out everything else.
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  #11  
Old 04-30-2011, 09:57 PM
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Default Re: Another over heating 2.3

Quote:
Originally Posted by mickblock View Post
Do a hygrometer test or just be sure that the coolant is a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water.
Too much antifreeze and you don't get the cooling effect of water. Yet too little antifreeze and your water pump lacks lubrication.
I say this because it overheats when pushed. Not right away. And you say you've ruled out everything else.

This has been ruled out as well, but a very good thought.

I haven't done much with the truck in the past week because to many other projects got ahead of it. Its on my mind, in that I keep running reasons what might cause this through the old thought process.

I can't recall having run across an engine that the timing couldn't be adjusted on. Judging by the timing marks on the belt cover, I have to assume the timing can be checked as with any engine, but for what purpose if it can't be adjusted?

Why would there be timing marks on and engine that the timing can't be adjusted on? Am I missing something here? Is the timing electronically adjustable?

Thanks again for all the ideas, please keep them coming.
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  #12  
Old 05-01-2011, 04:54 AM
ddunfee ddunfee is offline
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Default Re: Another over heating 2.3

Timing marks are used for other things like setting the cam timing. Cooling can be affected by a lot of things, radiator needing flushed, something blocking the air flow, modifications to the motor for a lot more power, restricted exhaust but the most common is the water pump and thermostat.

Last edited by ddunfee; 05-01-2011 at 04:58 AM.
  #13  
Old 05-01-2011, 05:19 AM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: Another over heating 2.3

Quote:
Originally Posted by Guest View Post
Unless the water pump impeller is made of plastic, I can't see how it would become worn to the point that it no longer circulated the coolant.
Its your water pump. Don't keep making it more complicated than it needs to be. Yes it is made of metal, and yes they rot out over time, and yes they become nothing more than a spinning chunk of metal that can't circulate coolant fast enough under heavy load. Happens all the time.
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Last edited by FireRanger; 05-19-2011 at 04:08 AM.
  #14  
Old 05-01-2011, 10:31 PM
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Default Re: Another over heating 2.3

Quote:
Originally Posted by FireRanger View Post
Its your water pump. Don't keep making it more complicated than it needs to be. Yes it is made of metal, and yes they rot out over time, and yes they become north more than a spinning chunk of metal that can't circulate coolant fast enough under heavy load. Happens all the time.
So, are you paying for the pump tear down if it turns out to be good?
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  #15  
Old 05-18-2011, 10:32 PM
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Default Re: Another over heating 2.3

Well the problem has been solved!
After wasting a half a day removing and inspecting the water pump at the advise of the person that said it was the water pump, it turned out to be a clogged radiator. The lower part of the radiator above the drain plug, and I assume the lower cross tubes were totally blocked. I have to admit that I can't understand what the engineers were thinking when they made the side tank with a sharp funnel like downward taper.

It took quite awhile to work out all of the rust and what not that was stuck in there.

The engine now runs nice and cool again.

Also the none working coolant sensor has been fixed. Its problem was a clogged heater core not allowing the coolant to flow. And lastly, the lean burn situation is fixed. (bad 02 sensor) If anyone runs across a code stating that the EGO is not switching, its the 02 sensor. This took some researching to find. No where is there any direct reference to the "EGO" being the 02 sensor.

Anyway, thanks to those with good advice and ideas.
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Last edited by dixie_boysles; 05-19-2011 at 07:04 AM.
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